A question for all the 10 second evo's
A question for all the 10 second evo's
I have been thinking about a turbo upgrade. And I was just wondering what you guys have had to beef up/upgrade in the driveline besides the clutch when running 10's. At what point do you start to loose the tranny, t-case, halfshafts and rearend? And are there upgraded parts that will stand up to the abuse or are you constantly replacing parts when they break?
Id like to run a gt35r, race head, and maybe a built short block.
thanks
Id like to run a gt35r, race head, and maybe a built short block.
thanks
I dont technically own a 10 second Evo however it is pretty easy to answer your question.
At STOCK power levels you can easily destroy all of the said items. Generally, the clutch will slip preventing too much damage to anything else. Assuming you changed that to something beefy anything can give. Generally the front diff gives first due to the crap gears. Anyways, like anything, if you know what your doing and you are somewhat nice to it, it will hold fine. If you do 8k side-steps it will break.
At STOCK power levels you can easily destroy all of the said items. Generally, the clutch will slip preventing too much damage to anything else. Assuming you changed that to something beefy anything can give. Generally the front diff gives first due to the crap gears. Anyways, like anything, if you know what your doing and you are somewhat nice to it, it will hold fine. If you do 8k side-steps it will break.
like TrinaBabe said it's all in how you drive the car. Plan on replacing the transfer case no matter what. After that what kind of tires are on the car. Tires and clutch selection can help relieve SOME of the stress on the rest of the drivetrain. If the clutch has no give the tires will spin. If the tires don't give it will be trasfercase, axles, transmission, and rearend/driveshaft. in that order.
Originally Posted by PURE-EVO
like TrinaBabe said it's all in how you drive the car. Plan on replacing the transfer case no matter what. After that what kind of tires are on the car. Tires and clutch selection can help relieve SOME of the stress on the rest of the drivetrain. If the clutch has no give the tires will spin. If the tires don't give it will be trasfercase, axles, transmission, and rearend/driveshaft. in that order.
What kind of tires did it take for you to hit the 10.5? Very nice by the way
Could you also list your mods.
Thanks
Since matts offline, ill answer for him
. So far the TC has been rebuilt by TRE, with the ralliart diff, and we upgraded to driveshaft shop level 5 rear axles. The run was made on street tires- Yokohama advan 032Rs. The clutch used in the car is the RPS twin carbon carbon. Link to the full list of mods http://www.pure-tuning.com/pages/med...ctcars/evo.htm
If I missed anything, Im sure matt will add to it later.
. So far the TC has been rebuilt by TRE, with the ralliart diff, and we upgraded to driveshaft shop level 5 rear axles. The run was made on street tires- Yokohama advan 032Rs. The clutch used in the car is the RPS twin carbon carbon. Link to the full list of mods http://www.pure-tuning.com/pages/med...ctcars/evo.htmIf I missed anything, Im sure matt will add to it later.
Last edited by PURE MR; Oct 25, 2005 at 07:43 PM.
Originally Posted by PURE MR
Since matts offline, ill answer for him
. So far the TC has been rebuilt by TRE, with the ralliart diff, and we upgraded to driveshaft shop level 5 rear axles. The run was made on street tires- Yokohama advan 032Rs. The clutch used in the car is the RPS twin carbon carbon. Link to the full list of mods http://www.pure-tuning.com/pages/med...ctcars/evo.htm
If I missed anything, Im sure matt will add to it later.
. So far the TC has been rebuilt by TRE, with the ralliart diff, and we upgraded to driveshaft shop level 5 rear axles. The run was made on street tires- Yokohama advan 032Rs. The clutch used in the car is the RPS twin carbon carbon. Link to the full list of mods http://www.pure-tuning.com/pages/med...ctcars/evo.htmIf I missed anything, Im sure matt will add to it later.
thanks
I never broke a trans, f diff or rear axel
I broke a lot of rear half shafts before I got the Drive Shaft Shop half shafts
I also chose to get a quaife f lsd and a shep racing trans massage which is prob the best mod i ever did
I broke a lot of rear half shafts before I got the Drive Shaft Shop half shafts
I also chose to get a quaife f lsd and a shep racing trans massage which is prob the best mod i ever did
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Just to clarify, we never actually broke any of those things (we did roast an exedy clutch, but thats because it was only a twin disc). The transfer case was still in tact, but didnt have many more passes on it to say the least. And thanks Al, rear half shafts is what I meant, and never broke them, but upgraded to the level 5 cause we were sure it was bound to happen anyways. And upgraded tranny is definitely a must, which we will be doing this off season.
For clarification hard launches are what kills driveline parts.
The transfer case is weak, it's not the front diff but the ring and pinion that take the abuse. In my case a sticky track and a bog off the line worked it over pretty good.
The rear axles (half shafts , whatever, same thing in my book) usually break from wheel hop. When you really start pushing to get the 60' times down wheel hop is inevitable.
The transmission is relatively strong. mostly just synchro problems. I still run a stock tranny and I think Al ran one for a long time without any problems. A TRE or shep tranny will shift beter than stock though, especially at high RPM. and give you that extra piece of mind.
The front halfshafts, rear diff, and driveshaft - 99.9% of people won't have problems. I think AMS has broken some of these parts (ask them for verification). Then again the amount of power they have and the times they run isn't for your average joe.
The RPS clutch is nice. Very slippable and will hold a TON of power. The high RPM (8500+) shifting is a little slow though. I will be testing some light weight discs this winter which should solve that problem.
Matt
The transfer case is weak, it's not the front diff but the ring and pinion that take the abuse. In my case a sticky track and a bog off the line worked it over pretty good.
The rear axles (half shafts , whatever, same thing in my book) usually break from wheel hop. When you really start pushing to get the 60' times down wheel hop is inevitable.
The transmission is relatively strong. mostly just synchro problems. I still run a stock tranny and I think Al ran one for a long time without any problems. A TRE or shep tranny will shift beter than stock though, especially at high RPM. and give you that extra piece of mind.
The front halfshafts, rear diff, and driveshaft - 99.9% of people won't have problems. I think AMS has broken some of these parts (ask them for verification). Then again the amount of power they have and the times they run isn't for your average joe.
The RPS clutch is nice. Very slippable and will hold a TON of power. The high RPM (8500+) shifting is a little slow though. I will be testing some light weight discs this winter which should solve that problem.
Matt
Originally Posted by PURE-EVO
The rear axles (half shafts , whatever, same thing in my book) usually break from wheel hop.
Originally Posted by TrinaBabe
:P As in most peoples as well. I think most people have them break from wheelhop when they are using slicks or do not have high HP. High HP levels and street tires will almost always just spin rather than try to actually grip anything enough to make the car hop.


