awd please
man that sucks, well for starters, find a new tranny, depending on who did the tranny, there may or may not be a few parts missing which pertain to the AWD set-up, i know for fact that Jon @TRE curves the cost of the set-up to me by retaining those parts for himself when the pass is made from AWD to FWD...So i would honestely just search for a new tranny, but giving Jon a call wouldnt hurt either just to see what replacement parts would cost along with a rebuild, but i think buying a new Center-Diff alone is gonna make it almost worthwhile to buy a new trans, other than that, jack your car up and snap some photos, i'm willing to bet that your driveshaft is missing, and the propshaft comming off the t-case has been removed and patched closed meaning that you may be looking for a t-case as well, take some photos of the underside, maybe a few from under the rear bumper looking towards the front of the car, but if you could jack the car up or back it onto some ramps that would be better...but from there we should be able to tell you exactly what you'll need, so far i would say Tranny for sure, and probably a T-case and Driveshaft, no1 would have any reason to remove the rear diff and axles, i'm sure its back there just free-spinning
-Adam
-Adam
Evolved Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,815
Likes: 24
From: Davidson, NC
I hope you got it super cheap because I have a feeling that it isn't going to be cheap to get back into proper shape. If the scumbag that sold you the car didn't bother to mention all of the driveline issues the car has there is no telling what other little stuff you are going to find. Everything you are mentioning points to a life of abuse before you got it.
Good luck bro.
Good luck bro.
Your center diff in your trans might still be ok. It is alot stronger than the center diffs in the 1g/2g. The V.C. in an Evo is also alot stronger and will not slip near as much with one end of the drivetrain free as a 1g/2g will. It really depends on how much the front wheels have been spun in relation to the rears (aka burnouts). The only good thing about the situation is at least your ring and pinion in the tcase won't be damaged, which is one of the real weak spots on an Evo.
The Evo driveshaft has three pieces. Are you just missing the last piece at the rear?
The Evo driveshaft has three pieces. Are you just missing the last piece at the rear?
good luck tho.. im sure you'll figure something out eventually... 
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: alamogordo,NM
Originally Posted by gsnt
Your center diff in your trans might still be ok. It is alot stronger than the center diffs in the 1g/2g. The V.C. in an Evo is also alot stronger and will not slip near as much with one end of the drivetrain free as a 1g/2g will. It really depends on how much the front wheels have been spun in relation to the rears (aka burnouts). The only good thing about the situation is at least your ring and pinion in the tcase won't be damaged, which is one of the real weak spots on an Evo.
The Evo driveshaft has three pieces. Are you just missing the last piece at the rear?
The Evo driveshaft has three pieces. Are you just missing the last piece at the rear?
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: alamogordo,NM
Originally Posted by AdamJ39
man that sucks, well for starters, find a new tranny, depending on who did the tranny, there may or may not be a few parts missing which pertain to the AWD set-up, i know for fact that Jon @TRE curves the cost of the set-up to me by retaining those parts for himself when the pass is made from AWD to FWD...So i would honestely just search for a new tranny, but giving Jon a call wouldnt hurt either just to see what replacement parts would cost along with a rebuild, but i think buying a new Center-Diff alone is gonna make it almost worthwhile to buy a new trans, other than that, jack your car up and snap some photos, i'm willing to bet that your driveshaft is missing, and the propshaft comming off the t-case has been removed and patched closed meaning that you may be looking for a t-case as well, take some photos of the underside, maybe a few from under the rear bumper looking towards the front of the car, but if you could jack the car up or back it onto some ramps that would be better...but from there we should be able to tell you exactly what you'll need, so far i would say Tranny for sure, and probably a T-case and Driveshaft, no1 would have any reason to remove the rear diff and axles, i'm sure its back there just free-spinning
-Adam
-Adam
Im afriad to even find out how much a t-case and new drive train will cost. Like I said, im in the military=broke.
I am really sic to the stomach bout it and kinda feel like running this car into a wall.
Im really contemplating a trade b4 i find sum other ishhh wrong
Any one intrested in a 3.5'' HPF tbe......
Evolved Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,815
Likes: 24
From: Davidson, NC
I guess my thinking is :
Why would you do that unless something was broken? Even if removing the driveshaft was to dyno the car on a 2WD dyno, you would still put that back in afterwards.
The only things I can come up with on the boost solenoid end of things is either they had some type of aftermarket setup that replaced it or whatever is broken isn't as obvious when the car is only running at wastegate pressure.
How long have you had the car? I would go back and punch the previous owner in the nuts.
Why would you do that unless something was broken? Even if removing the driveshaft was to dyno the car on a 2WD dyno, you would still put that back in afterwards.
The only things I can come up with on the boost solenoid end of things is either they had some type of aftermarket setup that replaced it or whatever is broken isn't as obvious when the car is only running at wastegate pressure.
