anybody know what the stock EGT's are? cruising or at full boost

 

My crusing egt's,while on highway,crusing at 3500 rpm's are aprox. 1100-1200f,and that is in closed loop where a/f ratios are in the 14:1 range,very lean,but the o2 sensor is doing it's thing.At WOT,with 4 people in car,Myself,Al=500lbs,and 2 other passengers=aprox 300 LBs,at a full 2nd,3rd,4th gear pull to red line in every gear,egt went to 1400f and stayed.
A/F ratio at 11.4:1,and timing was very conservative.I would say the dynoflash was working as advertised,very conservative,left room for some leaning out with a SAFC.BTW,this was done with 93 octane fuel,car fresh off the dyno.I guess the truth hurts some peoples feelings,oh well!!!!!!!!

 

[QUOTE=DynoFlash] IN MOST CASES it is imposssible to run excessive timing on Evo 8's as the factory ecu will hear engine noise and PULL timing in certain areas.

Interesting comment. I have one of those EVOs that are getting the p0300 "random engine-****in' misfire". It is driving me nuts...and for those of you who don't have it, spank your car while its not there.

My EGT's are about 1250F cruisin around 70mph (before the code "shudders" my car). When I come to a full stop, it settles down to about 850F. I guess it looks ok, judging from the posts i've read.
However, engine feels heavy....slowly accelerating, i would get a sudden "jerk"...exhaust is also starting to "pop" almost all the time....on WOT, (btw, i don't ever remember experiencing that sudden "flat-tire" sensation when i floor it) boost peaks at about 22-23psi...it used to be 20psi max.
So WTF is goin' on?
I have heard that the ECU "hears" a "harmonic resonance" somewehere, which triggers the SES.
Al, if you can guarantee that your magic will eliminate my p0300 nightmare, you have my business first thing Monday! Ok buddy

 

Bringing an old thread back to life here... at about 3000rpm cruising on the highway I see 1300-1320 degrees Fahrenheit. I have my egt probe tapped into my number one primary, passenger side one, right where the stock heat shield bolt used to go... What is the concensus?

 

Tapped the EGT probe into the Turbo's O2 housing so that if the probe fails it will not take out the Turbo with it.

Anybody else take this route installing an EGT sensor.?

 

I have 3 and 4 tapped in the manifold as close to the engine as I can. I did this in an effort to get a more reliable read on the in cylinder temps. I usually see high 1200's to low 1300's while cruising (70-80) and then climb into 1600-1700 range at WOT. There is about a 30-60 degree difference between the two probes (4 being higher) throughout the powerband. This is most likely due to the proximity of the probes to the wall of the manifold. I had some issues with keeping them from working themselves out under boost. Now I have a pretty reliable "constant" difference to monitor lean/rich conditions through.

 

Thats usually how I do it myself after seeing one turbo get eaten by a probe breaking off

Right now - I dont even have an egt on my car - I tune 100% with 02 sesnor, plugs and knock

 

Who was the manufacturer and what do you think caused the failure in the probe?
Have to ask as this is something I worry about.

 

Oh yeah and for those wondering why I would post in a Dynoflash thread it's because I haven't had enough money to get anything else on my ecu after my turbo died. Felt it was relevent to post here since a) I'm still running the dynoflash and b) seeing if the egt's I'm experiencing could have contributed to my hotside wheel looking like it got a little to close to the sun when it started coming apart...

 

So you are saying that my tuning has something to do with your turbo failure ?

If I remember correctly when I drove your car it was achiving some fairly significant compressor surge in 4th and 5th gear. It was interesting to see this on a fairly stock evo - (exhuast and mbc) as I have never seen it on any other evo with a stock turbo before. Also, it should be noted that at a dyno day in TX your car made 357 tq on a mustang dyno with no cams and the same stock turbo - a very impressive figure.

Here was your dyno sheet from before your last custom tune



Here is the thread about that dyno sheet

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ord+stock+cams

My theory is that on your car the wastegate actuator arm was adjusted on the tight side from the factory so that it was able to boost up very hard and make those serious tq numbers.

The compressor surge in 4th and 5th gear which was something I had never seen and still have never seen was another clue.

My point is, that in your case your turbo was working over time - it was either a very unqiue individaual turbo or it was a tightly adjusted wastegate actuator

When you run a car with lots of power over an extended perior of time - it is possible that things may fail. From what I can remember I think you have quite a few miles on your car.

