I completely agree with you on this, hey and I dont live too far from ya, maybe you can come down to Omaha sometime and help with mine...nxt summer, lol. I dont know too much about rebuilding the motor, but I sure hope to learn all of that. The more I see like this post which is truly a learning experience the more I wanna rebuild mine, congrats on the build hope it treats you good.

 

so whats next on your mod list? and or how much did all this cost you with labor?

 

I know this isnt my thread but I will answer anyway cause I see he hasnt been posting lately.

Next on the list is the cams and tuning. Fuel pump and MBC has been installed, he is just waiting for the wedding to get over so he can have time to install and get to the dyno.

As far as cost, he posted it up somewhere in here.

Here it is. Post 40.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...3&postcount=40

I still cant believe the transformation this car has made within the first month of owning it. He has put a lot of work into it from the engine to stereo to washing and cleaning. The car is very badass. I cant wait to see it after being tuned.

 

Did you have to do any clearancing for the rods?
I'm in the same boat right now.
I bought an evo 6 months ago and a main spun on me 2 month later. I'd like to do a drop in 2.3 since the block is in great shape. but I can't get a straight answer as to machining needed for the rods to clear. I've heard no machining needed, some needed, and heavy yank the block to grind it out crap. I'm a machinist so it's not a lot of work for me to do it, but actually yanking everything out is difficult without a garage readily available.

 

wow, absolutely amazing

 

There was no machining needed is this case. Maybe with other brands of rods and pistons but not the ones he used. He did have to slightly bent the oil squirters though. Not much though, maybe 1/16" or so, they just barely hit the piston skirt.

EDIT: If you plan on doing a 2.3 do it like he explained in post 40. I dont think you can do it cheaper than that.

 

very insanely sick.

 

This post was a very pleasant suprise! This is exactly the reason this forum exists. Great job on the build. You are an asset to the Evo community and an inspiration to all of us. Congrats on the wedding also!

 

very very nice man great work!!

 

Excellent & informative write-up. Im also building a 2.3L engine and I will follow what you did to your 2.3L. Thanks and God bless you.

 

Machine crank? no. Machine balance shafts so they don't hit the bigger 2.4crank in a 4g63 block? yes.

It's stated in post 40 that he got the machine work done by so and so and I assume part of that was machining the balance shafts, unless they were left out; not recomended, but done surprisingly a lot. Jackson Auto Machine did my short block and head and I was impressed with the work and have over 10k on the motor now(stock turbo).

 

Just one quick note, because I hear this alot in the evo community, and I don't agree at all. I've rebuilt 6 DSM 4g63 motors in the last 9 years and left the balance shafts out of all of them. 2 were stock rebuild, and the other 4 were all out race builds. I've also yanked 2 other bshafts systems out of friends DSMs. Not one of those engines failed or developed an oil system issue. In fact, I've never heard of a 4G63 failure due to removal of the shafts. Removing the shafts is worth the effort if the block is out. The belts snap, taking out the tbelt, and the bearings have a nasty habit of eating themselves and seizing the shaft. You get more reliability, higher oil pressure, and less parasitic loss at the cost of minor vibration (assuming you start with a well balanced rotating assembly). It takes a load of inertia off the gears which increases the life of the system.
I know some people claim it can affect the oil pump, but that's not likely at all with this type of oil pump system. If you realy look at HOW our oil pumps work, it's essentially a series of gears and chambers in a case that creates a vaccum, sucking oil in one end, and pushing it out the other. The faster the gears spin, the more vaccum is created, and the higher oil pressure goes. It's a very simple setup. Removing the shaft will not affect the center point of those gears which is where the problem would start if it ever did. If you used a cheap poorly made stubby shaft that wasn't well balanced, then it could cause a warbling effect that would eventually wear the gears and cause failure. The stubby shafts on the market are short and they're generally, a stock shaft off a 1.6L Mirage which is balanced, and has low inertia. If it's done right, and the oil pump is in good condition already, then it will have no effect on it. Think of it like taking a pulley off an electric motor. That motor may spin faster with less inertia and mass to drive, but does it blow up?

 

very informative!!

 

I left the balance shafts out. Like colonelfox, I have built a couple 4G63's with out b shafts, and have removed them on several more. I have never had a problem with excesive vibration after removing. But I never had a chance to drive the EVO with the shafts in, and its been a long time since I've been in a DSM with balance shafts in it. So I can't really say how much difference it made to the car. But I don't have to worry about a balance shaft bearing siezing, or the belt breaking.

I gave my wife a ride in the EVO when I got it done and she remarked about how smooth it idled


tmodlin the great guy that he is gave me a gift certificate for a hour of Dyno tuning for my wedding. So I will be getting it tuned in the next week or two. I just ordered some stuff to make a lower intercooler pipe, and a filter. I will be pulling the 850cc injectors out of my Talon (it needs bigger ones anyways ).

 

You're lucky. My wife complained about the vibration and bumpiness when my evo was stock. It puts my son to sleep everytime he rides in it though.