^^^^most dynos read differant my friend

 

You are talking about a completely different Dyno with god knows what calibration or the condition of the weather station. Apples to oranges.

Eric

 

Please refrain from comparing other cars, there are so many variables that some cars will make more, and some will make less (was it an evo IX, or VIII?). I've had cars that made great power and some for some reason will be 10-20whp down. Also on the dyno#'s, I just changed the correction factors & smoothing to show it made 323whp, just some things to think about. Also the only other mod he has over your buddy is the FMIC & an MBC. To be honest I'm not a big fan of the APS BOV, those have a brass piston that I've seen gall up, stick, & leak. Again many factors come into play.

 

thats why my friend when i did a base RUN a couple of days ago i was down to 278 with your tune on GRD's dyno and now im back up to 304whp on their dyno thats 26whp gain, which im my opinion when you add all that up it would come out to 320 on your dyno, we can do a couple of pulls i wont mind PAYING money is not the issue. oh and nothing at all was changed on the car since you all worked on it.
And also, yeah i know it was march or april but the car only saw 350-400 miles with your tune, it has 17750 at the moment, the car only see's the TRACK/road course. and when I was at the track before your tune i know at what speeds i was appoaching the the turn and when i went there with your tune it was a night to day difference it didnt c no where near that.
Im not flaming or insulting you guys i was just unhappy with my tune thats all....
Thank again
NERMIN...

 

Jedi_Gill thats exactly what Im trying to say.. Im not saying they have bad parts or anything im talking abut my TUNE here......

 

One other thing is why would i need a MBC when I have a UTEC, can u answer me this?
thanks in advance
NERMIN

 

You cannot compare dyno numbers unless they come from the same dyno with similiar conditions. It's completely pointless.

And for the record, the utec is not that bad of a tuning tool for the evo. On my stock 03 turbo with supporting mods, I put down 370 awhp on their dyno. It's the combination of mods and tuning that will give you great numbers. Too many people on thei board mix and match so many parts and then wonder why their numbers are not where they should be. It drives me crazy sometimes.

I can tell everyone from my experience at AMS, they do an excellent job tuning cars and would not "not" tune your car and charge you for it. After a post like this, I'm surprised they would even want to help out the original poster. Definately was not handled the proper way. Next time, pick up the phone and call them!!

Martin and everyone at AMS does an exceptional job on everyone's car they tune and build. They treat customer's cars like their own. Keep up the great work guys!

 

If Martin or Chris were informed that you road race your car exclusively, they tuned it up for that. An aggressive tune to get you the most WHP is NOT what you want for a road course. Lower WHP numbers are a LOT better than a melted motor.

 

Spot on! MOST vendors tune for max hp, rather than most power across the curve. Also, most tuners have no understanding that Road Racing REQUIRES abuse for longer than 10s, so it can't be a 'ragged' edge type adjustment. Martin tuned my Evo for road race duties, and judging from the fact AMS wins most everything on a road course he must have skills. In fact, everyone who rode in my Evo couldn't believe how linear the power was. Now remember, we tuned my car to bleed from 19 down to around 17, and most times, I ran less, because I wanted to ensure the ability to drive 300 miles back home. Now, could he have gotten a ton more power, absolutely, but I was able to run his tune for OVER 3 years with stock internals doing roughly more than 100 track days in the southern heat (I was the first track ***** ). If you want to see how my Evo did, note the vid link below, and remember, this is a VERY conservative tune. You can see my conservative tune pass a C6 Z06, an Exige, many C5 Z06's, etc, but again, it was all about the linear power, not about 'peak' numbers. Although I never entered the Time Trials, I was always in the top 5-7 cars out of around 200 entries per event. This included the race cars too. Just watch the vid, and remember, i was being 'passive', I could have been a ton more aggressive, but the folks out there were running for times, and I was being courteous enough to pass where I wouldn't mess them up. Also, I have to mention I fried my brakes on Saturday, so I was getting out of it WAY sooner than usual.

Enjoy....

http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...tlanta&pl=true

I have said my piece....

 

Maybe I came out the wrong way, and was pissed off but when I think about it I think AMS does this SAFE tune to protect them self in the long RUN of a CUSTOMERS car, but i still think 25+whp is a lot of gain for me on my new tune so lets not get TOOO safe or how you guys call it CONSERVATIVE , altho im still up for, what my car will put down on your DYNO with my new tune.
Let me know
NERMIN....

 

One thing, no matter who tunes the car, never go to a open-track session without a wide-band. That is a given, you want to know if something changes, before things get expensive.

And I won't swear to this, but if I remember correctly, Martin told Jon he could have found @15-20 more if I was going to drag only, but he wouldn't feel comfortable knowing I was going to abuse it for 20m under WOT.

STF

 

I'm always amazed that people complain when they go to a well respected shop, receive a performance tune that is safe, and then complain about it. Any reputable tuner will start the tuning process with the car rich, the ignition retarded, or both, and work incrementally to a safe number that will not cause damage to your car if you run it that way without knowing what you're doing to the motor. A reputable tuner will err on the side of a conservative tune, and should. Did you tell the tuner you wanted a tune that would give you the highest HP possible, without regard to safety margins, or did you tell the tuner that you tracked the car, and it needed to be tuned to survive 20 minute track sessions?

Look around at the posts of people who got tunes at the edge and then their motors grenaded and ask yourself -- it that what I was hoping for? A SAFE TUNE IS TO PROTECT YOUR INTEREST in having a running car, and not having to spend $5000 to rebuild your motor. You got exactly what you should have.

If you want a ragged edge tune, you'll be taking the responsibility for anything that goes wrong, and you better be knowledgeable enough about the effects of a wide variety of conditions so that you know what can cause problems and how big the problems will be. Even relative humidity can affect the safety margin of a tune that is at the edge.

And that's what you wanted for a road racing car where reliability is paramount? Truly amazing.

You are the kind of customer that gives a performance shop heartburn. You want a max number tune, but you'd blame the tuner if the motor is destroyed. If you get a safe tune, you come on here and start a post badmouthing the tune you got. Not much of a benefit to any company dealing with you -- they lose either way...

 

those are really good numbers look at my mods??

my tuner says that am getting only 300 and if i get more he will be inprese

 

Nermin,

Please call us and speak with any of the salesmen, I already informed them that you'll be calling and we'll put you down for 3 pulls on the dyno, free of charge. Just so you know, the base knock settings on a Utec are too aggressive, meaning the car can detonate without pulling timing. I know this because I was one of the beta testers for the EVO Utec unit. Myself and another shop developed the knock calibrations and ours was conservative and the other shop was way too aggressive. Turbo XS split it down the middle and I think it's still a little too aggressive.
When I tune a Utec I approach the timing limits until I trigger the knock algorithm and then I back it off until I can do a few hot runs going through the gears without any timing being pulled.

Please do call us and we'll get you no the dyno and check it out.

Thanks!

 

It's nice AMS is willing to be so open about the specifics of the Utec, and why the tune was done the way it was. That's exactly the process that I described above -- start from very safe levels and move carefully towards more power, while protecting the customer's car. You just got the added benefit of AMS knowing even more about your Utec than some other shops might have, since they did the beta testing of the unit. As the Utec will apparently detonate without hitting the "safety" margin, they may have saved you an expensive rebuild by tuning it as they did, and you didn't even know it.

As far as the three free pulls and additional tuning goes, that's customer service way above and beyond what you'd see from most businesses that got advised of your issue by an internet posting.

Classy, AMS!