Cold start and E85 calibration!
Just found out that my turbo is only using enough corn that I can downsize to 1000cc injectors.
It makes big torque, but falls off over 6,000rpm, so I'll probably try tonight to make some progress. Should make idling a bit easier now.
Thanks for the detailed writeup!
Dave
Thanks for the detailed writeup!
Dave
^^yeah I have 1600cc's in my car right now, it took me a good amount of time to dial in the part throttle loads, still fine tuning the part throttle right now but so far so good. As soon as I get a decent start up cal, idle ect I will post up what I have for 1600cc's and E85.
The 1000cc's are 10x's easier to tune though. And the 1000cc's work very well with o2 feedback while as the 1600cc's don't like to run off of o2 feedback for part throttle conditions.
The 1000cc's are 10x's easier to tune though. And the 1000cc's work very well with o2 feedback while as the 1600cc's don't like to run off of o2 feedback for part throttle conditions.
Now comes the key, go into advanced fuel > fuel trims > boost fuel correct table. Set it to 0 at 0 psi, -75% at -14psig, then 150% at 14psi and calculate a line from there. These values are way off and grossly conservative, you're going to end up leaning out it out in vacuum a lot more and decreasing the values under boost quite a bit, this is just to be safe so you don't blame me when you blow your headgasket

There are a couple advantages using this method, for one you get extremely high resolution even at very low loads. The other big advantage I've found is speed. Once you get the afr dialed in at a low boost, say 14lbs, you simply go up to the next load cell and change the precent in boost comp until you are at the same afr you had at 14psi. After that you can calculate the same line all the way up in load. For the most part your fuel will be dialed in at any load point now with far less work. The other nice thing about going that route is that you don't have to make as many pulls at high boost to dial your fuel and so all you have to work on later when the car is at higher boost is your timing map.
Try using boost comp instead doing all of your tuning in the main fuel map. What I do is go out and make pulls at around 0psi across the whole rpm range and get that load point tuned as close to a static afr as possible. Once that is done I will set the entire fuel map to that value, on every load point. I then low the microsec/bit number until my raw numbers are in the low 200s.
Now comes the key, go into advanced fuel > fuel trims > boost fuel correct table. Set it to 0 at 0 psi, -75% at -14psig, then 150% at 14psi and calculate a line from there. These values are way off and grossly conservative, you're going to end up leaning out it out in vacuum a lot more and decreasing the values under boost quite a bit, this is just to be safe so you don't blame me when you blow your headgasket
There are a couple advantages using this method, for one you get extremely high resolution even at very low loads. The other big advantage I've found is speed. Once you get the afr dialed in at a low boost, say 14lbs, you simply go up to the next load cell and change the precent in boost comp until you are at the same afr you had at 14psi. After that you can calculate the same line all the way up in load. For the most part your fuel will be dialed in at any load point now with far less work. The other nice thing about going that route is that you don't have to make as many pulls at high boost to dial your fuel and so all you have to work on later when the car is at higher boost is your timing map.
Now comes the key, go into advanced fuel > fuel trims > boost fuel correct table. Set it to 0 at 0 psi, -75% at -14psig, then 150% at 14psi and calculate a line from there. These values are way off and grossly conservative, you're going to end up leaning out it out in vacuum a lot more and decreasing the values under boost quite a bit, this is just to be safe so you don't blame me when you blow your headgasket

There are a couple advantages using this method, for one you get extremely high resolution even at very low loads. The other big advantage I've found is speed. Once you get the afr dialed in at a low boost, say 14lbs, you simply go up to the next load cell and change the precent in boost comp until you are at the same afr you had at 14psi. After that you can calculate the same line all the way up in load. For the most part your fuel will be dialed in at any load point now with far less work. The other nice thing about going that route is that you don't have to make as many pulls at high boost to dial your fuel and so all you have to work on later when the car is at higher boost is your timing map.
Nick are you still using full boost comp? Or are you doing boost comp/hybrid? I tune using boost comp/hybrid, much easier to dial in part throttle loads in boost and vacuum and spool up loads rather then having a consistent flat AFR during spool. My spool on my car starts at 13.7 at 0 boost, then at 10lbs it's 13.0AFR, 15lbs is 12.7, then full boost at 22lbs is at 11.9-12.0
With just a full on boost comp map with large 1600cc injectors for example it's hard to dial in AFR coming onto boost, so the hybrid map is well worth the effort and makes like allot easier.
Using the hybrid style map works much better for the part throttle boost loads when passing someone on the highway/freeway and going through the gears driving around town.
Here is an example of a boost comp/hybrid map (I'm sure you know what these look like but for other people that don't understand what a hybrid map looks like). This was on a customers 1g with the smaller gt4294r using PTE 1600cc injectors.
fuel map in RAW view

