High gear + low RPM + WOT = High load. There's one solution that has already been mentioned. It's quite elegant and does not require hours of logging and hours of dyno tuning. It's called "JUST DOWNSHIFT".

 

Obviously, i need some insight to this otherwise i wouldnt have posted. However, just downshifting is not an acceptable answer without explanation. Also, if this were the case, dont you think every stock car - evolution or not - would audibly knock if this were the case? I have never driven a car - including my 9 when it was stock - that you couldnt floor it in a higher gear at a low rpm that resulted in knock. Never.

 

sounds like the low-rpm, higher load cells need some tweaking in both fuel and ignition...

 

I don't know what you drive and how old you are, but every engine will detonate in low rpm, high gear, WOT situation because you're putting a lot of load on it. On newer cars you don't hear the engine knocking because of all the sound deadening material. Also capable ECU's reduce your timing by a lot to cure the knock somewhat.

And downshifting IS an acceptable answer. I don't know what exactly you're looking for in an explanation... High load at low RPM with probably any amount of positive timing leads to high cylinder pressures and knock. Downshifting reduces load.

 

+1

use much lower timing, That will solve the problem. I always test those area with my 5th gear. I can get boost up to 30 psi by 3000 rpm with my stock 8 turbo. If you have a EBC, lower the boost around that area.

 

hey nothing wrong with borrowing your neighbors tools, just know how to use the tools differently in different situations.
1 tool can be used for more than 1 thing.

 

if u can post some logs and your timing and fuel maps people would be able to easily help you solve the issue.

 

Chances are you have excessive timing. This is why a sea of 6's or 8's doesnt work well on a Evo. Sure, some Evo's can take 6* of timing in 3rd gear.. not so many can handle 6* in 6th gear at full boost 3K rpms.

Post logs.

 

big mistake to load someone elses tune up and go WOT even if the cars are identical...what works for one car doesn't necessary work for another.

simply put, you need a proper custom tune that tailored to fit your mods/boost/octane and driving style.

 

Thanks for the replies everyone. This tune is part of a base tune that was purchased. This base tune has been used on many 06 Evo's. The particular tune on my car was in the process of fine tuning it. Cell for cell, i did not just use someone elses tune. When i said exact tune, i should have specified that this is a base from which to fine tune. Should i have started completely from scratch, ya in hind sight i probably should have. But this was a prooven base to start with so i did. Obviously it didnt work for me. So to everyone that has basically said that, i understand. I made a mistake. It didnt come down to cheaping out, or stealing. It came down to the wrong decision to start with something that wasnt from scratch.

Today, i am going to re-adjust my tie bars since my DP is rattling off of it under certain braking or loads. Then i will take more logs of the car this evening and post them. For now the only thing i have is on the first page which shows my 36 counts of knock. However, looking more closely at it, toward the end of the knocking, while still picking up 36, i go from -6* of timing to +7 then +13 and upward, while still having knock. Why would the engine knock, but the computer add more timing?

 

possibly because the low timing map isn't low enough in that section...don't know without seeing it.

 

I would suggest you spend the money and have someone, preferably one of the major flash tuning companies, send you a base email tune. This is of course if you aren't tuning it yourself. I would never try someone elses map on my car without adjusting it. Just my 2 cents. That or read read read and learn to tweak the map on your own.