Ecu-boost : Stock Solenoid with pill VS GM boost solenoid
Hey Jeff,
I am hesitant to post this right now but I will. This evo owner was a good friend of mine and I was fitting him in on the dyno but ran out of time at the end because he had to rush to pick somebody up at the airport. Because of this the boost curve wasn't fully finished and had a slight dip at around 6600 rpm that needs to be smoothed out. I know even after stating this somebody will comment on the dip on the graph but oh well.
Here you go:
As usual, good power gains over the MBC starting at 4500 where I see almost every MBC start to taper, where with ecu-boost you can hold the boost almost flat all the way across. I would say a good 15whp gain at 6k and a good 15wtq gain at
5k or so. Also holds more power at 7100, about 15whp there as well. Again, the little dip at 6500 is a boost dip (no knock at all) and will be smoothed out when I get him back in.
As far as the power graph for the 1st post I made in this thread. I will try and print and scan it this week.
I am hesitant to post this right now but I will. This evo owner was a good friend of mine and I was fitting him in on the dyno but ran out of time at the end because he had to rush to pick somebody up at the airport. Because of this the boost curve wasn't fully finished and had a slight dip at around 6600 rpm that needs to be smoothed out. I know even after stating this somebody will comment on the dip on the graph but oh well.
Here you go:
As usual, good power gains over the MBC starting at 4500 where I see almost every MBC start to taper, where with ecu-boost you can hold the boost almost flat all the way across. I would say a good 15whp gain at 6k and a good 15wtq gain at
5k or so. Also holds more power at 7100, about 15whp there as well. Again, the little dip at 6500 is a boost dip (no knock at all) and will be smoothed out when I get him back in.
As far as the power graph for the 1st post I made in this thread. I will try and print and scan it this week.
Thank you !!
RockAuto has the solenoid and the pigtail. Get a 10ohm resistor ( 1 watt ) .
You can tap in to the wiring harness or make your own plug from a second stock BCS, which is what I did. Plug n play then
It is very well worth it. Be sure to do the ECO mods for more boost tables and the gear dependent boost mod at the same time. You will love the last one.
Milburn
You can tap in to the wiring harness or make your own plug from a second stock BCS, which is what I did. Plug n play then
It is very well worth it. Be sure to do the ECO mods for more boost tables and the gear dependent boost mod at the same time. You will love the last one.
Milburn
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From: UK
Another option to avoid an injector swap if you are using a Walbro is to raise the stock fuel pressure from 43.5 to 52.2 PSI by modifying the stock regulator calibration dimple. Provides 9.5% higher fuel flow. I've been running like this for three years.
How exactly do you do that? Is it still possible without a fuel psi gauge ?
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,110
Likes: 320
From: Croatia
just to add to the discussion..
I got the tactrix 3 port solenoid which is a plug and play solution.. the valve itself is made by pierburg germany..
here is a boost log (and EGR, etc.) after the first tune.. the log is time based, this is the road pull in 3rd..
I still need to adress the boost drop off at the end, although I do have 20+ psi at 7000, and this is with WDGC of 84% at 6500... and will be going to the dyno in a week or so..
I am using the standard load based boost control, and I found it very easy to get a nice stable boost curve (I got constant overshoot with the standard solenoid) but when mapping for the fast boost response you can get into overboost in 4th and 5th, and 6th..
I once got 24+ PSI at 2800 RPM... then the line blew off the MAP sensor..
the car is a E9, with standard airbox with HKS filter, 3 inch miltek exhaust (turbo back), 100 CPI milltek CAT, slight work on the standard exhaust manifold and O2 housing.. (just a bit of porting on the housings.. not much..)
I got the tactrix 3 port solenoid which is a plug and play solution.. the valve itself is made by pierburg germany..
here is a boost log (and EGR, etc.) after the first tune.. the log is time based, this is the road pull in 3rd..
I still need to adress the boost drop off at the end, although I do have 20+ psi at 7000, and this is with WDGC of 84% at 6500... and will be going to the dyno in a week or so..
I am using the standard load based boost control, and I found it very easy to get a nice stable boost curve (I got constant overshoot with the standard solenoid) but when mapping for the fast boost response you can get into overboost in 4th and 5th, and 6th..
I once got 24+ PSI at 2800 RPM... then the line blew off the MAP sensor..
the car is a E9, with standard airbox with HKS filter, 3 inch miltek exhaust (turbo back), 100 CPI milltek CAT, slight work on the standard exhaust manifold and O2 housing.. (just a bit of porting on the housings.. not much..)
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2,399
Likes: 6
From: UK
I used a pump with a gauge on the side port to calibrate it, and hit the dimple with a hammer and blunt punch until the vent pressure increased. Sounds "ghetto", but looks stock, it works, and I've previously had problems with aftermarket fuel pressure regulators.
Evolved Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,110
Likes: 320
From: Croatia
Its basically the same principle as 'crushing' a metal blow-off valve and works great if done right. I assume you can simply alter your injector scaling from 513 (USDM) to around 560 to comprensate so your fuel maps are fairly close right?
I have a OEM FPR sitting on my desk that is "crushed" to 5Xpsi. Been waiting to test it.
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