I think we have the same. Max is 43 it seems.

 

thanks for all the info guys.....so im seeing that a few counts is ok but im still going to try to tune it out just to be safe....

 

I know that back in the DSM day we alway tried to keep knock count around 7. More than that and the computer would pull alot of timing. No knock and the car wouldn't reach it's full potential. The most power is gonna be on the edge where there is a slight amount of knock activity, but not enough to trigger the computer to yank all your timing. My 12.1 @117mph on the stock turbo and 93 octane only was not a knock free event. There was no evoscan at that time, but my knock light was showing slight knock at the big end of the track. Slight being the key word.

 

that makes perfect sense.

 

As far as I'm concerned ARP's are a waste of time and money. I run them on my eclipse and hate them. The OEM quality is on par with ARP's, however when rebuilding a medium HP motor ARP's studs provide a more even torque clamping than OEM bolts. I would NEVER switch out OEM's to ARP's. I'd wait for a HG problem to arise on the stock factory seal then replace when needed. When replacing their are other MUCH MUCH MUCH better higher quality alternatives to ARP's.

I like the factory seal also because its a fuse. With factory internals I'd like my HG fuse to blow before I send a rod flying or break a piston. HG repairs are easy. Fixing holes in blocks are not. If you upgrade your HG seal then you should have upgraded rods/pistons.

 

More mean cylinder pressure applied to the crank does not always equate to more noise. Actually some motors get less noise amplitude under higher load.

Furthermore, the stock knock filters not only pick up a certian amplitude, they pick up noise at a certian angle of crank rotation and of, and this is important, a specific frequency spectrum. That is VERY important. This is why if you bang on your block with a hammer when idling the car doesen't pull timing and stall the motor. Log it, you'll see.

Also, the background noise at the detonation frequency is failry mild. Sure, you can get a few blips of knock with drivetrain noise on a shift, no biggie. What is interesting though is how much LOUDER (more amplitude) a detonation pulse is than allmost anything else in the car. On some cars you can hear it IN THE CAR its so loud!

Lastly, I trust the knock sensor filters because its my main tool I use on my DSM. Now that I have an EVO I see that it operates exactly as the DSM does. My DSM is making 3X the power it did when stock, and with unchanged knock filters I can make a quarter mile pull with zero knock! Now if what you said was true, the mere fact that I'm making so much power over stock would mean that I would see artifical knock, but I do not.

Hope this helps...........

 

Try a detcans.

I can see 10-15 knock counts on evoscan without any knock noise in the earings.

So like many other guys already say. Using only the stock knock sensor is certainly not the best way to fine tune an evo.

But we must take these infos in consideration. Mostly for the timing pulling problem.

 

i have never heard knock from in the car but i have seen knock counts. even with 5 knocks it pulls timing a little bit.
my friends stock evo gets almost 20 knock counts and it never blows up but it is pulling timing.

 

36 is the highest I have seen. I think there is a rattle somewhere as it happens at cruise.

 

I did a quick 3rd gear pull yesterday, saw a decaying KS starting at 4 (just after MBT). With a KS of 4 it did pull 2 degrees of timing, but as the KS dropped timing was never pulled again. Also during this section of the pull, the octane number rose steadily, despite the knock. The octane number was low from a previous pull that had a fair amount of knock. Once it stops raining I'll see about tuning those areas a bit.

 

what is a good unit to detect knock and monitor it. knock link?? witch one. or what else is out there.

 

Knocklink is good, but anything that you can use a headset with and listen with the old "Wet discriminator" (aka your brain) will reveal alot to you..

I have a turboXS Tuner Pro, it has a knock sensor you can bolt onto the block wherever you want, but at the least you can hear whats going on..

 

well i just want it for when they tune my car and for my own use while driving. just that added safty you know. like a wideband. used for tunning and to see whats going on while driving . so i dont want to drive around with a headset. lmao.

 

On my car the octane rating falls when the KS is at or above 6. Anything below 6 KS and the octane rating is not affected.

 

in my case it takes 7 counts to alter the octane number, and over 4 to alter my timing.. 3's don't tend to affect timing unless it occurs 3 samples or more in a row..