MAF Screen / Honeycomb - How do you prevent it from getting sucked in?
MAF Screen / Honeycomb - How do you prevent it from getting sucked in?
I saw a post a while ago about and evom Member doing something to prevent his Screen from getting sucked in. I have been searching for a while and not sure where it was and what they did.. any help on locating that post or letting me know what some of you guys did would be great.. thx!
Evolving Member
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: In my house
It won't get sucked in, the car that it happened to had something knock it loose. If the honeycomb is damaged and bent up, it can block air and create a vacuum strong enough to suck it through, in addition to screwing up the air signal.
If the honeycomb is good - don't worry. If it's damaged -need new MAF
If the honeycomb is good - don't worry. If it's damaged -need new MAF
The circumstances why mine was crushed: 540whp/494wtq on a dynojet with the standard AMS turbo kit. The MAF screen crushed during street driving, not on the dyno. Upon closer inspection of the diverter valve recirculation plumbing on the AMS kit's intake pipe, we decided that it was too close to the MAF screen AND not angled adequately TOWARDS the compressor inlet. I know most ams kits are sold for AEM EMS, but it would be nice if the AMS DV inlet was angled more like this intake pipe which is almost the same as what I am running today (TTech stealth turbo kit0:
This is what it looked like after it died...
What we did: Two things. First, we just extended the distance between the MAF to the point where the diverter valve dumps into the intake piping. These few inches of extra length were done by adding a longer silicon coupler than comes with the kit. This has the result of putting the end of the K&N cone all the way between the Intercooler filler bottle and the fuse box. This pic is at the wrong angle, but you can kinda see how it entends further than the standard kit intake:
Next, we carefully took out the MAF screen out, scuffed the edges of the maf screen housing with some high abrasive scotch brite pad, and added a thick layer of good epoxy glue there and on the edges of the screen. We replaced the screen, let it set/dry and were done. I can't remember the exact type of epoxy glue, but it was some good stuff. If you look really closely, you can see how the edge of the screen has the glue. (bottom and right side)
Also, if the screen has a few bent honeycombs, that would contribute to its failure, imho.
Results: So far, about 80 dyno pulls, many in the mid to high 500whp with no problem. Two trips to the drag races with no problems, where I ran 11.1, 11.0, 11.0 at 128, 5 time attack sessions with Paul Gerrard driving (if there is a weak link, he will find it), and 28,000 miles of daily driving...
This is what it looked like after it died...
What we did: Two things. First, we just extended the distance between the MAF to the point where the diverter valve dumps into the intake piping. These few inches of extra length were done by adding a longer silicon coupler than comes with the kit. This has the result of putting the end of the K&N cone all the way between the Intercooler filler bottle and the fuse box. This pic is at the wrong angle, but you can kinda see how it entends further than the standard kit intake:
Next, we carefully took out the MAF screen out, scuffed the edges of the maf screen housing with some high abrasive scotch brite pad, and added a thick layer of good epoxy glue there and on the edges of the screen. We replaced the screen, let it set/dry and were done. I can't remember the exact type of epoxy glue, but it was some good stuff. If you look really closely, you can see how the edge of the screen has the glue. (bottom and right side)
Also, if the screen has a few bent honeycombs, that would contribute to its failure, imho.
Results: So far, about 80 dyno pulls, many in the mid to high 500whp with no problem. Two trips to the drag races with no problems, where I ran 11.1, 11.0, 11.0 at 128, 5 time attack sessions with Paul Gerrard driving (if there is a weak link, he will find it), and 28,000 miles of daily driving...
Last edited by Smogrunner; Jul 2, 2008 at 08:52 AM.
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It won't get sucked in, the car that it happened to had something knock it loose. If the honeycomb is damaged and bent up, it can block air and create a vacuum strong enough to suck it through, in addition to screwing up the air signal.
If the honeycomb is good - don't worry. If it's damaged -need new MAF
If the honeycomb is good - don't worry. If it's damaged -need new MAF
Thats not true. My honycomb was in perfect condition but still managed to be sucked in by my 35r running only 21psi. The screen by itself is a restriction even if it is in perfect condition. It still creates resistance to the air flowing past it and if you move enough air eventually it will be sucked in, its only a matter of time until it happens.
Thats not true. My honycomb was in perfect condition but still managed to be sucked in by my 35r running only 21psi. The screen by itself is a restriction even if it is in perfect condition. It still creates resistance to the air flowing past it and if you move enough air eventually it will be sucked in, its only a matter of time until it happens.
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