Timing at idle- log
Timing at idle- log
I'm just wondering, why is the timing all over the place on this log, the car sounds a little odd warming up, like a misfire almost, but smooths right out when its warm.
The timing on this hits lower than the map has, my lowest advance in the load columns for these loads and rpm is 7... why do I see 6 on here, and I think 3 once!?
Mods are mbc, flash, comp280s, 3"tbe, o2 housing
The timing on this hits lower than the map has, my lowest advance in the load columns for these loads and rpm is 7... why do I see 6 on here, and I think 3 once!?
Mods are mbc, flash, comp280s, 3"tbe, o2 housing
Possible exhaust leak at the O2 housing jacking up the O2 sensor readings. Or maybe the O2 sensor is jacked (I didn't look at the log). You are running some pretty big cams which generally makes it a little tougher to idle.
Definitely the cams are the cause. I have 272's and have been messing with numerous different setting to smooth the idle. It will idle smooth to the ear, but the timing jumps on the logger.
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a majority of the idle problems are actually engine vacuum and MAF related. If you can keep the airflow up through the MAF, the idle will be much smoother.
Another key point is to spend time making minor adjustments, your DV Opening and closing at idle depending on its seat/spring pressure will alter the airflow and cause dips, your Idle speed needs to be a minimum of 1000rpm and your fuel trims at idle needs to be very close to optimum so it never has to reset trims.
I never needed to touch my idle timing with 280 cams in my car. I have a stable MAF reading at ~37hz using my blowthrough setup.
Another key point is to spend time making minor adjustments, your DV Opening and closing at idle depending on its seat/spring pressure will alter the airflow and cause dips, your Idle speed needs to be a minimum of 1000rpm and your fuel trims at idle needs to be very close to optimum so it never has to reset trims.
I never needed to touch my idle timing with 280 cams in my car. I have a stable MAF reading at ~37hz using my blowthrough setup.
a majority of the idle problems are actually engine vacuum and MAF related. If you can keep the airflow up through the MAF, the idle will be much smoother.
Another key point is to spend time making minor adjustments, your DV Opening and closing at idle depending on its seat/spring pressure will alter the airflow and cause dips, your Idle speed needs to be a minimum of 1000rpm and your fuel trims at idle needs to be very close to optimum so it never has to reset trims.
I never needed to touch my idle timing with 280 cams in my car. I have a stable MAF reading at ~37hz using my blowthrough setup.
Another key point is to spend time making minor adjustments, your DV Opening and closing at idle depending on its seat/spring pressure will alter the airflow and cause dips, your Idle speed needs to be a minimum of 1000rpm and your fuel trims at idle needs to be very close to optimum so it never has to reset trims.
I never needed to touch my idle timing with 280 cams in my car. I have a stable MAF reading at ~37hz using my blowthrough setup.
I am still running the stock DV, I hadn't seen any trouble with it that I could tell, so I just left it alone and figured if it failed I could replace it then.
I also am possibly interested in a blowthrough maf setup... maybe I'll have to do that sooner than I thought.
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