Well,

this is my story. Quick and simpple. I installed my rear pads and did lube the shims. I did not lube the bottom of the pad where it contacts the caliper. I did not test drive it yet but I am wondering if I need to do this before the test drive.

Note: my rear pads wore out before the front. The fronts do not have much left but I will be them next week. I have new rotors fro the front and was wondering if the rotors will come off easy after I take the caliper off.

I got to Rotora slotted rotors and Feroda 2500 pads front and back. I could not get the rotors off the car when I had the caliper off the rear brakes. The emergency brake was off. Do I need to put it on to get them off?

I have not done brakes in about 10 years. I had a 1996 Eclipse GSX and my friends always did my brakes fro free. All I did was buy the parts and go to the shop just before closing time.

It is nice to have friends that will hook mu up like that. The only drawback is that the place is 40 miles away.

-E

 

I have no experience of changing brake pads before and i have no tools to do the job now. Would you guy recommend it that i change my own brake pad on my MR?

and 1 more suggestion.

I am planning to get my own tools. can you post pictures to the required equipments for the brake job? I totally have no idea of what these tools look like except for the jack and hammer. Thanks

(1) Jack and stands, of course one should never use the factory jack to support the car.
(2) Philips screwdriver.
(3) Needle nose pliers
(4) Ultra high temperature Copper Anti-Seize compound (eg. Permatex Cu lubricant http://www.permatex.com/products/pr...m&item_no=09128)
(5) High temp copper silicone
(6) Brake cleaner & shop towels.
(7) Hammer.

 

FWIW, I found that I was able to push the caliper pistons in on the front calipers by just pulling the pads out about 1/4 of the way and then using them as a lever!

By pulling away from the rotor at the top (gripping the edge of the pad with my fingers), with the bottom of the pad against the rotor, they were able to push the pistons in with some good muscle alone!

 

here's what I used for the fronts (see above as well)

floor jack
21mm lug nut remover/spinner
21mm socket and torque wrench for reinstall
nail-set (to poke the pad retainer pins loose)
rubber mallet (to hit above nail set)
anti-squeel grease
fingers (attached to hand so ever present)

didn't need anything else to change the front pads!

did use some cleaning solutions for cleaning everything up though.

 

Any way to get these pictures back? None of them load for me.

 

For those who want a bit more help, it's from the people on the other side, but by watching the video it looks like it's the exact same process.

http://videos.hspn.com/?videoid=44

 

A couple of things regarding this:

One, crack your bleeders and use the old bad for leverage to push the pistons back. Put a catch can/hose on the bleeder, or it will geyser up everywhere. This is a lot easier than A) doing it with the bleeder closed and B) doing it by hand alone.

Two, I could not find the copper high temp lube and silicone anywhere. Pep Boys and Advance near me did not have it. Anybody else know where this is available? Both places had brake lubricant from Permatex, but not the one listed in this thread.

Thanks,
AC

 

Hi folks,

Its heart-warming to see that my how-to post has been so well used. A lot of you have contributed new ideas / ways of doing things with regards to this pad change thing. You all have taken it to another level I must appologize for the lack of the pictures in the orignal post. My server went down and they were lost. Stupidly, I did not have a back-up.

A lot has happened since then (including a blown engine), and I have not been on evom.net much, however I hope to redo the pictures when I can get hold of a digital camera (yes that died too -- i have some ****ty luck). Last weekend, I got a new pair of DBA slotted rotors from Z1Auto (you rock Adam!) and some hawk HPS pads so I will have a chance to re-do the how-to. Of note, this time around I am not using the copper anti-seize anymore, as I have found it not to last as long behind the pads as I would like. Often on a subsequent pad change, I would not see any copper anti-seize left. So I have chosen on this install, to use the Nickel Antiseize ( http://www.permatex.com/products/aut..._Lubricant.htm ) as it has a more solid consistency (and higher temperature rating - 2400*F). I am hoping it will last longer. I will need it as these hawk pads do tend to squeal every now and then.

