I know I've gotta search but wanted to post this and ask a few questions.

I can see that I am getting steady knock counts starting at about 4100 RPM and tapering right up until I let off.

First of all should I start by just backing off on the timing where this is occurring?

Second, why are the “AirVol” values all over the place? The “Airflow” values seem to be real steady but the vol numbers are pretty screwy.

Third, do I need to learn to edit the xml file to change what items get logged (without unchecking them each time)?

Thanks in advance, I will be searching but wanted to get some feedback from the users who already know all this stuff.

Thanks in advance,
Bob

Here's a jpg of the log . . .

 

timing is backing up... do u have a wideband?

 

No, no wideband. I just got the laptop and the Evoscan software.

 

add some more fuel and see if the timing goes back to normal

from 100-230 load 2500 rpms to 7500 rpms

and do a pull to 7500, 6100 is too low

cheers!

edit actually just stick with between 180 and 240 load for now take everything down abotu .4 and see how much that helps.. if theres still knock add a little more fuel then see where your at. and show us the pull from 2500-7500

cheers!

 

Thanks 4 Wheel Slide,

More noobness here, to add fuel I would select the cells in say the high octane map and reduce these values? Lower number = more fuel / lower AFR or

 

yep lower numbers mean more fuel... higher numbers mean less fuel...

if u wanan email it to me, i can make the adjustments for you... doing nothing better =-p

pm me

 

Thanks Man I'd like to see the before and after. I'm still paranoid at the thought of screwing with the ECU map!

 

I dont know how to attach a file

 

Hi

Running 8 deg advance at4K rpm is quite a bit, what map do you have in there, can you post a screen of the timing map, or if it's from a pro tuner tell us the values at 4K 5k 6k 7k RPM in the 220 and 240 load cells. My perferance is to go for a conservative timing map to start with, get the fuel on the rich side of good and work from there.

MB

 

Where are you getting airvol from? A calculation or a particular requestID? I've never seen that before, but if thats accurate then it would imply your airflow is all over the place, and it doesnt look that way..

Anyway, your timing is WAY too high below 5500rpm, with 5-6 knock counts, that would mean your timing is 7-9 degrees or so, which is pretty high for peak boost levels over 19psi and likely the culprit of your knock. Without a wideband I can't even feel safe recommending adding/removing fuel, or even making adjustments, but you can pretty safely reduce the peak timing a bit until you can have it properly tuned.

Oh and my guess is one or more of your mods is reducing the airflow number a bit.. By doing that your car runs in slightly lower load sites and can run higher timing for that reason (in the stock maps, lower airflow would put you into lower load cells, which typically have higher timing values than higher load cells).

Aftermarket intakes and filters frequently cause that, if your running 21psi of boost peak, and your load is less than 200, then this is likely why your getting knock.. Because the airflow reading ends up lower than expected, the AFR may be leaner than desired, and timing may be a little higher than desired.. But it depends alot on the physical layout of the numbers on your maps, which means it depends on the tune and tuner..

 

Thanks for the info Jack,

Here's a screen cap of the Evoscan screen. It seemed weird that the AirVol value was all over the place.

I am running an APS cold air intake, stock boost levels.



I am going to do a few pulls today and will post the log files.

Thanks for the help,
Bob

Edit: I just noticed that the AirVol item has no units???

 

Hi

The APS intake will definatly affect the way the MAF is reading the air volume as MJ describes above. You would need to log your fuel trims to see the effect and juge what corrective measures to take.

I would recommend re fitting the stock air box as the current set up is causing you to run far to much ignition advance. If you think the stock air box is restricting the cars performance, you would be better searching for the air box mod, this is just cutting a part of the side of the stock air box lid.

The Evos induction is quite sensetive to changes and usualy not for the better, unless you re-scale the MAF to compensate. There are a lot of people running 300whp on a stock setup.

MB

 

Thanks for all of the tips. The tune was a mail in and was done for the mods on the car. The log I did last night was the first ever. I am going to do a couple more pulls and then start by backing off on the timing in the problem areas and see how it reacts.

The car runs like a hit dog but I want the tune to be safe. I'm one the (way) older Evo owners on here and the car will never see a track day or the drag strip.

Bob