Well i just got my DynoFlash at Pruven by BIG AL. Now before anyone tries to talk trash, i just want to post my Dyno Slips, and i would also like to mention i drove about 3 /12 hours(traffic) and i must say it was well worth it. Al definitly knows what he is doing. So please dont leave any negative replies, i dont need to hear it, cause it pointless. As for now, i will be posting my slips up tomorrow cause i left my digital camera at a friends house, but i will be giving you the numbers now.


So i get on the dyno with the Following mods:

Racing O2 housing to a 3" back exhaust. Hallman MBC @ 20Psi and a Helix Test Pipe, and stock air box with stock filter and walbro 255 fuel pump.

My first 2 Pulls before a flash came out to be 243.6WHP and 250.1 Torque. Right away Al noticed a problem in my performance. I had NGK spark Plugs installed that were gapped too much, so of course i replaced them. And a bit of a boost leak, but no worries, AL was right on top of it and fixed my issue.

3rd Pull after flash and fixed issues came out to be 279.9WHP and 303.0 Torque. I was happy to see such a jump in power. But Big Al wasnt done yet.

4th Pull- came out to be 286.2 WHP and 304.2 Torque. Again, a smile on my face, thats been there since i arrived at pruven.

5th and final pull came out to be 288.9 WHP and 307.1 Torque. Wow is what i was thinking after that. So we jumped in the car for a test drive and let me tell you, the power difference was like night and day. I felt like my car went from Hero to Super Hero, and i still cant believe the power i have gotten. All i will say is Al knows his stuff, and he has me as a customer for life. But the best part is, it was pretty damn humid and was pretty warm out. So i think with better weather conditions and a intake, i feel confident that Al will beak the 300WHP line.

Al thanks for your professional experience, its was fun and i am loving all the power you got out of my car. See you again.

Mark.

 

Man, that's awesome! Al is the man!

 

 

Thanks for the kind words.

Its amazing in this buisness no matter how many times you tune the same car with the same parts you can always learn something new if you keep your eyes open and allow your self to react to what the car is showing you

The best part of tuning for me is solving the puzzle of each car and figuring out how to trouble shoot what is keeping it from making the power. Some cars of course just fall in line with no issues. But more often than not something is wrong with the part's installs or there is some other imbalance in the system which needs to be corrected before optimal results can be obtained.

In this case a few things were making the car come in with very low whp for a car with an exhuast and a boost controller. When ever we see that in the start I figure its going to be a challenge to find the power thats just waiting to be found.

When you become a profesional tuner its up to you to figure these problems out and people are looking at you expecting to see a nice looking dyno sheet with some whp on it and you have to use your brain and experience to figure out what is wrong and how to fix it. Through experience you start to see common themes and learn to spot familiar patterns. For example, how to tell the differnce betewen misfire from bad plugs and hitting fuel cut or detonation. Sometimes the cars are running so badly that even I wonder if the car is ever going to make any power.

Its hard when you see stock cars having detonation and rough dyno sheets with the base lines and then you have t find a way to smooth it out and make more power - all while making sure the tune is 100% safe and durable.

In this case - a nail in the tire with 9 psi tire pressure, the wrong spark plugs and too big a spark plug gap all conspired to battle us to 50 plus ft lbs of trq gains with our simple reflash.

On the dyno the car was holding perfect boost and the curve was as smooth as a lake - however during the test drive the fast spool up was causing the bov to leak badly

In the case of this car the process took almost 3 full hours from start to finish to tune it. Its critical when tuning that you take the time to go through the whole process from base line to final road testing step by step every time. Rushing through the job leaves loose ends that can come back to bite you in the tail. This is why we charge a flat fee for our custom tuned flash and we have an agreement with the dyno shop that we can take as long as we need on the dyno until both the customer and myself are 100% satisfied with the results

I tune each and every car as if they are going to take the car off the dyno go to another tuner and re-test the tune and post the dyno sheet on this forum. I make sure that the tune is smooth, powerful and safe each and every time.

I learned something new on this car. DO NOT hook your MBC into the BOV line. It seems the MBC opening is causing enough of a pressure drop to actrivate the BOV which is resulting in falling boost on the street

Solution - tap the input to the MBC directly from the turbo discharge pipe nipple. REMOVE the factory boost lines and cap off the line going into the underneath of the intake pipe.

