rodent

iTrader: (35)

Awhile back I made a simple super bright LED and wired into my AEM for a shift light function.

Here's a picture of the LED alone when it was on top of my old boost controller with the wires and connectors heat shrinked together. Kind of ugly but it worked for its purpose.


Today I decided to give it a better look and purchased some 1/4" alum tubing at the hardware store. I fabbed up a simple alum. bracket and painted it black. I think I have less than 5 bucks in materials including the LED.




Its pretty bright!

PaEvo

iTrader: (3)

well, as my fiance would say, it looks kinda ghetto. but if it works, it works. and if you like it, than screw anyone who gives you grief!!!

it does work right?

japanesemonster

iTrader: (1)

wow

DJAfterShok

iTrader: (2)

I've done something similar in my Civic a longgggg time ago while i was running Hondata S300 on my boosted B series...

I went to radio shack and bought 3 Diff LED's(Red, Blinking red and Orange). The Red LED was used as a Shift light, Orange was set for water temp and the blinking red LED was used for falling oil pressure. Cost about 15 bucks to get everything put together but It was worth it.


I'm sure if you took the time to do it, you should hit that little sucker somewere!

rodent

iTrader: (35)

I'd rather not hide the shift light. I tried to put it up high in my pillar pod but it was hard to see with the helmet.

Here's some more info. I stole the pictures from Hsun (EGbeater) who did something similar on his factory ECU. His is for knock light and not a shift light but the same principle applies.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ec...t-flash-2.html

Note that my choice of location for my LEDs was ditated by a desire to see them easily from all conceivable driver's head positions (altho I aimed the LEDs right at my retinas, for my driving position/height), and my preference not to put any holes in any interior surface. Those areas at the corners of the instrument cluster are almost always in shadow from the overhang of the dash too, which adds contrast and makes it even more impossible to miss those LEDs coming on.

See those little gaps?





After:





Supercloseups:





About $3 of parts @ JB Saunders in Boulder, including 16' of 22-gauge stranded speaker wire (not shown), of which I only used about 4 feet of. I used a 1/4 watt resistor (most people say to use a 1/2 watt, but 1/4 watt is fine too) with about a 500 ohm rating... I bought two values, was going to go with the one that looked brighter, but I couldn't tell the difference):



Where the ECU wiring is on an Evo (under/behind the glovebox):



The wire the ground side of the LED goes to:





Just used a 3M scotchlock to tap the wire... I know lots of people hate on using these, and think soldering makes a better connection, but my personal experience from many years of working at a car stereo store says they're totally reliable, if you crimp it on properly/securely:



This is the switched 12+ ignition source (black w white stripe) under the steering column:



My less-than-pretty soldering/heatshrinking work:





Done:



In a dark garage:







Outside (pic doesn't look that impressive, but trust me, it's really bright... you can't miss them):


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