crankIT

iTrader: (1)

Ok guys, my friend is leaving out of the country for atleast a year at the end of next week his visa expires. He had an AP stage 2 tune, and was trying to flash back to stock to pass emissions for the sale of his evo x. I am the intended buyer. The AP connection crapped out mid-flash back to stock. Now the car will not run, although it will crank and turn to 'on'. Interestingly enough, on the 'on' position the fans run and the display gives warnings as though it is still in the programming state. I have done some research, and have tuned my ralliart using ECUflash and my openport. Can I use my openport to exit programming state on this evo, even though it has been previously flashed by an AP? Can it cause any further harm? Has anyone else had a similar problem with their AP?


P.S. Does anyone have a stock usdm/cadm 2008 GSR map they can send to me just incase?


Any help would be much appreciated here. We are stuck inbetween a rock and a very hard place. Would like to figure this out and finally get my hands on an evo after months of searching


Edit: When I say AP flash back to stock, I really mean using AP's 'uninstall' feature

cush87

iTrader: (1)

I have a stock map for my 08 evo X that I could send you if you need one. I have an AP on my car also, and have never had any issues with so I can't help you out on that end.

crankIT

iTrader: (1)

sent you a pm

Kracka

iTrader: (49)

Have you tried reflashing the ECU? Call Cobb, I'm sure their tech line can walk you through the fix, or search on this site for instructions on how to bench-flash the ECU.

crankIT

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the help. First thing I did was call cobb. I explained the situation and they opened an RMA for me to send them the ecu to be benched free of charge. There customer service was very helpful. I was just hoping to find a quick workaround, as I really do not want to pull the ecu because of the downtime sending it out, and the fact that Canadian evo's have their ecu's attached along with a metal cover binded with shear bolts. I didn't feel like cracking out the drill in the engine bay until all options were considered. Now I have researched a little more, although it sucks, I am certain this ecu needs to be benched. I will pull it tomorrow, and either send it to cobb, get a local tuner to do it, or bench it myself. I will weigh the options for time/cost and figure it out.

Once again, thanks for the help guys

VSGTS14

i'm gonna say cobb has to fix it good luck! they are very fast turn around rate...the only down time you will see is because you're shipping from canada to the US.

2010XMAN

same thing happened to me and the fuse went out. my car was rear ended and shorted my ecu. My car did the same thing this car is doing and it was a simple fix. you should be good

ikt

iTrader: (18)

Cobb tech support is excellent, give them a call!

crankIT

iTrader: (1)

cobb tech support is excellent but I decided not to go that route because of the downtime involved. The ecu has been de-bricked via ecuflash and by tactrix cable. So for the record, an ecu 'locked' or in recovery mode from a cobb AP can be debricked using tephra's guide no problem. Thank you very much to tephra and everyone else who laid the groundwork! For the record as well, I was also able to use a computer power supply, I simply shorted the 'on' line on the mobo connector, and drew a +12v line along with a ground that I split to power the OBD & ECU. And for you Canadian guys, the ecu can be taken out by drilling the heads of the 3 large shear bolts with a large bit size.

project_skyline

iTrader: (30)

Did you try and reflash it after it happened at all? With the cobb AP of course.

Boosted Tuning

iTrader: (12)

Doubt he ever wants the AP to touch the car again

crankIT

iTrader: (1)

No I did not, and the 'uninstall' process never fully completed before I benched the ecu so the ap is still married to a ghost ecu. Which would mean before it could be used again, it would have to be reset by cobb. I am sure they can do it no problem free of charge given my circumstances, except I voided the warranty to open it up myself, to find that the initial flashing problem was almost certainly caused by a loose pin on the cobb side of the OBDII connector. At this point, I am not willing to invest anymore time or money into it as we have some great custom tuners where I live and I am more comfortable with EcuFlash. Not to say cobb isn't a good system, the previous owner was extremely happy with the AP, and they seem to have pretty good customer service compared to other companies. I am just the type of guy who doesn't like depending on others and I prefer to do things myself whenever possible.

project_skyline

iTrader: (30)

Uninstalling is the same as reflashing the stock flash in ecuflash.

So retrying probably would have worked just the same.

crankIT

iTrader: (1)

not willing to take the risk to try and reflash and unmarry again, given what had happened the first time

fostytou

iTrader: (15)

I think he meant to re-try when it was bricked... although I'm not sure that would have worked (given the ECU probably couldn't communicate and the checksum may not have matched for a positive un-marry).