and fuel map in Duty cycle view

Hi Jake, I had just been doing the regular old boost comp from what I remember, but it's been over three years now since I tuned an AEM. I might have made some minor changes on really low load/low rpm cells on the eclipse, but it was too long ago for me to even remember now 
The hybrid method sounds like a good plan, I had been thinking about trying something similar on the 35r hta evo I'm just wrapping up. He already had meth with a progressive controller on the car before the aem, I was planning on wiring up the meth to turn on with a switch that would turn the aem to high boost and kick on the nos map, then making the changes to the nos fuel map to lean it out as the meth comes on for a smooth transisition and even AFR.
I'll probably try playing around with the main fuel map too, it sounds like a good plan.

The hybrid method sounds like a good plan, I had been thinking about trying something similar on the 35r hta evo I'm just wrapping up. He already had meth with a progressive controller on the car before the aem, I was planning on wiring up the meth to turn on with a switch that would turn the aem to high boost and kick on the nos map, then making the changes to the nos fuel map to lean it out as the meth comes on for a smooth transisition and even AFR.
I'll probably try playing around with the main fuel map too, it sounds like a good plan.
I am having a really hard time dialing in the cold start on the 1600cc,
The settings you posted above worked fine for aprox 77 fahrenheit coolant temperature and above but it has been impossible for me to calibrate for around 50 coolant temperature.
I have tweaked the Initial crank pulse table but I just cant seem to get it to work.
Any ideas ?

regards
Gudmundur
Did you ever get a decent startup and idle cal for the 1600cc ?
I am having a really hard time dialing in the cold start on the 1600cc,
The settings you posted above worked fine for aprox 77 fahrenheit coolant temperature and above but it has been impossible for me to calibrate for around 50 coolant temperature.
I have tweaked the Initial crank pulse table but I just cant seem to get it to work.
Any ideas ?
regards
Gudmundur
I am having a really hard time dialing in the cold start on the 1600cc,
The settings you posted above worked fine for aprox 77 fahrenheit coolant temperature and above but it has been impossible for me to calibrate for around 50 coolant temperature.
I have tweaked the Initial crank pulse table but I just cant seem to get it to work.
Any ideas ?

regards
Gudmundur
Yes I have, I will have to post the settings later on tonight or tomorrow.
I do gotta say though, when using my settings for cold start, you have to have the same amount of fueling in the fuel map below 1000rpm on the main fuel map, that also has a big impact how the car starts and stays running, any changes to the main fuel map then start up changes a bit. I will post the 1st half of the block of fueling on my fuel map up towards 1000rpm or so.
I want to try and make a mini tank for regular gasoline that has a solenoid to shut off the e85 and open up to the petrol for cold starts.. Probably would be a major project though. Maybe I could have a bung or four on the intake manifold that shoots some gas in for the start-up, similar to a nitrous sytem. Anyone heard of this?
I am running 1600's on a 2.3/280 cams/head/turbo with a constant diet of e85. You can get the car to idle with them and start right up but your not having enough fuel on your map on the lowest vacuum areas. I have that part really high an then it drops back down. It really makes a difference to have the lower area -9 vaccuum higher than the rest of the map and then taper it. That + initial crank pulse table and warm up enrichment table have let to a car that starts every time and stable idle. I even got the ac to work stable idle during warm up using this method. (boost comp based map btw)
Here are some pics of what I am talking about. See the extra fuel on the bottom of the map for idle:

Here is another shot from above:

Finally, here is my injector pulse table:

This works. The car starts up every time, idles and warms up well with 1600cc injectors(RC) on e85, regardless of temp. I found adding a lot of fuel for cold start and idle is the underlying issue. I am going on 2.5 years now on e85 exclusively.
FYI, fuel map shots are "raw" mode. I also flow a lot more on top than most people so disregard the shape unless you have similar mods...
list of mods and pics: http://www.mccomsey.net/evo

Here is another shot from above:

Finally, here is my injector pulse table:

This works. The car starts up every time, idles and warms up well with 1600cc injectors(RC) on e85, regardless of temp. I found adding a lot of fuel for cold start and idle is the underlying issue. I am going on 2.5 years now on e85 exclusively.
FYI, fuel map shots are "raw" mode. I also flow a lot more on top than most people so disregard the shape unless you have similar mods...
list of mods and pics: http://www.mccomsey.net/evo
Last edited by gt40; Aug 2, 2009 at 09:06 PM.