Tapping the MBC to the turbo discharge gives you a much more stable boost and prevents BOV fluxuations

 

So again, a word to the comminuty. Choosing a tuner isnt about reputation of a 9.95 second car, or a tuner with a car in a magazine, but actually putting your trust into someone who takes pride in what they do, and dont stop till the job is done right. Sure i can dump $10,000 into my EVO and run 10's 9's or whatever. But the main thing your buying is performance along with peace of mind that the job was done right. Al has provided this service for me, and as it says, its Pruven to work. Dynoflash all the way!

-Mark-

 

 

Nothing wrong with being in a few magazines!!!!!!!!!

You would be suprized actually - there are a lot of magazines out there that can disntinqish between fast road cars and drag monstosities

Its just too bad that it seems the readership on this particular web site is more impressed with raw drag times. To me HOW you get the drag times and what you did to the car to get the drag times is just as important as the actual times. For example a 6 second top fuel funny car is not very impressive.

I am still the fastest Evo on standard street radials and there is no way in hell that I am going to destroy an amazingly well balanced and enjoyable road car like an evo by throwing on bias ply drag slicks and small breaks, removing suspension parts and gutting the car of its a/c, power steering and running an ice filld liquid intercooler only good for drag racing.

I strongly believe that in time the readership on this forum will be come shopisticated enough- in time - to draw a distinction between a gutted, purpose built drag only car and a fast road car on street tires and with all original equipment. However ight now it seems only a raw time slip is what is resonating with the readers here. This is regretable. However, I have no desire or intention to mutalate my own Evo in order to play catch up to the drag monstrosity evos.

My own personal goal is a fully functional road driving evo with all its original equipment and functions - eg a/c, power steering, eletric windows, door locks, suspension and brembo breaks etc etc which can run multiple 10 second drag passes on street radial tires and then drive back home again on its own power (not in a trailer)

So far this season , I have been to about 10 full drag event weekends with multiple passes in the 11.1 - 11.2 range and our fully built race motor is still in one piece and working 100% with almost 12,000 miles on it. To me that is impressive - - NOT blowing up one motor per race and failing to finish the race, leaving before the race ends in a trailer (not very impressive)

As a tuner I am trying to show that we can successfully tune a car for extreme performance that can last a long time and produce consistant results in a reliable manner.

There are a couple of magazine features on my car hitting news stands next month and there already was some magazine coverage on it last year - check October Modified Magazine, 2003 and December Turbo Magazine, 2003

 

Glad your happy! Nice results!

 

FINALLY! Someone else who has seen the same thing I have been for some time..

I also found that although the boost can spike at times if you continue to tap off the discharge pipe, the level boost is higher, and more stable BEFORE the intercooler, thats why mitsubishi uses the second restrictor to prevent spiking.. ANYWAY..

I always had my MBC installed that way, so I never noticed a problem until I installed the Buschur Intercooler and lower pipe (the new pipe didn't have a nipple provision for the stock boost solenoid) and I was getting boost taper on the street no matter what I did, I was convinced it was a defective 1G crushed DV. Turns out the stock boost solenoid is a bleed system and it was also bleeding too much pressure from the DV.. so you'd get boost tapering plus a bit of unstable boost. In my case, the stock boost solenoid (I'm using a UTEC) would bleed off just enough pressure to allow to blow open at boost pressures of about 19 psi. So I'd get a spike at 23psi and drop to 17psi..

Just my two cents.. Great job Al.. I'm glad I'm not insane (well, most of you guys will say I am, but at least in this case I'm not)

 

Hey Mark I told ya you would be happy if you went to al. I'm glad we went up there.... told you he would get the power for you......I can't wait till my car gets put back together...and we can go to the track.......Good job al see you when my car is together for my reflash.........

 

Yea yea, i was stressed that day man, i didnt get much sleep, but im happier than O.J Simpson after his trial. But i cant wait for your car to come back to the road, we are going to have some fun Chris.

 

Did you re-route the boost controller lines yet and see if the boost leak is fixed???

 

Hey Al, think you can toss me a couple DynoFlash.Com decals, i would like to advertise your product/service on my car. I need 2 good sized ones to go on my sideskirts.

 

No not yet, i just woke up, was a long trip home and i was exhausted. But i will be doing it later today, i have to get some more vacuum hose from autozone. Ill let you know as soon as i do.

 

Get some plastic vac caps also to cap of the fitting on the bottom of the black platic intake tube

If you take the intake off and the rad fan you can get at everything very easy and simple

Just make sure you keep the boost lines away fron the fan cover its sharp - use large zip ties to secure them to he plastic black intake tube