We had Grudge Day Racing @ our local track. Had the car about a little over a month. Mods are:

DNP manifold
TB Exhaust
Bnice w/i injection (only run 100%) w/ bnice fail safe
buddy club 272/272
ACT clutch/flywheel
Greddy Type-S BOV
Upgrade turbine housing (10.5)
Tein Type S springs
TurboXS Wideband
TurboXS MBC
XSPower FMIC

nice reflash tune I put on it

Just put a timing belt and balance shaft belt on 2 weeks ago if that counts as mods LOL

I bought the car jun 2 the only thing that was on it was manifold,exhaust, and clutch/flywheel. all the other mods are recent installs. i just love the fact how much control over the tune/ecu I have.

1.7 60ft's
with countless 7.8 passes @ 87. I had a couple of hick ups you will see in the vid enjoy:

Click here to see Video

 

Good job and nice vid, although when I think about it, I would have expected your traps to be a little higher with the mods you have, but still you did a good job. Have you had the car on a dyno with those mods and do you self tune your car?

 

no dyno yet, tune myself, i just realize now that I should be shifting @ 7500 rather than 7k. I would run out of gear in 3rd about good 200ft or so have to shift in 4th. But still learning the car, thanks man glad you enjoyed it. boost was around 23-25ish

 

Pretty slow for the mods, but not terrible, and the driving is spot on. Depending on the track itself, those times would end up being 12.3-12.4 @ 109-110 in the 1/4, but 1/8-mile track times don't always translate.

The very poor MBC choice, Ebay FMIC, and poor BOV are probably not helping much. It's also very unlikely that you should be shifting @7500 - that's way beyond the powerband USUALLY when running meth due to the high boost unless you are running meth without cranking the boost. Even so, it's rare to have 7500 optimum shift points on the stock turbo. However, it's probably better to stay in 3rd if you have to shift right at the end. Actually, you really just need to hit the 1/4-mile, because the 1/8th isn't very useful all things considered.

 

soooo yeaaaah dont know whether to say thank you or whatever only had the car little over a month. mbc works pretty well for me, ppl just dont have the patient to adjust both adjustments, fmic has been proven to good on any car, and I dont know how the type-s is a poor bov (this is the second car its been on). But thanks for the advise about shifting (just because the avatar says noob dont get it twisted i know there is no way in hell I can say @ 7500 every gear).

a/f's were pretty squared away 12.0-11.7
timing was 8-15(starting @ 6k) I know I know i just put the ic on friday and my timing should of been alot higher starting @ 6k but didnt think to advance it. i get some knock when i was on the stock ic w/ meth remember I live in the panhandle of FL humdity is crazy around here.

 

Patience is not an issue. The TXS MBC is known to suck total *****. You just need a basic $85 Forge UNOS or Hallman Pro. The whole dual-stage thing is not as useful as you probably thought, because a Forge UNOS has clicks on the knob that make it easy to change from one setting to the next. It's not in the cockpit, but you only change boost when changing octane anyway, so it's not a big deal.

The Ebay FMIC has not been proven to be good. It has been proven to NOT be good on the Evo compared to good FMICs like Buschur and AMS. The BOV is also known to not be a good choice on the Evo. These are all things that we talk about over and over on this forum, so it's easy to dig up.

You're right, that timing can improve a lot, so keep playing with it. Humidity isn't so bad - it's the heat that's REALLY bad, and I know you have plenty of that, too.

 

hmm ok I see what your saying about the mbc (forgot to mention it came with the car). well last night did some pulls increase timing to about 18 starting @ 6k 0 knock still I was going to keep going but the misses wanted to eat LOL. It looks pretty good starting from 3500 to 5500 but 6k range need to be more aggresive. actually I just put a jdm mr bov on there yesterday as well( i dont why I pressed the agrument). your right boost felt so much smoother and held alot better. thanks for the advise

 

ha, already faster than me brandon. Ya, you should lose the bov and get a forge rs or aps. your probably losing boost through the bov. Im goin to be doing meth injection here sometime. goin with the snow kit. what is YOUR failsafe? i know the kit you made for you srt was working good

 

Greddy type s bov is a good bov. Just not for evos.

 

LOL whats up man, you following me. as of sunday I put the JDM MR BOV and WOW boost comes on smoother and it holds better. ++++ well I had no choice since my type-s finally went out on me. I notice boost was dropping alot @ redline, I notice there was a gab in the adjustment screw and the nut. So I begin to tighten it and the screw flew out LOL. The threads in the hat are scripped.

yeah its the same alky kit I made from my srt that I put on the evo.

 

here ya go kevin to my failsafe:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...=1#post4545000

 

following you? haha look at the post count buddy!!jk