I've got a 9 with what I consider a perfect tune. The car is simply a treat to drive. I have only one gripe and that is how the car feels when its cold.

My car starts right up and idles fine. It drive fine too but I notice this grumpy feel to it when its cold. This "hesitation" happens under very light throttle from 2500-3000 rpm WHEN COLD. Most noticeable at 20-25mph. If I drive the car hard and keep the RPMs above 3500 then I don't notice it but I like to take it easy on the car until its up to temp. Once the car warms up it drives perfect no matter what the rpm or load.

I've logged this issue and noticed that my cold start driving timing is about half of what I have it marked for in ECU MAP1. The timing that I see doesn't correspond to any of my timing maps. At first I thought it was due to aggressive mivec maps but after reflashing the stock mivec map the strange timing was still present.

I'm wondering if the emissions routine is dicking with my cold tune. If so is there a way to interupt this behavior?

 

I've noticed the same thing

 

Let the car warm up. seriously most cars run different when cold. I noticed your in WI so maybe a block heater or just let the engine idle a few minutes before driving.

 

Yea I have the same thing. It seemed to get worse when I removed the coolant lines to the TB, maybe it just takes longer to warm up and that is why I notice it more.

I usually just try to let the car idle for 5 min or so since it really feels crappy when you drive it cold.

 

same issue here, hesitation and bucking when cold.

 

Okay .... well you made me feel a little better.... but there must be a routine we can interrupt to prevent this type of behavior.

 

My car did it bonestock, it does it now, and will continue to do this. It has something to do with where you set the min temp for full boost control. Assuming you arent on the stock BCS what I have done is set it at 30*C and then I wait about 30 seconds before I start to drive. It richens (when in warm up mode) up from my experience, but I havent ever thought to log it and see what was going on with the timing.

 

I've noticed that the MTFFBC actually limiting the amount of throttle the ECU sees. I can floor it and only get 80% TPS in the log. Like JB said, if it's related it could be pulling timing as well.

Personally, I just take it as easy as possible until I get out of my neighborhood ... it's usually fine by then.

 

^^^ Yes it only takes a few minutes to warm up but I just don't like the way it feels. Feels like the motor is fighting my throttle inputs.

I thought it might be emissions related. Since we dont have testing here it would be nice to eliminate the emission profile. Hell I'm running catless with leaded fuel so I dont think holding my cold start timing back is doing much for the environment.

To further build on this..... what is map 1 doing if its not controlling cold start?

 

what is the coolant and oil temp?

 

Great question. I'd love to know what causes this. Better yet, how to remedy this behavior.

 

This happens even in 60* weather. I expect that it will last longer as the temps drop even more.

I would still like to know what MAP 1 does if its not controlling cold engine operating parameters.

 

There is some theory that MAP 2 is the base map, MAP 1 is the advanced map that gets interpolated with MAP 2 if everything else is coolio and MAP 3 is the fall back map.

However, if the above is true I would like to know how the low octane maps come into play with that theory.

I've personally seen and logged things that could somewhat agree with that theory. I've seen the car use Map 2 with no knock and the next pull it would start using some of Map 1.

Somebody also brought up a theory awhile back about how certain parts of all 3 maps could be used depending on the Mivec settings.

It would be nice to know for sure what does what, why, when and how. Maybe some of the smarties on this board can look into the Ecu more and figure it out for sure?

I would pay top dollar to be able to sit in a room with a Mitsubishi ECU engineer for a couple hours, thats for sure.

 

as far as I can tell the 1,2,3 map deal is this:

when mivec is advancing (ie the same or bigger than last time) interpolate between 1 & 2

when mivec is retarding (ie smaller than last time) interpolate between 2 & 3

my car sux when its cold too

 

dude thats those lines are there to heat the coldest incoming air to aid with cold temp issues. the cold running problems are indeed that is that the motor is cold. seriously the motor generates alot of heat and really warms up rather quickly.to those who are impatient just let the car idle a few minutes rather than trying to find a way to make a cold motor run like a warmed up one.......