colonelfox :
" If you used a cheap poorly made stubby shaft that wasn't well balanced, then it could cause a warbling effect that would eventually wear the gears and cause failure. The stubby shafts on the market are short and they're generally, a stock shaft off a 1.6L Mirage which is balanced, and has low inertia. If it's done right, and the oil pump is in good condition already, then it will have no effect on it."

So, do you actually eliminate the balance shafts, or just replace them with smaller ones?

 

The front shaft (attached to a pulley that is spun by a small belt to the crank) is removed completely, the one attached to the oil pump gear is replaced with the stubby shaft off a mirage.

 

awesome write up. Congrats and the sweet 2.3 liter. time for a bigger turbo

 

As of now there will be no bigger turbo.

I had a time set up to have a ECU flash at a local AWD dyno Wed the 15th, however I had to cancel it

I bought some 680 injectors and paid for them early last week from a member here intending to have them here by Wed for the dyno. However the guy I bought them from didn't actually ship them till today (even though he told me he would ship them last wed the 8th).

So once I get the injectors i will reschedule my dyno time and get you guys some numbers I can't wait to get the cams in and get a tune

 

That looks good.

 

So Luke, you gonna post the numbers and graphs?

 

enjoy the setup!

 

Alright I finally got the car to the Dyno for a tune I took it to DB Performance in Rogers MN. After 2 hours of tuning this is the end result.





This was all done on crappy 92 octane Kwik Trip gas. The dyno was a Dyno Dymanics AWD.

I was hoping for a little more Hp. But the stock turbo was struggling to keep up. As you can see in the second graph the boos would start at 22 and taper off to about 16 PSI. As the last graph shows there were also some spikes in the A/F ratio. The tuner thought this could be from the fact I still have the stock heat range plugs.

But the 2.3L showed its strength in the torque curve. All of us were supprised to see the torque over 300 ft lbs.

My mods are 2.3L engine, GSC 264/272 cams, 680cc injectors, Walbro 250 fuel pump, full 3" exhause with test pipe, home made 2.5" lower intercooler pipe, MR BOV, and Ebay air filter and maf adapter.

 

Thank you very much for sharing your 2.3L engine rebuild. I just finished my 2.3 engine rebuild which I used what Ive learned from your post. Im about to start racing the evo down the 1320. Can you tell me what should be the ideal shift RPM for the 2.3l stroked engine?

thanks again.

 

Well if your using a setup similar to mine (stock Turbo) I would run it to 7K or so and shift then. As you can see in the dyno graphs its making great power untill about 7K then it starts to taper off, so I would take advantage of it. If you have a larger turbo, your probably making power untill redline, so then I would shift as high as possible. Good luck

 

Looks good 9to9guy, but would def add a little bigger turbo.

 

Nice write up, I will look at this when I'm ready to build my 2.3L engine. Thanks

 

great write up i will def be using some of your methods when it comes time to build my car i only have 5 k on my car but i think it will come apart sooner then later i def want to stroke it & build the bottom end
i have to get away from the computer now after reading & looking at all of your picturs everythings fuzzy hah

 

excellent post!

 

Just out of curiosity, what's the highest you think you could rev on stock block evo 8 w/a good valvetrain upgrade (cams, valvesprings, retainers)?