Regards,
Jemm

 

Good vid, I notice he says to bleed the inside nipple first, in all the Evo service manuals (V-IX) it says to bleed the outside nipple first, then the inside. It seems to be a mistake on his part :
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=568920

 

Thanks for the writeup Jemm. The locations for the grease points was particularly helpful to me! I wonder now if using Hi-Temp RTV Silicone Gasket Sealant would be better than grease.

I'd like to add what I've found to help me when working on multi-piston calipers. For the front pistons I've found the best way to push them in has been to use actual pry bars similar to these (I just got a cheap-*** generic set from an autozone discount bin for about $10, they work fine). With the curved pry bars you can push the pistons in flush with the caliper body without danger of pushing them in too far. They are also the most useful tools in the world if you ever need to drop your Evo's transmission!

Two of them with the curved tips against the rotor and the flat bar against the pistons will easily push them both in at the same time. Just please remember to only work on one pad at a time and leave the other pad in place or the opposing pistons will pop out of the caliper body.

Also, an actual pin-punch for the pins isn't a bad idea either (instead of trying to use a screwdriver for this purpose). I inadverntaly got some punches with a cheap chisel set once and the punch tools never came in handy until now.

And someone mentioned not having tools? Please don't take off your wheels unless you can have the lug nuts properly torqued afterwards! If you tighten the lug nuts without a torque wrench you can stretch the studs, crack the wheels, or warp your rotors from uneven torque. Worse they can come loose while you are driving. You don't want that.

Someone else mentioned that their rear pads wore out first. My stock Brembo pads did the same thing. I've had seven cars of my own and did matinance on many others for family and friends. This is the first car I've ever known to use up the rear pads before the fronts. I pointed out to my wife last summer that was happening and that it was odd. She remarked that sliding the car sidways around corners and through curves was also odd and so what did I expect. Now I can tell her it isn't just me.

 

quick question; anyone had luck with the permatex nickel antiseize or the permatex ultra disc brake caliper synth lube for track applications? I was considering using the nickel antiseize between the shim & pad(ds2500/ds3000), then caliper lube at all other friction points. any other suggested lubes or input from track junkies appreciated.

 

I also couldn't find copper anti-seize compound in an auto parts store. I finally ordered it from MSC Direct. They don't carry Permatex, but they have the Loctite equivalents. The copper kind is Loctite C5-A:
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT...MT4NO=18059821
They also have the nickel-based kind:
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT...MT4NO=18059821

Next, someone mentioned rotors that won't come off. If this happens, go get yourself two M8x1.25x20 metric bolts like these:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...mId=1613616500
Once the wheels are off you'll see two threaded holes in the rotors with nothing in them. Give them a shot of WD-40 since they'll probably be rusty, then thread the bolts into them. Once the bolts get snuck, tighten one 1/4 turn, then tighten the other 1/4 turn, and keep alternating them. The ends of the bolts push against the wheel hub and will press the rotor loose. It may make quite a bang when it finally comes off. If you're changing the rear rotors don't forget to reuse the little rubber plug and install the rotors in the same orientation as the old ones.

Finally, this is a dirty job. This time I got smart enough to take the car to the car wash before I started. It was well worth the trip. :-)

 

A faster and more easy way to remove seized rotors is with an impact hammer. If you already have some air tools, a cheap air hammer a worthwhile investment.

 

I just did all 4 wheels. Pads and rotors. Thanks to all for your helpful posts. Unfortunately, I now have major squeal even with the copper anti-sieze lube on the pads and shims, and copper RTV on the pad retainer.

I stuck my hand in between the spokes and I noticed I could wiggle the shims around a little. It seems to me that "glueing" the shim to the pad with the RTV might be more effecive to eliminate squealing. Of course, harder to remove shim for next time...

Maybe I just didn't use enough of the anti-sieze? I used a thin coating. Also, I did not put any on the pins. Do they need it?

The EBC Green pads I used had a rubbery pad on the back of each brake pad . I don't see how that could hurt, but wanted to mention it.

Anyone with suggestions?

 

Oh, and does anyone know the part number(s) for the shims? Just in case...

And are there any other points that need lubrication?

Thanks again.