V5, NLTS and the load threshold bug
Just wanted to bring up a quick question, I don't remember is we have discussed this before or not.
In one of Lucas English's posts he mentions that he switched the NLTS to the bottom clutch switch and he feels this helped his shift times because the NLTS rev limiter goes back to normal faster this way.
So, any ideas about this.
Tephra - would this be possible with coding, rather than having to re-wire stuff?
If it's not possible with coding, how would it need to be done? Any downsides?
I notice in my logs that after letting the clutch out the RPM seems to oscillate a bit after a shift before climbing once again, I can't say for sure if this is a delay due to NLTS but my gut feeling is that it is.
Side note - it would also be good because I know a lot of people run into problems with how SUPER sensitive the top clutch switch is.
In one of Lucas English's posts he mentions that he switched the NLTS to the bottom clutch switch and he feels this helped his shift times because the NLTS rev limiter goes back to normal faster this way.
So, any ideas about this.
Tephra - would this be possible with coding, rather than having to re-wire stuff?
If it's not possible with coding, how would it need to be done? Any downsides?
I notice in my logs that after letting the clutch out the RPM seems to oscillate a bit after a shift before climbing once again, I can't say for sure if this is a delay due to NLTS but my gut feeling is that it is.
Side note - it would also be good because I know a lot of people run into problems with how SUPER sensitive the top clutch switch is.
On Lucas' car this made a big difference in how fast it comes back into boost because the clutch doesnt have to be fully released before RPM comes back. It is a process to rewire as its not simply moving the switch. Setting it to operate off of either switch would be swell.
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exactly - or even worse if you dont bottom out it will never cut the revs..
anyways I think the best solution for people having "early engagement" troubles is to "extend" the top clutch switch by putting foam or something on the pedal... that way the pedal can be further down before the ECU thinks its depressed.
anyways I think the best solution for people having "early engagement" troubles is to "extend" the top clutch switch by putting foam or something on the pedal... that way the pedal can be further down before the ECU thinks its depressed.
I'll see if I can find a replacement switch which has a longer throw for anyone concerned with this. I know I accidentally trip the NLTS all the time when starting a WOT run.
exactly - or even worse if you dont bottom out it will never cut the revs..
anyways I think the best solution for people having "early engagement" troubles is to "extend" the top clutch switch by putting foam or something on the pedal... that way the pedal can be further down before the ECU thinks its depressed.
anyways I think the best solution for people having "early engagement" troubles is to "extend" the top clutch switch by putting foam or something on the pedal... that way the pedal can be further down before the ECU thinks its depressed.
I used to NLTS before the actual ecu mod was out, if you do it really fast the engine only revs up a couple hundred RPM's. I think going of the top or bottom clutch switch is a matter of preference and matter of how fast you shift. If you shift slowly the bottom switch might let the engine rev too high but if you shift really fast the top switch might be too slow to react.
If the bottom switch does not connect to the ECU, is there a way to simply switch the wires from the top and bottom clutch switch or will that present other problems?
That would be really cool. And we know from the ECU pins that you have an uncanny ability track down hard to find electrical parts.








