Not always the case. Jestr has spent countless hours tuning my car to improve drivability. He takes his time and gets it right. The only tuner I have ever dealt with, and its always been a great experience.

 

you might want to update ur sig man.

 

Yeah, i know. Cars in the shop again and Im tired of up dating it. Going back to a 2.0.

 

Its not just the super aggressive cams, like the revolvers, that will create difficultly at idle with the stock ECU. It also depends on the other mods you have to go along with the cams. Obviously the injector size can play a role and MAF/MAFT mods create more tuning hurdles. No two cars are exactly the same but from what I have seen, I feel 95%+ of cammed/modified cars can have a very decent idle with the stock ECU. The more we learn how to mod the stock ECU (it has come leaps and bounds in only a few months too) the better this problem can be solved.

 

Well said! When I first upgraded my car, I installed HKS 280 cams. Idled well even without a tune. The next day I installed 880 Injectors... They killed my idle... Of course Jestr fixed all that...

 

I just finished tuning a stock ECU 03 with 280 cams and a few other mods.. It's not difficult at all, and can be done.

Anyone saying it cannot be done simply doesn't know what they are talking about.

 

I don't think 280's are the kind of cams we're talking about, unless they have really high lift.

Revolvers seem to be the ones I've seen the most issues with. I have seen Cosworth M2's tuned with no problems on 8's.

 

We have never had a problem tuning ANY cam on OEM ecu via reflashing.

 

The trick to getting a cammed car to idle well is keeping stable airflow through the MAF sensor. ECU tuning for idle is primarily about raising idle speed and generating vacuum by altering idle timing and ISCV adjustments. Other factors are adjusting the DV if possible so that varying loads don't draw the valve open affecting airflow which will cause stalling.

 

There are devices that make this alot easier.. My blowthrough meter's electronics have a threshold where it goes no lower than a certain point, which results in a very stable idle MAF signal and the car runs rock solid. The ECU+ has this feature built-in also, where you can set a solid idle signal. But you can work with any piggyback device to make adjustments also.

You can do this directly in the ECU, but its a bit more involved, and usually isnt necessary if you can get the idle speed up.

Cams and large injectors need a higher idle than stock, 1000-1200rpm is a normal idle for cammed cars.

Both cams and large injectors complicate things because of the extremely low duty cycles and closed loop trims that also shift depending on the parasitic load on the engine (A/C, PS pump, Alternator) so if you want to make these adjustments properly, make them while the a/c is on high and headlights are on, this will place the most load on the engine at idle.. once you have that, you can finalize the adjustments with everything off.

 

what would be the proper idol vacume for cosworth M2 cams? im at about 11 on my defi gauge....im almost thinking lower will make it idol a tad better..ive been at this idol for a week now and its idolin a lot better....