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Old Mar 10, 2006 | 07:55 AM
  #1  
VIIImylunch's Avatar
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From: utah
timing map

Does anyone have a timing map with the HKS 280s on the stock turbo? I am not going to use it I just want to look at it.

Thanks
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Old May 9, 2006 | 01:54 PM
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From: Reno
brought this back because I really need some help tuning my timing.
Here are a few direct questions:
1. What should timing be at idle?
2. What about peak torque on 91 oct.?
3. At peak boost (21 psi) what should my timing do from say 3500 rpms to 8000 rpms?
4. What is the best way to get quick spool?
5. What EGT's are acceptable?

Some one really needs to write a guide to tuning timing. I have an EGT sensor, I've logged knock, which I see none of. How do I know how far to push it?

P.S. I know there are no for sure answers, but any info is helpful.

Last edited by nutrulz; May 10, 2006 at 10:55 AM.
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Old May 10, 2006 | 09:51 AM
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From: Reno
Any answers?
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Old May 10, 2006 | 10:26 AM
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I have heard of instances in which people blow their engines without the proper tuning on this stand alone and any stand alone. I am far from being a tuner. That is why I pay good money to have my car tuned correctly. Not trying to flame you too hard, but if you can afford the stand alone system, then afford a proper tune. You would want to put your car on a dyno to take advantage of this stand alone system. My tuner had my car tuned and running great within 6 pulls or so, with only and hour or so time. $125.00 has given me piece of mind. If your tuner is cool, he can show you how he tuned it. Anytime I have trouble shoooting, he hooks it up (which is rare that I have any problem, just a cold start issue in the beginning).

Bottom line, protect your investment, get your car tuned by a professional.
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Old May 10, 2006 | 10:47 AM
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And also, sorry, did not want to sound rude. There are some good guys on the board that can give you specific pointers to trouble shoot after your tune, but it still sounds like you need a full tune.
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Old May 10, 2006 | 11:00 AM
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I didn't buy a stand alone to have someone else tune it. I already have a flash. I want to learn to tune. This is a learing process. So I flame you back, don't post if you have no information to give. There are some very straight forward questions that I asked. If you don't have answers don't waste peoples time.
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Old May 10, 2006 | 11:17 AM
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Im not wasting my time, and unfortunately you think im wasting your time. I will be the one laughing if you blow your engine. I personally would not want to "learn to tune" without going to a class provided by AEM for this stand alone. I dont get into problems with people on this site, and I did not say anything rude to you. I personally dont understand why you have a flash, but also have a stand alone. What is the point in that. If it is useful, please indulge me because I might have to take advantage of what you are referring to. I am here to learn as you are. But a stand alone is for the purpose of doing away with the flash. Right???
Good luck man, and dont get so butt hurt!
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Old May 21, 2006 | 12:39 AM
  #8  
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From: Winona, MN
Originally Posted by nutrulz
brought this back because I really need some help tuning my timing.
Here are a few direct questions:
1. What should timing be at idle?
2. What about peak torque on 91 oct.?
3. At peak boost (21 psi) what should my timing do from say 3500 rpms to 8000 rpms?
4. What is the best way to get quick spool?
5. What EGT's are acceptable?

Some one really needs to write a guide to tuning timing. I have an EGT sensor, I've logged knock, which I see none of. How do I know how far to push it?

P.S. I know there are no for sure answers, but any info is helpful.
1. I idle mine around 16 degrees or timing (plus or minus 5 degrees to keep the idle smooth).

2. I dont use 91 octane but with 93 I get away with 13 degrees... Im sure I could push more if I tried but this is safe enough for my car. Some cars can only push 5 degrees.

3. From peak TQ I run around 13 degrees and taper it up slightly the higher the RPM goes (A few degrees higher at 8k).

4. Anti-Lag (negative timing, lotsa gas).

5. I dont bother looking at my EGT much but on a full 1-2-3-4 gear pulls to 8.3k each gear I will see mid to high 800's Celsius on 110 octane. I dont do full 1-2-3-4 gear pulls on pump... I never had a reason to.

Hope this helps you some. I would recommend bringing your car to a tuner to have an initial tune. You can tweak it from there but at least it will give you a safe starting point.

To figure out how far you can push it is a combination of a few things. One, learning how the knock sensor reacts with your car. Learn what voltages are acceptable and what is real knock. Once you know that you will know if the car is knocking. Two, experience. Not that I have a ton but I have learned enough to make a car reasonably powerful and not blow it yet. You will learn what seems to be reasonable and what seems to be too much. A dyno would also help to see if what you are changing is worth losing the extra safety margin.

Good luck
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