heel and toe
#31
[QUOTE]Originally posted by urbanknight
it's doable, I've tried it. Can't say I do it smooth, let alone try it racing, but it's actually a traction control issue. If you just let the clutch out and the revs don't match your speed, you will brake loose and skid. Heel is on the brake, because that's the important part going into the corner, and you can leave the brake when it's time to really hit the gas. Although, now that I think about it, they were talking about RWD, not sure if it applies to FWD. Also, the article mentioned adjusting the pedels so the brake pedal fully depressed is lined up with the unpressed gas pedal. So how well this applies to street cars as compared to fully adjustable mini formula cars is questionable, but that's what SCCA calls hee-toe. [/QUOTE
I think he was refering to the fact he states "It involves using the toe on the gas (keeping the revs up as described earlier in this thread), the heel on the brake (since you are slowing down going into the corner), and the left foot clutch (cause you're shifting)" Ive never ever seen anyone put their heel on the brake and toe on the gas, its the other way around. Ball of your foot on brake heel blips gas.
it's doable, I've tried it. Can't say I do it smooth, let alone try it racing, but it's actually a traction control issue. If you just let the clutch out and the revs don't match your speed, you will brake loose and skid. Heel is on the brake, because that's the important part going into the corner, and you can leave the brake when it's time to really hit the gas. Although, now that I think about it, they were talking about RWD, not sure if it applies to FWD. Also, the article mentioned adjusting the pedels so the brake pedal fully depressed is lined up with the unpressed gas pedal. So how well this applies to street cars as compared to fully adjustable mini formula cars is questionable, but that's what SCCA calls hee-toe. [/QUOTE
I think he was refering to the fact he states "It involves using the toe on the gas (keeping the revs up as described earlier in this thread), the heel on the brake (since you are slowing down going into the corner), and the left foot clutch (cause you're shifting)" Ive never ever seen anyone put their heel on the brake and toe on the gas, its the other way around. Ball of your foot on brake heel blips gas.
#32
Originally posted by GMat
What you are describing is double-clutching.
What you are describing is double-clutching.
I used to do it the way you described it, but i felt more comfy letting go of the clutch while rev matching. I do it pretty fast, so its as if i was putting the clutch in under braking.
If i am doing something wrong tho, someone tell me.
#34
http://www.driftsession.com/glossary.htm
Heel-Toe Shifting
A drifting technique where the clutch is pressed with the left foot while the right foot presses the brake with the toes and the heel slides over to the accelerator to rev the engine up before downshifting the vehicle. (allows smooth downshifting, without jolting the vehicle)
Heel-Toe Shifting
A drifting technique where the clutch is pressed with the left foot while the right foot presses the brake with the toes and the heel slides over to the accelerator to rev the engine up before downshifting the vehicle. (allows smooth downshifting, without jolting the vehicle)
#35
http://www.modernracer.com/tips/leftfootbraking.html
"When approaching a corner, you should start slowing down like you normally do, using your right foot to apply the brake. At this point, you can use the heel-and-toe maneuver and downshift to the proper gear. Now, you should move your right foot over to the accelerator and your left foot to the brake at the same time. You are now ready to perform left-foot braking.
Continue slowing the car down to a reasonable - but not too low - speed by applying the brakes with your left foot. As you are about to turn into the corner, hit the gas with your right foot and keep braking with your left foot at the same time. Being a front-wheel-drive, the rear wheels will lock while the front wheels keep moving. The car's weight is transferred to the front, causing the front wheels to have more grip than the rear wheels. The car now starts to oversteer. "
"When approaching a corner, you should start slowing down like you normally do, using your right foot to apply the brake. At this point, you can use the heel-and-toe maneuver and downshift to the proper gear. Now, you should move your right foot over to the accelerator and your left foot to the brake at the same time. You are now ready to perform left-foot braking.
