Drag Times with new Headers
your question - do torque/hp points change with mods.
answer - absolutly. camshaft will be a nice upgrade for you, and exhaust system as well as dropping a bit of weight like you said (seats, tire, fuel) would likely get you into the 15's. camshafts can generally add 10-12hp to the wheels and then exhaust adds another 5% hp onto that.
answer - absolutly. camshaft will be a nice upgrade for you, and exhaust system as well as dropping a bit of weight like you said (seats, tire, fuel) would likely get you into the 15's. camshafts can generally add 10-12hp to the wheels and then exhaust adds another 5% hp onto that.
Originally posted by perfdrug
your question - do torque/hp points change with mods.
answer - absolutly. camshaft will be a nice upgrade for you, and exhaust system as well as dropping a bit of weight like you said (seats, tire, fuel) would likely get you into the 15's. camshafts can generally add 10-12hp to the wheels and then exhaust adds another 5% hp onto that.
your question - do torque/hp points change with mods.
answer - absolutly. camshaft will be a nice upgrade for you, and exhaust system as well as dropping a bit of weight like you said (seats, tire, fuel) would likely get you into the 15's. camshafts can generally add 10-12hp to the wheels and then exhaust adds another 5% hp onto that.
15's?? He has to be fast enough to beat/compete the last gen SI HB, stock. Thus, 160-180 HP goal range.
160-180Hp Ouch!!!!
I assume you are talking flywheel Hp but no combo of bolt on mods will produce that amount hp right? That's 40 extra hp Im looking for. (Along with camshaft)
I'm going to have my car dyno'd next week with the headers. Will post when I return. Hopefully it will be encouraging.
WADAD
I assume you are talking flywheel Hp but no combo of bolt on mods will produce that amount hp right? That's 40 extra hp Im looking for. (Along with camshaft)
I'm going to have my car dyno'd next week with the headers. Will post when I return. Hopefully it will be encouraging.
WADAD
Last edited by WADADLIG_OZ; Feb 21, 2003 at 06:56 PM.
Yes, at flywheel.
No regular bolt-on mods will grant you +40 HP. You may get half or jump 2/3 of it.
Camshaft will give you, depending on mods, big increases. I'm confident w/ bolt-ons and cam, you'll chase down a stock SI or even w/ intake.
No regular bolt-on mods will grant you +40 HP. You may get half or jump 2/3 of it.
Camshaft will give you, depending on mods, big increases. I'm confident w/ bolt-ons and cam, you'll chase down a stock SI or even w/ intake.
Ok now that I have th new dyno figures can someone answer my question about shift points. Should now run to 6000 redline before shifting since hp is still peaking up to this point or should I shift where hp and torque intersect around 5700-5800 rpm. At this point hp is still rising but torque is declining?
I am am curious to know how I would use this data to improve my times.
Thanks
WADAD
I am am curious to know how I would use this data to improve my times.
Thanks
WADAD
It's awfully hard to tell since your motor's HP tends to shoot straight up to redline before dropping off. We know shifting redline isn't a way to go, higher chance of driver error.
If it drops off before redline, I would say shift there and then.
Shifting at TQ intersection, it's not a sure rule. As HP increases in a powerband, TQ will have to spiral downwards. I don't know any motor defying this laws of physics.
Try this. As you merge onto the interstate, hit WOT. Feel your motor pull and sense the faint hint of HP drop off. Try this a few times to get an accurate reading.
Downshifting will have a different feel than stop light sprints.
If it drops off before redline, I would say shift there and then.
Shifting at TQ intersection, it's not a sure rule. As HP increases in a powerband, TQ will have to spiral downwards. I don't know any motor defying this laws of physics.
Try this. As you merge onto the interstate, hit WOT. Feel your motor pull and sense the faint hint of HP drop off. Try this a few times to get an accurate reading.
Downshifting will have a different feel than stop light sprints.
On the way back to Orlando I tried pulling 3rd WOT a couple times and the car pulls all the way to 6K. There isn't really a noticeable drop in the "pull" of the engine.
Next time I I go to the track I am going to try shifting further into the rpm range and see how that affects my times. A buddy of mine also told me that my shifting techniques are bad. Anyone else can chime in on this but he said once I get hooked up and move off from the light that I should never release the accelerator pedal. In other words my foot is to the floor the whole time.
His reasoning is that the car is rocking back and forward from the way I shift and this is slowing down my times? Anyone agree or disagree with this?
The only thing I am worried about is missing a shift and what catastrophic results may occur.
This is my last on this until I break that 16 sec barrier I am looking for.
Peace
WADAD
Next time I I go to the track I am going to try shifting further into the rpm range and see how that affects my times. A buddy of mine also told me that my shifting techniques are bad. Anyone else can chime in on this but he said once I get hooked up and move off from the light that I should never release the accelerator pedal. In other words my foot is to the floor the whole time.
His reasoning is that the car is rocking back and forward from the way I shift and this is slowing down my times? Anyone agree or disagree with this?
The only thing I am worried about is missing a shift and what catastrophic results may occur.
This is my last on this until I break that 16 sec barrier I am looking for.
Peace
WADAD
Originally posted by HobieKopek
Leave your foot floored on the gas while you shift and Mystic Seer Andrew predicts a new clutch in the near future.
Leave your foot floored on the gas while you shift and Mystic Seer Andrew predicts a new clutch in the near future.
If you don't feel any drop, try to tag 6100 at most. I'm too hestiate to ask you to peg 6200. Feel your engine. Don't go berserk and go for 6500 rpm and spin a rod bearing.
"His reasoning is that the car is rocking back and forward from the way I shift and this is slowing down my times? Anyone agree or disagree with this?"
All manual will have this tendency. Only the true god-like shifter can shift w/o every having the car rock a bit. From all the years of driving, I have only seen 2 out of hundreds can do it on the track or street.
Get traction first within the first 60' . . . the rest will drop in time.
In the pro drag import circuit, they consider 1.8 sec on the 60' bad traction . . .
Last edited by bahamut; Mar 3, 2003 at 05:55 PM.
OK cool guys.
I need that new rubber first I guess but my tires aren't really worn yet. We'll see how things go. My goal is to break the 16 sec mark without spending over 2G's. So far I have spent a total of $830 including the dyno and short shifter I just installed.
Peace
WADAD
I need that new rubber first I guess but my tires aren't really worn yet. We'll see how things go. My goal is to break the 16 sec mark without spending over 2G's. So far I have spent a total of $830 including the dyno and short shifter I just installed.
Peace
WADAD
Originally posted by WADADLIG_OZ
In other words my foot is to the floor the whole time.
In other words my foot is to the floor the whole time.
His reasoning is that the car is rocking back and forward from the way I shift and this is slowing down my times? Anyone agree or disagree with this?
Last edited by DB8GSR; Mar 3, 2003 at 08:59 PM.
Power shifting is usually used by domestic who is willing to torch his clutch. Prolong usage will torch your clutch.
Yes. Practice will take time, but eventually you will grind a gear from misshift.
Yes. Practice will take time, but eventually you will grind a gear from misshift.




