i've got the base mail-in-flash, but currently al doesn't offer it for the alky or i'd gone that route and then fine tune with afc. the map sensor mod is really simple once you get past the technical jargon. basically the rpm's are your (x) and your boost, which is represented in this case as throttle position on the afc, is your (y). if your greatest vacuum number is 15 inches and your tps reads 5% then you'd adjust your low throttle setting at 5% and if at 25psi of boost you tps reads 75% then you'd set your high throttle point at 75%. now with this set when you make adjustments on your afc for certain rpm ranges. you are not adjusting fuel based on throttle percentage, you are adjusting it on boost. so if your car need a little fuel taken away at 18psi at a given rpm then you'd make that adjustment and so on. if you are already familiar with the afc then it's easy to grasp, but if you are not familiar with it then i can understand how it would be confusing. with that said i still feel that there is more to gain by getting a custom tune from al. i unfortunately could not do that at this point in time. before i got my mail-in-flash i have always been tuning with my afc, but after the mail-in-flash i definitely noticed a positive difference in my tune with the flash over the afc. i feel this would be the same when tuning with alky. you can definitely tune this way for alky, but there is more to gain if you can get al to custom tune.

also i know what you mean about wv being a ghost town for tuners. i grew up in the huntington area and there is nothing around there as far as shops go.

 

ok i've went all over the car. checked compression, timing, and boost leaks. everything seems kosher. i did however jack the car up and listen to it idle while underneath it(prolly not the safest thing to do) and there is a loud rattle/ticking sound coming from what sounds like the transmission area. this is the only thing that i can associate with the vibrations inside the car. from up top listening to the engine it sounds fine aside from the rattle/ticking that i can hear coming from the bottom. the vibrations from the engine seem normal too. it's just when under the car things seem wrong.

 

Pull the front cover off and check the balance shafts - pull the oil pan and look at the bearings and oil

Just for the record - this was NOT the alcohol kit which I sell - but rather a cooling mist kit - right >?

 

correct this is not a kit from you. i just posted here because of the expertise on this side of the board. there were no signs of detenation. my knock meter didn't show signs of knock nor was there any lean spots in my fuel curve. i feel that this is more a coincedence that it happened when it did. i have narrowed it down to either the balance shafts or something in the clutch/flywheel area. i will also check the bearings and oil as a safety precaution, but don't think there is any problems there.

 

One time my flywheel came loose - (now I use lock tight)

 

***update***


i changed my t-case fluid and tranny fluid today. while i was under there i opened the inspection hole to gander in and a freaking rivet fell out. something is seriously wrong in the ol' clutch area. i guess the added torque from my mail-in-flash and then alky persuaded my clutch to start falling apart.

 

That's not good! It's probably a good thing you found it early on! Makes perfect sense though.

 

the only rivets in the clutch area are holding the disk together. Get that taken apart ASAP before that clutch disk comes apart and beats up your flywheel and pressure plate. you may be able to get away with just a new disk if you fix it before anything worse happens(assuming this is an aftermarket upgrade clutch that is in the car).

 

I have the best deals on the net on exedy twin clutches

 

You don't miss a beat Al! I wish I would have got the carbon twin instead of the ceramic

 

if i hadn't already bought one i would jump on it. i've had a new act sitting in my kitchen waiting to go in for some time now. i've just been putting it off. but i think this is prolly a good time to get my hands dirty.

 

This is not correct if your using the afc to tune the alcohol. You want your low throttle setting to be the same boost pressure as where your initial spraying of the kit starts, and you want the high throttle setting to be where the alcohol comes on at full pressure. So if you set it to start at 16 psi that should be your low setting on the afc, and full at 21 psi that should be your high. Other wise your afc is adjusting fuel settings in vaccum situations where there is no alcohol present, and also when you are in closed loop the ecu will compensate back any changes you make on the afc, which is what your base flash is for, afc should really only be used for wot tuning on top of the flash you have which takes care of the driveability.