I don't know what the part # is but you should be able to just ask for a shim set for the front and/or back at the parts desk. It's probably not a stock item so maybe you want to call first.

I also had squealing on my brakes after installing new Hawk pads. At first it was all the time, then after the first week or two it was whenever they were cold, but after a few thousand miles it's pretty much gone away all on it's own. I think after the first couple thousand miles, brake dust maybe starts to build up in any small crevices and limits the pads ability to vibrate.

Also, I don't think greasing the pins is a good idea. You need them to stay put, not wiggle themselves free. You only want grease on the back and sides of the backing plate of the pad. If you get any grease on the top or bottom of the backing plate it won't hurt but it's not something you specifically want to grease. Other than that, if there is grease on anything else, you'll want to clean it off before installing the pads.

 

good write up

 

hawk pads suck.

 

For those of you having problems finding the copper anti seize check Napa. I checked everywhere and ended up finding it at Napa with a Napa logo on the container.

 

What happened to the pictures, I can't see them.

 

I just got done reading all the posts on this topic! I love it i have to change all 4 rotors and pads and maybe a caliper and i think i have a good idea of what to do and i only have a few questions about the rotors! Can i change the rotors as easy as the pads? Do they need to be balanced or something? and is there anything that i should know? Thanks

 

The rotors aren't difficult to remove... or shouldn't be. Just unbolt the caliper body from the hub and pull it out of the way. The rotor should just pull off unless it's seized to the hub. If that's the case you can use an impact hammer on the rotor hat to loosen it or if you don't have an impact hammer available try two M8x1.25x20 metric bolts as mentioned it Steveco's post above.

It might not hurt to apply a little anti-seize grease to the hub face before installing new rotors to help avoid them sticking in the future. That sort of sticking is caused by prolonged contact between two dissimilar metals in a corrosive environment so a little anti-seize between the two metals will prevent it reoccurring.

 

Alright, good stuff here, i started unbolting the calipers like you would on a honda, but that was definitley not the way to go as i see in your tutorial. Thanks, installed new ceramic pads with your instructions and they're awesome, probably not as good as stock pads bite, but still good.

 

I'm about to change my stock rotors for Rotora slotted ones and Ferodo DS2500 pads.

Two questions i have left after reading through the topic,
Is it nessecary to re-instal the Retaining clip? imo they block a lot of air from passing through the front of the calipers wich could be helping cooling the rotors? or is it somehow dangerous to leave them out?

Secondly how much more work is it when replacing the rotors to take off the backing plate (for better cooling again) on a EVO VIII and what could be the possible downside?

thanks in advance

 

The backing plate comes right off with a few small bolts if I remember correctly. I have heard you can melt the abs sensor with it off so I coated mine in high temp silicone and wire tied the wire going to it out of the way. The retaining clip I don't know about but assuming you mean the thing that puts pressure on the two pins let's just say I am not removing mine anytime soon in the hopes that Brembo simply put it there because they felt like adding extra parts to their calipers.

 

The retaining clip is necessary to hold the pads in the proper position, change your pads once and you'll see what I mean. The pins hold them in the roughly right place but they can still move around a little, while the retaining clips push them down into position. I imagine you COULD drive without them, but I don't know why you would want to... I never once had issues with heating in my Evo, and I had race pads and slicks heading into tight corners at 120 mph for 30 min at a time in 100* weather... My rotors got bright orange for sure even smoked a few times, but never had issues cracking, warping or losing pedal pressure.

The backing plate comes off pretty easy, and like the post above me says you have to make sure you do something with your ABS sensor, but like I said, unless you're doing enduro events you shouldn't run into significant enough heat problems to have to remove things like that. But maybe I just got lucky and never really had issues. Changed the brake fluid after every HPDE day. The DS2500s won't be able to get the rotors hot enough to matter anyway. I was using Hawk DTC70s, pads that after 5 track days of hard stopping didn't even look used, and my 70 dollar a piece OEM replacement rotors (think Costco rotor shopping) never had issues after many many more track days.

So unless you're doing something hardcore, which I doubt with DS2500s, neither is really worth it IMO. Race pads and high-heat brake fluid and the Evo can out brake almost anything. First thing I would do is build some custom brake ducting.

 

Thanks for the replies.

I was just wondering because it did wonders removing that retainer clip (apart from some minor pad rattling noise) and the backplates on my old Alfa Milano turbo and a Alfa Romeo 147 cupracer i used to work on and wich had braking problems due to overheating. But you are probably right that it's not necessary on the EVO.

I have already had some ideas spring to mind about some home made brake ducting.

 

Yeah, trust me, the Evo is God of braking... Its how I got around a stock C6 Z06 when I just had my R compounds on... High friction race pads, 3300 lb Evo outbrakes fiberglass Vette...

 

Not a bad write up, just a few points I found helpful:

Don't use a screwdriver to knock the pins out! The pins come to a point (at least in the back) and it's easy to slip off and crack the clearcoat of your calipers. A small drill bit works great. Use the flat bottom to knock it out safely.

If you don't have a proper piston spreader, which can be pricey, try 2 C-clamps. You'll want to use a towel on the painted side of the caliper to protect the paint, but it's a very effortless process that doesn't involve messing with the brake fluid. For the fronts, keep the pad in the caliper and use that to press the 2 pistons at once.

No offense to anyone who can do it well, but using a screwdriver or a prybar to push back the pistons sounds dumb. The paint is coming off my calipers just fine without my help.

Third, I found that the best way to reinstall the pad retainer on top is to start one pin (the bottom one worked better for me) and push it all the way through both pads and back in the starting position. Start the second pin through the back pad to secure it, then slide one end of the retaining clip under and hold the other end with your finger while you work the pin over it and through the remaining pad.

 

j/w do you need to apply the copper antiseize?