Want to talk about shift points more...
Want to talk about shift points more...
Ok, so I found many of post talking about shift points. Warr kept saying in every post to shift around 7000-7500 (diff. post, diff. mods, but roughly lowest to the highest, w/o cams.) depending on the taper. But my hp starts tapering at 6000, according to the dyno. So would my best bet be to shift at around 6000 to 6500? Or is that to low? Just basing this off of "shift when you taper" point.
I was going to try this when I was at the track, but I only had the one run. I will be going back hopefully this week, but its not a sure thing yet. And I also know that every car will be different and I will just have to figure out the best for my car, but it could save a run by not shifting that low from the get go.
Also, the redline starts at 7000, so is there no limiter (may have found an answer, but not sure).
And is taper inevitable with the stock turbo, or will upgrading the manifold, turbo outlet and tbe get rid of it?
I was going to try this when I was at the track, but I only had the one run. I will be going back hopefully this week, but its not a sure thing yet. And I also know that every car will be different and I will just have to figure out the best for my car, but it could save a run by not shifting that low from the get go.
Also, the redline starts at 7000, so is there no limiter (may have found an answer, but not sure).
And is taper inevitable with the stock turbo, or will upgrading the manifold, turbo outlet and tbe get rid of it?
if i shift above 7k i go slower , like you said the stock turbo falls off after 7k . For example up shifts drop my rpms by lets say 1000rpms (3 gear / 7000rpms , shift / 4th gear 6000rpms) So I think it would be best tp shift 500rmps after peak hp . Now on the 1-2 upshift i think the rpms drop a lil more (1500 or so) . So peak hp should be in the middle of your powerband for each gear . Not unless after peak HP the power just falls off . But you get the idea.
Originally Posted by matt55
like you said the stock turbo falls off after 7k
If you have a dyno - fabulous. The problem is you usually use one gear for the dyno and ALL of them on the strip.
What you want to do is land in a window where you'll still have excellent power and acceleration (torque) without a real drop off. Each gear will be slightly different (if you have a boost gauge you've seen how peak behaves differently by gear, for instance). But if you review your dyno and know how much rpm drop there is shifting from each gear to the next you can plot out your shifting.
You'd need visuals to understand this better, but if you print that dyno plot out 3 times and then make a template for each gear change (how many rpm drop going from 1st - 2nd? 2nd - 3rd, 3rd - 4th), you can lay that template over the plot and understand where you land after each shift. You can make a great gear-for-gear map. But you're really guessing what each gear's curve looks like since the plot is of a single-gear run.
Fuel cut stock is ... 7200 or 7400 I don't recall. Most flashes will get you to 7800. But it's about when you're running out of power OR taking advantage of a meaty section of the curve.
With the power I have it can be tough to change from 1st to 2nd fast enough. I'm not used to the mods I did recently quite yet. And I don't get the benefit of a dyno map just yet. I hope to be able to run a plot of at least 2nd and 3rd if it's safe, etc.
Anway, let us know what works for you and what you're running for mods and tune. Good luck!
What you want to do is land in a window where you'll still have excellent power and acceleration (torque) without a real drop off. Each gear will be slightly different (if you have a boost gauge you've seen how peak behaves differently by gear, for instance). But if you review your dyno and know how much rpm drop there is shifting from each gear to the next you can plot out your shifting.
You'd need visuals to understand this better, but if you print that dyno plot out 3 times and then make a template for each gear change (how many rpm drop going from 1st - 2nd? 2nd - 3rd, 3rd - 4th), you can lay that template over the plot and understand where you land after each shift. You can make a great gear-for-gear map. But you're really guessing what each gear's curve looks like since the plot is of a single-gear run.
Fuel cut stock is ... 7200 or 7400 I don't recall. Most flashes will get you to 7800. But it's about when you're running out of power OR taking advantage of a meaty section of the curve.
With the power I have it can be tough to change from 1st to 2nd fast enough. I'm not used to the mods I did recently quite yet. And I don't get the benefit of a dyno map just yet. I hope to be able to run a plot of at least 2nd and 3rd if it's safe, etc.
Anway, let us know what works for you and what you're running for mods and tune. Good luck!
Originally Posted by sho 'um
Well, in 3rd, my taper starts at 6000, and I dont get out of 4th in the 1/4 and 1st and 2nd are so fast, I guess the only gear to really worry about would be the 3rd to 4th shift. I guess I will just try some different shifts when Im at the track. Looks like I was really just looking for the 3rd to 4th tips anyways. Thanks for the info
. But looking at all the dynographs of car with the same mods/hp as mine i might try sub 7000 shiftingCould you post your dyno chart up ?
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/at...chmentid=81530
took from dynoflash
It looks like on this car that the "sweetspot" is 5500-6500 after 6.5k its falling
took from dynoflash
It looks like on this car that the "sweetspot" is 5500-6500 after 6.5k its falling
yeah, here is my chart.

And all I meant by the 3rd to 4th being the most important is because after the launch at 4000-5000 rpm, there isnt much gear left and I shifted almost right away. And we all know that 2nd is really short, than you in 3rd for the longest. Thats where the most noticable drop in power is.

And all I meant by the 3rd to 4th being the most important is because after the launch at 4000-5000 rpm, there isnt much gear left and I shifted almost right away. And we all know that 2nd is really short, than you in 3rd for the longest. Thats where the most noticable drop in power is.
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I wouldn't rely on that nasty chart when determining your optimum shift point. You just need to go by feel. Your power isn't falling of after 6500 anymore than the rest of us. It just looks bad, because the chart is so small, the increments are very large, and the hash marks are so close together. I still say shift at 7000-7200 or so on the 2-3 and 3-4. There is no reason for you to ignore the 1-2 and 2-3 shift points - those are far more important than the 3-4, which is the easiest and least important of all...
But see 1st and 2nd the rpm is so fast that the drop in power isnt noticed that much. But 3rd is long and the rpm is moving a lot slower than 1st and 2nd and if you were to stay in that gear longer than needed, the power would just be going down. In my thinking, shifting to 4th would be better earlier. I will just try next time and see what works best and I think I am going to night too.
(this is just my thinking process, I know hands on is the best way to figure it out)
(this is just my thinking process, I know hands on is the best way to figure it out)
When I was stock I shifted first at 7500 right before fuel cut and the rest of the gears I tried to hit at like 7250 +/- . This method got me a best of 13.19 @ 105.8. You could try that if you like



