I will be starting up my 2.3L stroker for the first time soon, and i am just wondering if anyone has any tips or suggestions, especially pertaining to the tune.

Ive searched around and it seems that the 2.0L map should be OK to get it started but im not to sure about it. I was planing on installing the stock turbo/injectors for startup and break in.

I would like to get the car running and into mild boost (11 psi) as soon as possible.

If anyone has any tips/suggestions, or better yet an actual 2.3L map that i could look at i would be greatly appreciative.

thanks


the engine setup:

2.3L
0.02 overbore pistions 8.74:1 cr
oliver rods
balance shafts present (however machined down)
+1 mm valve
multiangle valve job
blended bowls

 

The 2.3 can't take as much timing as the 2.0, so pull a few degrees out for the break in just to be safe. Monitor the AFR to make sure you aren't running too rich ... I'd say 10.5:1 for break in (in boost) would be a good spot.

For the boost level, just route manifold pressure to the wastegate and that'll give you the 11 psi you're looking for.

Are you planning a hard break in or an easier one?

 

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not sure how im gonna break it in

 

Sounds odd for a break in. I'd suggest boosting out of the box on dyno oil, or taking it easy and under 5k for 300 miles or so ... mixing the two might give undesired results. 11 psi should be fine for either break in method. I'm no engine builder though. What does your builder recommend for break in?

You could set the idle at 2k if you wanted to go that route ...

 

I can see this thread going OT quick. lets keep the scope limited to the actual break-in map itself

 

Okay. =)

Use your 2.0 map. Pull some timing. Richen the mix a tad (assuming it's a tuned 2.0 map). Run manifold pressure directly to the WG actuator. That's your break in setup.

 

thats what i figured, thanks for your input


I would still like to see a 2.3 map if anyone would be so kind

 

STOP!!!

You need to run the car thru several heat cycles before driving it. Do the 10-15 mins at 2000-2500 RPM then let it cool down and do it again. Do that for about 5 times then check for ANY leaks. if no leaks then take it for a short drive. check for leaks again. Progressively take it for longer trips with out any psi until you get about 200 miles on it.

Make sure you are running straight 30w oil

 

I knew this was gonna happen

 

Don't take it the wrong way ... he's just trying to help. Plus, he just broke in a 2.3l a few months back. you are right though ... everyone has an opinion on break in procedure.

If Sebastian wants to post his break in maps he can ... I don't have my laptop with me so I can't post them for you. They were super safe and worked out fine.

 

I completely understand, and im not taking it the wrong way. but im trying to get some specific usefull information out of this thread and i can just see it turning into a pissing match as everyone argues about which break-in is best.

sebastian- ygpm

 

Yeah, I just finish the break in on mine about 1.5 months ago. I used 30w for the first 2k miles, intervals of: 1 change right after the heat cylces, 1 change after 50 miles, 1 after 100, 1 after 250, 1 after 500, 1 after 750, 1 after 1000, 1 after 1500, 1 after 2000. after the 2000 mark, I switched to AMSOIL 0w30 with wix filter. After every oil change I also replaced the oil filter with a mitsu 1.

So far have have had 0 metalic particals at all in either the filter or the oil when drained.

 

When I broke mine in I started with my previous 2.0 map with a bit of timing pulled (3-4 degrees). I logged every moment the motor was running and made tuning adjustments to get the AFR to ~11:1. Obviously you don't want knock, but you also don't want to wash down the cylinder walls with too much fuel. One pull that's a little too rich or a little too lean won't hurt anything, just make sure you log it and make adjustments if necessary. Your previous map should be very close.

I heat cycled mine twice, changed the oil and filter, drove it easy for about 20 miles and changed the oil one more time. Then I drove it at varying RPMs and boost levels (up to 18 psi) and regularly checked it for leaks. I changed the oil again at 100 and 500 miles to check for metal and after 1000 miles switched to synthetic oil and drove it like I stole it. I have ~12,000 miles on my stroker and no issues at all.

-Paul

 

how is your compression?