New track times finally 11's
It is not timing based. It uses a 'soft' rev limiter... cutting random cylinders fuel and ignition at 250rpms before it hits the hard rev limiter. It is my primary rev limiter so yes... it bounces at 8.5k or so. I can shift fast enough to ensure it only bounces once.. Im sure if I really gave it I could make it hit the next gear without it bouncing. You will not have spool issues doing it this way I doubt. I datalogged it and I think it dropped to 19psi or so from 25.5 but gains it back extremely quickly. I was hesitant at first by doing this but now it seems perfect. I am a little wary of revving the motor that high however... I have stock springs in the head and a bone stock bottom end. Im not sure where valve float becomes an issue on stock motors/heads. I hope Im not the one to find out though 
This is the set-up that i run to make it very easy to understand. I unplugged the clutch switch and re-wired it temperarily to a switch that I hold with my thumb on the shifter. I hold it there stuttering and right before I launch I try to switch the switch so it disables the launch rpm and lets it rev all the way to the primary rev limiter. It is very ghetto looking and I will probably think of something much better later but for now it works it seems.
The launch rev limiter I have is kinda crappy... you can sort of make it Anti lag by retarding the timing a bunch at the load points and RPMs that you stutter at. There are two large issues with it. First, you need to use fuel cut (Otherwise it will switch to stock ECU timing if you use ignition cut based stutter). The problem with doing it this way is you cant dump a ton of fuel in the motor at the same time so it doesnt really shoot fireballs or anything but it is enough to spool my big @ss turbo to 20psi quickly. The other problem with it is the fuel cut rev limiter is not very precise (It raises the RPMs every spike pretty fast) so two problems hit... one, it will rev farther that it wants to and cut fuel for a long period of time making the boost fall off and power fall off and the other problem is it will build too much boost and hit a different load point (One where I might hit while racing it so I cant keep retarding timing that high) so it will again, lose a bunch of spool and power.
I dont use my version of the anti-lag because it doesnt really serve me a purpose. On a pro tree i would need it probably but on the sportsman tree or whatever it is, I can stutter it for 10 seconds if I really want to and 7psi or so seems to be enough so far (I think... my 60' times still kinda suck though).
I am not letting off the gas at all. Obviously to fully answer your question Just hold on and pray Ill bet with a good driver (Not me) you could hit the next gear before it actually hits the rev limiter anyways... this results in a launch type feeling when you hit second gear. It is so much better than lifting. Also, when lifting I lose all boost and it takes forever to respool.
Like I said, the Utec is a great product for someone like me. Pretty new to tuning. Doesnt wanna screw around with cold starts and stuff but still wants full control of the 'tuning' parameters. The downside to it is you need to work around a bunch of things for the little extras (ALS and a better shift-no-lift and a better rev limiter, etc...). All in all though, for the price I really dont think it could be beat.
DS Motorsports... how do you hit the good 60 foot times? Any pointers? To give you an idea of what I hear my launch looks like... They say it looks great, car jumps forward very fast then the tires in the front only start spinning fast enough that smoke actually pours out of the wheel wells. The rear tires slip very slightly if at all most launches. So far I hear I should raise my air temp in the rear and lower it in the front. They also say I should be using drag radials to try to hold the power down and lighter rims would help too. Also tighter rear suspension would help. The thing I want to learn is how to do it the same way the car sits. I am sure these tires are capable of holding enough traction to still hit 1.6s and maybe even high 1.5s. Stock suspension Evos can do it also so whats the deal? Make me better
I trap almost 4 mph faster than you on but run the same quartermile times. Granted my car was technically over a full wieght car (Had tools, spare tire, jack, 2 bags of clothes, half a tank of gas, etc...) but I would still think I should be running 11.3s or so at that trap.
This is the set-up that i run to make it very easy to understand. I unplugged the clutch switch and re-wired it temperarily to a switch that I hold with my thumb on the shifter. I hold it there stuttering and right before I launch I try to switch the switch so it disables the launch rpm and lets it rev all the way to the primary rev limiter. It is very ghetto looking and I will probably think of something much better later but for now it works it seems.
The launch rev limiter I have is kinda crappy... you can sort of make it Anti lag by retarding the timing a bunch at the load points and RPMs that you stutter at. There are two large issues with it. First, you need to use fuel cut (Otherwise it will switch to stock ECU timing if you use ignition cut based stutter). The problem with doing it this way is you cant dump a ton of fuel in the motor at the same time so it doesnt really shoot fireballs or anything but it is enough to spool my big @ss turbo to 20psi quickly. The other problem with it is the fuel cut rev limiter is not very precise (It raises the RPMs every spike pretty fast) so two problems hit... one, it will rev farther that it wants to and cut fuel for a long period of time making the boost fall off and power fall off and the other problem is it will build too much boost and hit a different load point (One where I might hit while racing it so I cant keep retarding timing that high) so it will again, lose a bunch of spool and power.
I dont use my version of the anti-lag because it doesnt really serve me a purpose. On a pro tree i would need it probably but on the sportsman tree or whatever it is, I can stutter it for 10 seconds if I really want to and 7psi or so seems to be enough so far (I think... my 60' times still kinda suck though).
I am not letting off the gas at all. Obviously to fully answer your question
Just hold on and pray Ill bet with a good driver (Not me) you could hit the next gear before it actually hits the rev limiter anyways... this results in a launch type feeling when you hit second gear. It is so much better than lifting. Also, when lifting I lose all boost and it takes forever to respool.Like I said, the Utec is a great product for someone like me. Pretty new to tuning. Doesnt wanna screw around with cold starts and stuff but still wants full control of the 'tuning' parameters. The downside to it is you need to work around a bunch of things for the little extras (ALS and a better shift-no-lift and a better rev limiter, etc...). All in all though, for the price I really dont think it could be beat.
DS Motorsports... how do you hit the good 60 foot times? Any pointers? To give you an idea of what I hear my launch looks like... They say it looks great, car jumps forward very fast then the tires in the front only start spinning fast enough that smoke actually pours out of the wheel wells. The rear tires slip very slightly if at all most launches. So far I hear I should raise my air temp in the rear and lower it in the front. They also say I should be using drag radials to try to hold the power down and lighter rims would help too. Also tighter rear suspension would help. The thing I want to learn is how to do it the same way the car sits. I am sure these tires are capable of holding enough traction to still hit 1.6s and maybe even high 1.5s. Stock suspension Evos can do it also so whats the deal? Make me better
I trap almost 4 mph faster than you on but run the same quartermile times. Granted my car was technically over a full wieght car (Had tools, spare tire, jack, 2 bags of clothes, half a tank of gas, etc...) but I would still think I should be running 11.3s or so at that trap.
I havent dynoed it ever. My datalogger says anywhere from 475-535 or so when Im at the track but I dunno really. It seems about right though... Most people that trap our cars at 123 at full weight (With spare tire, and luggage and all) I think have aroud 500 to the ground but I dunno. I dont really care to be honest either It makes enough power to hit 123mph in the quarter at low boost so its fine by me
It makes enough power to hit 123mph in the quarter at low boost so its fine by me
You should be able to trap around 117-119. So with that, a good run would get an 11.5 or so I would think... but 11.6-11.8 would be without great driving and be more realistic.
I'm not that great of a driver when it comes to the drag strip! Some of you guys are just crazy when it comes down to the shift-timing, launching, etc. I'll gun for an 11.8 and see what happens! 
