Unable to break 26psi
What's the best/safest method for 'crushing' the bov? Petey T, where do get the recirc tial? All I've seen are the open atmosphere ones. I think a buschur MBC and new or crushed bov is in my future. I was looking at bov's and it was hard to find some that will hold over 25psi.
What's the best/safest method for 'crushing' the bov? Petey T, where do get the recirc tial? All I've seen are the open atmosphere ones. I think a buschur MBC and new or crushed bov is in my future. I was looking at bov's and it was hard to find some that will hold over 25psi.
In order to use that beautiful tial I would have to get the v-band welded on to my upper IC pipe. Money is relatively tight right now and I'm looking for the cheapest way for a temporary solution to my issue. If that's what I have to do then that's what I have to do. Anyone tried the turboxs valves, especially the reversable one?
I know my boost issues have to do with gearing and rpm at the track as well, but say if I set my boost for 27psi and go out on the highway, I can hear the BOV sound like it is almost surging after 25psi and letting air through even at lower RPM's..When I get a new BOV I am going to put the dyno in drag mode and do an overlay of my boost logs and see if it makes a difference..My guess is it will not but I still think it leaks..
I know my boost issues have to do with gearing and rpm at the track as well, but say if I set my boost for 27psi and go out on the highway, I can hear the BOV sound like it is almost surging after 25psi and letting air through even at lower RPM's..When I get a new BOV I am going to put the dyno in drag mode and do an overlay of my boost logs and see if it makes a difference..My guess is it will not but I still think it leaks..

I had my personal evo tuned for 28psi peak, then I crushed the BOV and it hit 33-34psi peak with no other changes, which meant it was leaking the whole time.
I saw a post on the internet where they used a vacuum gauge to measure opening vacuum pressure and then gradually crushed using a vice or Large c-clamp. I imagine if you crush too much the seam on top of bov could burst or maybe even too much spring pressure. Here is alternative method. I would like to know how these methods have worked for Evo drivers.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=260029
thinking my stock 9 bov was not right I bought a used APS bov and it is not even holding 20psi
What about Synapse ? They claim 100 psi and use turbo sideconnection to hold valve closed
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=260029
thinking my stock 9 bov was not right I bought a used APS bov and it is not even holding 20psi
What about Synapse ? They claim 100 psi and use turbo sideconnection to hold valve closed
other alternative to crushing is the Dejon leak stop kit.
I've tuned a couple evos with it and they work great.
Towards the bottom of the page:
http://all.dejonpowerhouse.com/edit/A-04.htm
I've tuned a couple evos with it and they work great.
Towards the bottom of the page:
http://all.dejonpowerhouse.com/edit/A-04.htm
Boost controll all the way in with a stiff spring..would spike over 30+psi with about 4 fewer turns from a roll..
I just found a spring kit for the MBC on forge website for $15. I'll try the springs and if that doesn't work then it's definitely the BOV. Question- if I had shot throttle body shaft seals would my car be able to boost to this level of 25/26psi? Crap, I just realized the springs are for the BOV, not the MBC.
Last edited by lan_evo_mr9; Nov 20, 2008 at 03:54 PM.








