Greetings All from the Land of Big Red...

I was formerly HuskerWRX and am now a convert, thus HuskerEVO! I am purchasing my EVO this weekend so I don't think I'll have time to hook up with Al's special this week.

My questions center around keeping my warranty intact but wanting to produce the most HP I can. I've done the searches but I'm looking for advice on an "optimal" setup for the Dynoflash.

I'm going to talk to the service manager prior to my purchase about the acceptance of a downpipe. I'm definitely going to do a catback. At this point I'm looking at the Buschur 2.5 DP (stock cat in place), possibly the Buschur catback (I like rumble), a K&N, and of course... A DYNOFLASH!

Is there anything else I can add that *should not* cause warranty problems? I'm pretty sure that an MBC is out. From the DYNOFLASH perspective, is there a minimal set of mods like the ones listed that would produce around 300HP?

I know I'm asking a lot but everything I've read has given me high expectations for the Dynoflash!

 

Hey, where did you get your car, Lincoln or Omaha?

 

I'm purchasing in Omaha, but the car I want isn't local. The dealership is doing a dealer trade.

 

All that stuff you want to do to your car shouldn't be a problem, and They won't be able to detect your dynoflash. You should also think about a boost gauge and a stainless steel clutchline. It won't make your car faster but you won't regret it. You could also get hyperground cables.

 

Boost Guage is on the list! ;D

 

Hmmm... one thing I didn't clarify was 300 WHP not 300HP.

Suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

 

My mods

Buschur MBC $75
HKS Hipower Catback 75MM $500
SP downpipe 75MM $278
Dynoflash $200
Autometer Boost Gauge with pod $99
Utimate Racing Highflowcat 3" $150
KN drop in Filter $70


Basically a full turboback with KN filter and Dynoflash will have an Estimated wheel hp around 290-310 at 21PSI

 

If you have the extra cash, go for HKS or Greddy catback. Burschur catback is a disgrace to the EVO. It looks like an steel pipe that someone bought out of home depot and crafted with a half-*** welding job. Some even have fitment problem and melted bumper. I saw this with my own eyes. I know busrchur will be **** off when he saw my post, but I'm just stating what I feel of their products. It's cheap, but what you pay is what you get. As for dp, the helix dp is the best bang for the bucks. Helix is making a revise version for the USDM EVO. It has some rattling issue, but that will be resolve with the next version. I have the current one and it rattles sometime. It's nothing you can't live with, but I will trade mine in for the newer version if adding an extra gasket at the cat wont solve the issue. As for the sound, the first time I heard the buschur exhaust note on an EVO, me and a couple of buddies thought it was some rice trying to hang with us. It sounds like you are running open downpipe. If you like it that loud, then go for it.

 

wow this is the first thread i have read on this site that bashed bushur and his products.

 

Disgrace? I wouldn't go that far.
One that you have to take your time aligning? Yes.
As far as making power, I don't think any other exhaust on the market comes close to the Buschur.
Half *** welding? Mind looks fine to my eyes with no leaks to date.

They also offer their turboback with a Magnaflow muffler, which is a bit quieter than the BR can.

It's also a true 3" turboback, which is more than you can say for the HKS, Fujitsubo, etc.

 

Well I wouldn't do the SS clutch line. That will void your warranty at some places. Definetly check first. As for exhausts I have a B&B on mine. It is a little louder than stock, but definetly not like
other exhausts out there. Then again the car is pretty loud stock too.

 

As for the negative remarks on the buschur exhuast, a few comments

I agree the first few production units were a bit rough in the fit and finish if you are used to ultra bling JDM look parts

However - every single Buschur Exhuast I have tested has out performed ANY other system on the market

The Buschur exhuast equiped evos typically make 10 - 15 dyno tested whp more than any other 3" system

WHY ? You can not beat 15 years of 4g63 experience of Buschur Racing

Finally - the new Buschur exhuasts that have been rolling out for the past 4 - 5 months fit really - VERY well and look fantastic

Also - the sound on the Buschur system is one of a kind and very special and unique - which may be some indication of why it makes so much power

Buschur parts are very good and show good taste and a smart owner who knows what works and what is all market hype and ricer mentality

 

Hi! Well, I wouldn't bother talking to Metro about mods. In fact I wouldn't even deal with Metro. They suck... everyone I've ever run into who's seen my Evo has asked me where I bought it. Every single time I tell'em "I bought it in Waterloo, IA (they had the closest blue) HOWEVER Williamson in Lincoln is GREAT!" (I do my servicing with them). To which they concurred saying "Metro sucks" !

Maybe they've changed their ways, but I doubt it. They were complete asses to me when I first walked in LONG ago when the Evo arrived in Nebraska. They literally *shrugged* me off!

As to an upgrade path, and keeping more to topic. Buy a turbo timer, boost gauge! Then I say go full 3 inch exhaust BR with high flow or test pipe. After that a reflash or piggyback...

Also, what color are you buying?

 

Congrats Husker on your new purchase. Get the buschur exhaust you will not be dissapointed, I have the full 3in turboback and it sounds sweet . A tad loud due to running the test pipe, but I like it loud. Dynoflash will be your best mod with this exhaust. Dont forget a boost controller

 

A boost controller would be great but he's worried about warranty. I don't think there's many dealerships out there that would ok a boost controller. Maybe a manual boost controller since that can easily be taken on and off.

About the service down at Williamson's, the guys there are great but I didn't think much of the service manager there. He became an *** when I told him about the paint chips behind the left rear door and the recall from before.