I was just told to not shift until 7400rpms by a guy. Is this correct? I've shifted right at 7000 (redline) before when I've gone to the track..

Maybe this is why I can't dip into the 12's?

Thanks for any help!

 

I can check for you. I have the CarTest2000 program which calculates many things, one of which is optimum shiftpoints for acceleration.

However, I accidentaly deleted the Evo from the program by hitting a wrong button. I will download the Evo's settings again and run it to see what it says.

May be interesting to compare to someone's dyno if they have one.

 

Well, on a stock turbo with stock settings you should shift at 6500 or close to redline because you don't want your stock turbo to overwork itself. As you well know, our peak boost level is 19 but it goes down at higher RPMs. I never shift past redline because there's no point in going there when the powerband drops there. You wanna keep the engine up at it's peak power as much as possible.

 

right.. but if the revs go down below the peak (spooled ) point after you shift, then the turbo has to spool up again.. right?

i'm gonna try going just beyond 7000 a couple times next time i go to the track and see what happens..

so i see u ran yesterday huh? who'd u go with?

/emil

 

I shift at 7k everytime and launch at about 6200 and slip the clutch. Did a 12.9 this past saturday at route 66 with just a S-afc II with AMS settings, K&N drop in filter, HKS BOV VTA, Boost at about 21psi on race gas with ultimate racing test pipe on stock exhaust.

 

I shift at 7k everytime and launch at about 6200 and slip the clutch. Did a 12.9 this past saturday at route 66 with just a S-afc II with AMS settings, K&N drop in filter, HKS BOV VTA, Boost at about 21psi on race gas with ultimate racing test pipe on stock exhaust.

 

Hey midwestmonster, the ams safc 2 comes with the neccessary settings for the evo? Does it need additional tuning to get it running right? I wanted to get the safc2 and VTA BOV but it is hard to find a tuner where I live. thx

 

My AMS SAFC2 does not help the car much at all with the "safe" settings they sent me..... Of course, I'm not going to mess around and lean the car out to dangerous levels so I'll have to wait until i get a street or dyno tune with the wide band O2 sensor...
By the way, the track location, temperature, altitude and athmospheric conditions can make a huge difference in the 1/4 mile times. So far my times suck badly, (14's) but I expect with a bit of practice I can get into the 13's... Still, my trap speeds are just not that good either . I suspect that my car is one of those with the less powerful engines.

I hope to get the SAFC2 tuned properly soon and add the MBC as well. I can probably get a decent power increase with that. I already have the 3" cat back and the K&N filter....

 

You probably lost a couple psi of boost with the addition of the catback. The mbc should fix that.

 

That's an interesting theory. You might be right... It seems like when I had my WRX, it ran like stink after I added the MBC and the Unichip. Of course, the Unichip was crap because it caused driveability issues and also the ECU seemed to pull back timing when the unichip did it's thing ....

I've got the SAFC2 and the MBC but they are not installed yet.. I'm waiting to get my boost gauge and EGT gauge working before I start messing with the boost and the SAFC2. I'll see if it works as you say... it would be nice....

 

When I added the MBC to my car the difference was like night and day (my first mods were a K&N and the AMS catback).