Continue slowing the car down to a reasonable - but not too low - speed by applying the brakes with your left foot. As you are about to turn into the corner, hit the gas with your right foot and keep braking with your left foot at the same time. Being a front-wheel-drive, the rear wheels will lock while the front wheels keep moving. The car's weight is transferred to the front, causing the front wheels to have more grip than the rear wheels. The car now starts to oversteer. "
#36
#40
Heel Toe Method is for road racing and you will find it really hard using this method on the streets unless you have sweeping roads (like on a mountain) or exiting an off ramp on the eway. The
whole purpose is to be able to keep the engine rpm in the powerband of the gear you need to accelerate out of while not upsetting the balance of the car. As some already know, the fastest exiting speed through a turn is when the car is flowing.
All you are trying to do is have the proper gear engaged at all times in the powerband for the speed you are going to start accelerating.
In order to do this you first have to be able to master at least
downshifting and matching the rpms when in full stride so to not jerk the car. Once you can do this, try it at the same time as braking smoothly.
whole purpose is to be able to keep the engine rpm in the powerband of the gear you need to accelerate out of while not upsetting the balance of the car. As some already know, the fastest exiting speed through a turn is when the car is flowing.
All you are trying to do is have the proper gear engaged at all times in the powerband for the speed you are going to start accelerating.
In order to do this you first have to be able to master at least
downshifting and matching the rpms when in full stride so to not jerk the car. Once you can do this, try it at the same time as braking smoothly.
#41
I'm not sure what you mean about it being hard to use this method on the streets--what I've been told is that until you can reliably do heel-toe downshifts while driving at slower speeds on the streets, you shouldn't even try it on the track.
I never downshift without heel-toe and double-clutching on street or track. It's good practice on the street, easier on the tranny, and it's fun even when just cruising around... (and it feeds the fantasy, we all know!)
I agree that it's probably easier to first practice synchronised downshifts without braking before trying heel + toe. If you're driving down a slower highway, try just shifting back and forth between fourth and fifth until you can do it with no lurch or clutch slip. clutch in, 5->N, clutch out, blip, N->4, clutch out. The tach needle should not move at all when you do the second clutch out. Then get braking involved, such as before a 90 degree turn around town or on a highway cloverleaf. Use a taller gear to keep the revs down until you get the timing down.
The one thing to watch out for when you first try it on the track in a street car is that the brake pedal will probably go down a lot further with hard track braking and some brake fade than in normal street braking, which may make it easier to blip the throttle (especially if you use the side of your foot like I do instead of your heel), but can also cause you to blip too much. The other really tricky thing is not reducing brake pressure when doing your blips--I still suck at this aspect. Supposedly using your heel for the blips is better in this regard, but it seems awkward to me.
According to that Skip Barber book, the name heel-and-toe supposedly came from really early cars (before synchomesh) that had the clutch on the left, brake on the right, and throttle between and below, so you would press the throttle with your heel and the brake with your toe when downshifting.
I never downshift without heel-toe and double-clutching on street or track. It's good practice on the street, easier on the tranny, and it's fun even when just cruising around... (and it feeds the fantasy, we all know!)
I agree that it's probably easier to first practice synchronised downshifts without braking before trying heel + toe. If you're driving down a slower highway, try just shifting back and forth between fourth and fifth until you can do it with no lurch or clutch slip. clutch in, 5->N, clutch out, blip, N->4, clutch out. The tach needle should not move at all when you do the second clutch out. Then get braking involved, such as before a 90 degree turn around town or on a highway cloverleaf. Use a taller gear to keep the revs down until you get the timing down.
The one thing to watch out for when you first try it on the track in a street car is that the brake pedal will probably go down a lot further with hard track braking and some brake fade than in normal street braking, which may make it easier to blip the throttle (especially if you use the side of your foot like I do instead of your heel), but can also cause you to blip too much. The other really tricky thing is not reducing brake pressure when doing your blips--I still suck at this aspect. Supposedly using your heel for the blips is better in this regard, but it seems awkward to me.
According to that Skip Barber book, the name heel-and-toe supposedly came from really early cars (before synchomesh) that had the clutch on the left, brake on the right, and throttle between and below, so you would press the throttle with your heel and the brake with your toe when downshifting.
#42
Not usable on the streets meaning for a 90 degree right hand turn. You would have no cars available, probably take the turn at 30 miles per hour so keeping the car in gear and at revs would be very for jerky for the car.
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