Anyone not happy with their AEM EMS?
Originally Posted by IndyPhil
Silver who did your tuning. I am sick of the 0300 errors and am considering having AMS do a AEM on my car. I was wondering if in the colder months could you send data to AMS on the start and they tell you what to change to get start up better.
I'm now getting the 0300 errors as well and I don't like it one bit. Still, if the car will start and run reasonably well, I'll put up with it and try to find a solution. The AEM is a great unit for extracting tons of power from an engine but it does it at a price. If you are bothered by a car that does not run smooth like stock, the AEM is not for you. YMMV, but my experience with it was not good because I do not know how to tune a car and I don't have time, tools or inclination to screw around with it. OTOH, most if not all the really fast and powerful EVOs are running the AEM EMS or similar stand alone ems.
Meta,
I am the one who tuned the car, well the second time, the first guy blew you engine
The cold start does need worked on when the car is cold to get it right. I probably have enough new information though to fix your car if you just e-mail me the current map you have.
Let me know if you want to do something.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
I am the one who tuned the car, well the second time, the first guy blew you engine
The cold start does need worked on when the car is cold to get it right. I probably have enough new information though to fix your car if you just e-mail me the current map you have. Let me know if you want to do something.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
I just wanted to address a few issues discussed in this thread.
-Cold Start
Raise the value in the Warm Up Enrichment Table until there are no more cold start problems. Also, make sure the O2 Feedback Min Coolant Temp is set to 120-140 so the O2 Feedback doesn't kick in too early and lean things out when the motor is still cold. With the Warm Up Enrichment Table set appropriately high, the AFR should be in the low 12s at idle when cold, then lean out from there until it is fully warmed up. Also, use the Coolant Retard Table to stabilize the idle when cold. Try 0 correction from 140F+ and -15 degrees at -40 coolant temp with a straight line from there to 140.
-Tach "sticking"
LS7 ALT is incorrectly turned ON, turn it OFF
-Inconsistency in changing weather conditions
Use O2 Feedback... There are also trims for Barometric pressure and air temp
-Cold Start
Raise the value in the Warm Up Enrichment Table until there are no more cold start problems. Also, make sure the O2 Feedback Min Coolant Temp is set to 120-140 so the O2 Feedback doesn't kick in too early and lean things out when the motor is still cold. With the Warm Up Enrichment Table set appropriately high, the AFR should be in the low 12s at idle when cold, then lean out from there until it is fully warmed up. Also, use the Coolant Retard Table to stabilize the idle when cold. Try 0 correction from 140F+ and -15 degrees at -40 coolant temp with a straight line from there to 140.
-Tach "sticking"
LS7 ALT is incorrectly turned ON, turn it OFF
-Inconsistency in changing weather conditions
Use O2 Feedback... There are also trims for Barometric pressure and air temp
Originally Posted by DynoFlash
My tach needle sticks a bit and its not a big deal - it does not effect the ecu operation in any way. Hopefully they will resolve that but its a minor annoyance.
Go into options / configure outputs ..
Pull up LS7
and disable it .. This will get rid of your " sticky tach " problem
mark
turbotrix
Originally Posted by silverEVO8
Dude, you are lucky. The butthole who "tuned" my car is on the run and has disappeared. Apparently with lots of ppls money and stuff. Therefore you are not likely to get victimized by him like I did......
I'm now getting the 0300 errors as well and I don't like it one bit. Still, if the car will start and run reasonably well, I'll put up with it and try to find a solution. The AEM is a great unit for extracting tons of power from an engine but it does it at a price. If you are bothered by a car that does not run smooth like stock, the AEM is not for you. YMMV, but my experience with it was not good because I do not know how to tune a car and I don't have time, tools or inclination to screw around with it. OTOH, most if not all the really fast and powerful EVOs are running the AEM EMS or similar stand alone ems.
I'm now getting the 0300 errors as well and I don't like it one bit. Still, if the car will start and run reasonably well, I'll put up with it and try to find a solution. The AEM is a great unit for extracting tons of power from an engine but it does it at a price. If you are bothered by a car that does not run smooth like stock, the AEM is not for you. YMMV, but my experience with it was not good because I do not know how to tune a car and I don't have time, tools or inclination to screw around with it. OTOH, most if not all the really fast and powerful EVOs are running the AEM EMS or similar stand alone ems.
Jason.
Originally Posted by groovytang
plain and simple, AEM is for people who have high stage cars, and are eager to accept some driveability issues for tuning with this standalone
its not for for people with bpu
its not for for people with bpu
Originally Posted by Pruven
I could name a few..
Dan
Dan
Dan
I just drove an AEM equipped honda S2000 that has the Vortech kit on it and I thought it was smoth as silk. I drove it in traffic and on the highway and the car ran fine. The best part about it was when we got to the dyno the car put down 257whp and then my buddy went to work on the AEM and the car made 308whp within 4-5 pulls and under an hour. I think "my" Evo will run better with the AEM then it does with the current Dynoflash that is in the car.
Should run at least as good as stock, usually better with AEM EMS properly tuned. Especially EVOs that have big cams and crazy intake manifolds with weird throttlebodies and oddball stuff. They work far better with the AEM EMS than they would trying to retain the ECU.
On a bone stock EVO, the AEM EMS drivability isn't totally perfect, although I don't recommend it for bone stock EVOs to begin with. In fact I only recommend it under very specific circumstances or unless the owner is willing to learn how to tune it themself after the initial setup and professional tune.
The primary disadvantage with the EMS is smog compliance. I tune most cars for improved gas mileage, and that usually makes the smog emissions worse, although the car will get 30+ MPG on the freeway.
On a bone stock EVO, the AEM EMS drivability isn't totally perfect, although I don't recommend it for bone stock EVOs to begin with. In fact I only recommend it under very specific circumstances or unless the owner is willing to learn how to tune it themself after the initial setup and professional tune.
The primary disadvantage with the EMS is smog compliance. I tune most cars for improved gas mileage, and that usually makes the smog emissions worse, although the car will get 30+ MPG on the freeway.