BTW - as an aside - if anything your car has LOW EGT's with the Dyno Flash - I run very rich a/f and advanced timing numbers which = low egts - this is on full throtle

When your crusing on the highway - its CLOSED LOOP settings with specified a/f targets 14.6 (I dont change those) and timing (I dont change that either. I have your map right here in my cpu and have reviewed this to veify it is corect.

 

JUST for your information in your dyno flash tuned ecu 3,000 rpms crusing on the highway is CLOSED LOOP operation and the ecu is using the set default settings - 14.6 a/f and specified ignition timing

The Dyno Flash does not change the settings until you start to build load on OPEN LOOP operation

 

Cool so my car's egt's seem ok through my other research. There was a huge miscalibration error on that Mustang dyno "my man". Everyone else that has seen the sheet since has agreed upon that, MZM will even tell you that some major adjustments have been made since. You just admitted that you in good conscience tuned my car with a failing turbo, happy that getting that last buck out of my broke *** was so important... awesome Oh and thanks for all the kind words you said about me at your Houston tune in early December "bro"

 

I was not there to calibrate or adjust the mustang dyno - all I know about the dyno sheet you provided is what you told me, that your car made the most power over the other evos which were there at that dyno day. Personally, its just for reasons like this that I dislike the dynos which that can be "adjusted." I prefer the dyno jet so you know what the number means when you see it. Still, after driving your car I dont think that dyno was very far off one way or the other. Certainly if it was reading high I guess that just means the others there that day with other tuner's products were reading even lower!

BTW - I did not as you say "You just admitted that you in good conscience tuned my car with a failing turbo," On the contrary, when i drove and tuned your car it was running perfect - pulling super hard. It just had a bit of compressor surge when you loaded it up in a tall gear at low rpms, which is common on many big turbo cars. It was just odd that it was doing this on a stock turbo. Like I said, it was unusual and I pointed it out to you at the time. It was obvious that your car was extremely fast for the mods its had. The first time I tuned your car with the stock fuel pump it was able to easily max out the injectors with the stock cams - a very strong individual car. Usually we never max out the stock injectors on cars without cams - a good indication that your car was making very strong power as confirmed by the dyno sheet.

When I tuned it the 2nd time, I told you that your car was pulling super hard. Hardly a "failing turbo." I think all you had to do was have your wastegate arm re-adjusted and it would have been fixed. Just a theory of course. (It could have also been an out of balance wheel, bad thrust bearing, a bent fin or other unknown reason). Another major culprit in these situations is aftermarket BOV's -check out this thread for some discussion of other members here who experienced compressor surge from BOV's set to tight - https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ar.../t-114874.html. From what you posted atthe time I tuned your car - this was your BOV setting - "Forge diverter valve, new piston design, green spring with 3 washers" I still think it was the wastgate actuator set too tight but you may want to try and set the bov a bit looser.

Is your new turbo still surging - or did that go away with the new turbo ?


As you know, when I am tuning a car, I am not doing mechanical diagnosis and taking things apart. I simply flash the ecu for the proper a/f and timing settings. If a car holds boost properly through the power band its fine to be tuned. Your car was holding a nice steady boost. You had plenty of time to look into the turbo surging issue since last spring May of 2004 when I drove your car in Dallas and informed you of the compressor surging issue and December 2004 when your turbo blew up at the Turbo Tricks dyno day - thats 7 months. 7 full months of use it lasted for - hardly a "failing turbo." When I reach the point that I can predict that a customer's turbo will blow up 7 months later I think I will retire from tuning and start playing the lotto.

Its sad that you had a problem with your turbo but not fair to try and blame me for the problem.

At this rate, soon people will be blaming me when their tires wear out faster than expected or when they get a speeding ticket

 

I could care less about the turbo having failed at this point, that's done and a solution has been found. My problem was with you telling me things like not to get on the car in 5th gear after your tune. I remember the look on your face when it surged, looked like you needed a change of underwear. I'm done, point being watch your *** when having the vehicle tuned. One more thing, to clarify, my car was at the Turbo Trix tune day, but aside from a compression test of the turbo system NOTHING was done to my car, hell it didn't even get on the dyno. Good luck to all and goodbye.

 

Thanks for the clarifications.

Obviously if you saw an alarmed look on my face when hearing your car compressor surge it was good grounds to investigate the cause and correct it before it took out the turbo 7 months later. I told you NOT get on it in 5th gear to avoid creating compressor surge until you diagnosed and corrected the problem (which was a mechanical issue) and clearly you did not follow my advice.

Glad you have it starightend out now. Obviously not an EGT related subject.