I just installed my Ebay filter with a custom cold air box (read an 8x8x8" cardboard box from UPS). With my Forge RS BOV, it sounds like a freakin' VTA BOV

Now people are going to think I'm a ricer

We'll see what Bryan thinks of my set-up when he tunes it this Saturday.

 

You are right it is not worth it. You only need it when you start making more power. Untill then it is a waste of money. Not to mention it is TOO noisy. I personally hate how loud it is. The respectful member of society that i am i now have to make an effort to shift at lower boost when i drive through residential areas. Hate it.

The test is here to show that Ebay filter will not throw off MAF anf you will stay in correct load columns. I guess it does look like it runs richer, although it did not make much difference in AFR's for me for some reason. It's NOT a test to show that "Ebay filter makes power for anybody"

 

You ain't kidding about the LOUD. I have to look out for cops now more than ever

 

NJ,

I know that your intake temps weren't that high, but it just dawned on me that in the 2g ECU timing would get pulled for certain coolant temps and certain intake temps.

For example, 1 * of timing would be pulled for coolant temps >206*F and 2* would be pulled for > 224*F.

For intake temperatures, it is as follows (from the DSMLink creators):

"Intake temperature will also cause a reduction in ignition advance. The tables are laid out like so, with interpolation occuring between the points.

2G intake air temp ignition advance adjustment:

185F = -3°
132F = -2°
100F = -1°
73F = 0
48F = 0
20F = -1°
-23F = -2°

1G intake air temp ignition advance adjustment:

185F = -3°
132F = -1°
100F = 0
73F = 0
48F = 0
20F = -1°
-23F = -2°
"


So, if the Evo ECU uses the same logic (not sure if this portion has been disassembled), then 1 degree of timing can be pulled if the intake temps reach 100*F with interpolation between 73-100*F , or whatever value the Evo ECU uses.

So, this may explain some of the lower timing numbers from an open cone intake. As IAT approaches a certain value, the ECU will begin to pull timing. I think the ECU can work in fractions of degrees, too, but our loggers just display whole numbers. So, it would be easy to see a 1* timing change in our loggers if the IAT increased passed this value.


Eric

 

are you serious?..people are woried about intake noise..rofll..wtf did you buy an evo?...and i bet yall have exhaust also..keep the car stock then..lol

 

Here in California, it is wise to keep as low a profile as possible, especially if you're modified. No unnecessary attention from the po-po is highly desirable.

 

I know what you mean. This thing gets loud whenever you cross 3000 rpm @ about 50% throttle. It and it gets even louder as the rpms climb.

Here in CA, it is dangerous to have a loud car. With all the reading about crackdowns by the police on modded cars, I made the decision to remove my ebay filter and go back to stock. The small hp gain and the high IAT made the decision acceptable.

I swapped out my boost lines and installed the boost lines with the #65 pill. I started messing with the boost today. My aim is 21 psi @ peak and holding to 20 psi all the way to cutoff on 91 pisstane.

 

Anyone have a sound clip of this? I really have to hear how loud this is now...its not so bad in WA but I like to keep the car nice and quiet.

"Silent Violence" as we say at home

 

Are you using the old Buschur (ebay) filter or one of the blue ones?

 

My real concern was the increased IAT. No way that is acceptable. You hit it right , NJ. You would have to construct an airdam to help reduce the IAT, but for very little gain, whats the point?

I'll stick with my K&N dropin panel, thanx.

Milburn

 

absolutely it's worth it and the gains will be more pronounced as you add more mods

 

Anybody thought about mounting this thing in the stock airbox? I was thinking that a cone filter in the stock airbox and maybe cut a rectangular hole and mount panel filter like KN drop in? I realize others have put a cone filter in an airbox I wonder what the results are/were? The box would serve to keep IAT down along with noise.

If I run a conical filter in the airbox of my wifes Audi it is definitely quieter than w/o airbox and cone filter but it is still too loud for my wife (noisier due to more flow than panel filter?) As far as power is concerned with and without box I do not know how much difference (if any) there is as I do not log her car. Seat of the pants you can't really tell.

The fact the AFR's change does indicate more flow via ebay/conical filter as the maf sensor reads more airflow and adjusts fueling right?

 

All you need is a cardboard box from UPS. Cut it to fit. That is my new "cold air" set-up. I kept the top part of the airbox and painted the cardboard box black. It looks stock when you pop the hood. You get air from the stock ram-air set-up and you go to Home Depot to get some tubing to direct cold air to the underside of the box.

I should really take pics. Razorlab will see this inexpensive set-up on Saturday. I can't claim the idea to be my own, though. WOT showed me his idea...then again, he's the one who has built CART, IRL and other engines for a living

 

I think malibujack did a write up long ago on how to fit the BR filter inside the stock box with a little hacking, this filter is the same size so it should work out the same

 

I have had on my to do list to fab a cold air intake.

I got my idea from here.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=173392

atlvalet - Put up yor pics of the "UPS cold air intake".