hehe - getting close to totally off topic here

ok so read this:
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/f...ad.php?p=48499

I think he makes a good point about the +12V supply to the LC1 been unregulated (wrong term maybe).

So I am hoping the electronics inclined amongst us can help with the circuitry, im thinking:

Would that work? Will it regulate both current and voltage?

Cheers
D

 

Current will always change with the draw demands of the control unit. You just need the voltage to be regulated and the current capacity to to be greater than the draw from the LC1. I have a simple 12v regulator diagram saved somewhere, I'll try to post it soon.

 

thanks Jamie! electronics wiz to the rescue

so really what I want is basically a mini-UPS that can supply a stable power supply whilst cranking/switching keys... possible?

 

It appears that they recommend roughly 5 amps of current supply. Most 12 volt voltage regulator chips are a max of 1A so I'd need to find some higher current regulators or I'd need to use five 1A's at once.

You can set it up so the LC-1 is powered off of a true ignition source rather than an accessory wire which shuts off during cranking to conserve power for the starter.

 

Be glad too if someone could tell me which wire/fuse to tap into

 

best way to find a constant 12v is at the ignition switch,
get yourself a 12v test probe at the motor factors,
one with the croc clip on one end, clamp it to the chassis and test each cable at the ignition switch, in my 5 its white with a blue stripe,
hold the tester on this cable and crank the engine the light or led on the tester should stay lit during cranking, use this source, solder a cable onto the cable you just found fit an inline 5 amp fuse and power up the LC1,
havent tried it on mine yet but it should work,

 

I don't know why I have no problems with the lc-1, maybe I will...

I powered the wideband from the power window lead at the drivers side. And yes power is off during cranking, which I think is a good thing.

 

well LC1 manual says power should be off during cranking, but I think the constant power on/off is causing problems...

 

I would assume they would want the unit off during cranking so the unit isn't trying to stay powered on with as little as 9 volts while the engine is cranking. Even if you make a 12v regulated power supply, it will still dip below 12v but it won't exceed 12v or fluctuate ever...plus the signal would be filtered so its a lot cleaner and predictable.

 

This is what I did. On the USDM Evo 9, fuse #5 and #12 are both IG2 (live only when key in "ign" position), but both these power sources are used for important electronics. So what I did was buy an SPST automotive relay (available at any decent electronics seller) and used it to control power from fuse #17 which comes straight off the fuseable link. I had to buy two of the mini fuse "add-a-circuit"s to tap into those fuse power supplies. So far, its working perfectly. tephra, I can snap a pic if you like.

 

your gonna need a full on buck boost converter or a SEPIC configuration if you want a regulated supply that provides enough juice for the wb heater circuit.


i believe innovate or some wideband people at least recommend a decoupling cap near the actual unit, depending on how far away it is from power. the inductor you show in your sketch - would try to snuff transients the same way as a decoupling cap.

edit: i do not own an LC-1 just obsessed with electronics design.

 

I would like to see this setup if you dont mind.

I have a thick ignition wire that came off my remote starter. The installer said i should have no issues running a wideband off of it so i tapped off of that.

 

i also read the other thread - and the LC-1 is not having issues because power is being lost, its because the act of harshly cutting and re-anabling power sends spikes down the power wires.


http://ecmweb.com/powerquality/elect...sients_primer/
if you stuck DSO/oscilloscope with a huge buffer you would see the spike being sent to the LC-1.

 

and the inductor smooths the spikes?

 

would be ok to have lc-1 connected to the radio power supply and then just grounded at the radio frame or needs better grounding?
thanks