How long have you had the car? I would go back and punch the previous owner in the nuts.
ahh better than i expected, someone was at least nice enough not to ruin ur transfer-case it seems...looks like getting a tranny and the rear section of the drive-shaft and you'll be allright..
GNST-- (true the center diff can take some serious abuise, the folling car i tested was returned to AWD status without a tranny overhaul after being driven as a fwd car for about 1000mi's and is still kicking like nothing ever happend to it).. this car i've driven is FWD evo powered mirage(my own personal car ages ago) without a welded the center-diff, as i said before it will behave like a burnt clutch untill the Viscus heats up and transfers some of the power, i even ran this FWD car on the track and just to give u an idea of what i'm talking about heres the time-slip...
R/T - .790
60' - 3.675
330 - 9.689
1/8 - 12.973 @ 78.03
1/4 - 17.7 @ 106.51
You can see from the 60' that the car has pathetic acceleration initially, and then after about 60mph the viscus will heat up enough to make for some meaningful acceleration...my point is, if he say's he's able to roast the tires, he without a doubt has a welded diff, which is now ruined for an AWD set-up, i say get a new tranny, or yours re-built and the remaining section of the driveshaft, and you'll be back in buisness...
-Adam
GNST-- (true the center diff can take some serious abuise, the folling car i tested was returned to AWD status without a tranny overhaul after being driven as a fwd car for about 1000mi's and is still kicking like nothing ever happend to it).. this car i've driven is FWD evo powered mirage(my own personal car ages ago) without a welded the center-diff, as i said before it will behave like a burnt clutch untill the Viscus heats up and transfers some of the power, i even ran this FWD car on the track and just to give u an idea of what i'm talking about heres the time-slip...
R/T - .790
60' - 3.675
330 - 9.689
1/8 - 12.973 @ 78.03
1/4 - 17.7 @ 106.51
You can see from the 60' that the car has pathetic acceleration initially, and then after about 60mph the viscus will heat up enough to make for some meaningful acceleration...my point is, if he say's he's able to roast the tires, he without a doubt has a welded diff, which is now ruined for an AWD set-up, i say get a new tranny, or yours re-built and the remaining section of the driveshaft, and you'll be back in buisness...
-Adam
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: alamogordo,NM
Originally Posted by AdamJ39
ahh better than i expected, someone was at least nice enough not to ruin ur transfer-case it seems...looks like getting a tranny and the rear section of the drive-shaft and you'll be allright..
GNST-- (true the center diff can take some serious abuise, the folling car i tested was returned to AWD status without a tranny overhaul after being driven as a fwd car for about 1000mi's and is still kicking like nothing ever happend to it).. this car i've driven is FWD evo powered mirage(my own personal car ages ago) without a welded the center-diff, as i said before it will behave like a burnt clutch untill the Viscus heats up and transfers some of the power, i even ran this FWD car on the track and just to give u an idea of what i'm talking about heres the time-slip...
R/T - .790
60' - 3.675
330 - 9.689
1/8 - 12.973 @ 78.03
1/4 - 17.7 @ 106.51
You can see from the 60' that the car has pathetic acceleration initially, and then after about 60mph the viscus will heat up enough to make for some meaningful acceleration...my point is, if he say's he's able to roast the tires, he without a doubt has a welded diff, which is now ruined for an AWD set-up, i say get a new tranny, or yours re-built and the remaining section of the driveshaft, and you'll be back in buisness...
-Adam
GNST-- (true the center diff can take some serious abuise, the folling car i tested was returned to AWD status without a tranny overhaul after being driven as a fwd car for about 1000mi's and is still kicking like nothing ever happend to it).. this car i've driven is FWD evo powered mirage(my own personal car ages ago) without a welded the center-diff, as i said before it will behave like a burnt clutch untill the Viscus heats up and transfers some of the power, i even ran this FWD car on the track and just to give u an idea of what i'm talking about heres the time-slip...
R/T - .790
60' - 3.675
330 - 9.689
1/8 - 12.973 @ 78.03
1/4 - 17.7 @ 106.51
You can see from the 60' that the car has pathetic acceleration initially, and then after about 60mph the viscus will heat up enough to make for some meaningful acceleration...my point is, if he say's he's able to roast the tires, he without a doubt has a welded diff, which is now ruined for an AWD set-up, i say get a new tranny, or yours re-built and the remaining section of the driveshaft, and you'll be back in buisness...
-Adam
that is by far thee most optimistic response yet... but i really cant afford a 4k+ install etc for a new tranni and shaft .... "MILITARY EMPLOYEE" lol so im prolly gonna trade it cuz i cant pay 24k on a broke as ride.
but thanx for the knowledge-bRaVo
