I went to log my car today for the first time in about 3-4 weeks. I dont have a WB gauge, i just log through evoscan. When i plugged everything in, my innovate red light was on solid. But when i started evoscan 2.5 i got weird readings like 7.35 and 30.95 all at idle. Light was still on solid. I noticed that evoscan was telling me that over in the Diagnostic Trouble Codes: O2 level 20.95% and it would hop around also. When i unplug my serial cable from my laptop i dont get any DTC's showing on the right hand side. Just wondering if this is normal activity for a dead sensor, or one in need of recalibration, or if i should be looking for a bigger culprit? BTW the sensor and LC1 unit themselves are only about 4-5 months old, bought brand new.

Log of my idle for reference.

 

A sensor recal is needed. Heater might need a recal too. This isn't normally needed for a non-defective LC-1 that was installed properly. You might have a bad LC-1 or something not right with your install.

 

Ive had my lc-1 go bananas also. They are known to lose the calibration data. Firmware 1.10 is better, so make sure your updated. Just unplug the sensor from the lc-1 module, turn the key on, It will erase all its calibration data. Turn it off, connect the sensor, make sure its out of the o2 housing, or your o2 housing is clear of exhaust gas. (Its a free-air calibration). Connect the plug, turn on the ign and the lc-1 will re-calibrate. You can look at log works 3 while your doing the cal to watch its progress. It takes ~2 minutes.

 

Im thinking sensor recal. LC1 should be ok as its up high in the engine bay.

Im running 1.10. Would it really be accurate free air calibrating it in the dp? Car hasnt been on in over 2 hours....

 

The need for a heater recal doesn't depend on location of the sensor or the controller. The heater cal can get munged just like the sensor cal. If your LC-1 is in easy reach, then unplugging the sensor from the controller is pretty easy. If its hidden away like mine, then its far easier to use the recal option in the LM-1 Programmer interface. Do the heater recal by itself with the car parked, and then if you don't want to be bothered with pulling the sensor from the DP, the best option for a sensor recal is to do a sensor recal while the car is decelerating from say 65 mph in 4th gear (preferably down a hill). The injectors will shut off during decel, and the engine will pump air through the exhaust.

 

Thank you for the excellent tips!

 

Ive never tried the decel re-cal, i always pull my sensor... But it does make sense, and lots of people recommend it. Maybe next time ill do that.

 

I finally got around to doing a recal on both the heater and sensor. Im getting good readings now i think. I am still having an issue with logging AFR through evoscan 2.5 though. When logging, AFT will skip recording a value every other line or every few lines. Baud rate for my com port is set to 19200. Also, in Evoscan 2.5 im not getting any data logged for injector duty cycle even though i have it checked to log. Included is a 3rd gear pull to show my AFR skip. I think im gonna go back to Evoscan 2.0. I had the least amount of problems with it. Any other advice?

Edit - also, i am getting a message that says: O2 Level: 19.2% in the DTC box in Evoscan 2.5. However, when i push the display DTC's, it returns no messages. What gives?

 

Oh ive got you there also. Check out https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=361521 I wrote that little app because mine does the same thing. Also for that not logging IDC make sure you can log IPW and if you cant, then check your requestid in evoscan against your MUT table to make sure everything is lined up.

 

Thank you for the quick reply. I am going to use your AFR fix. As for the IDC's, yes my injector pulse width is calculating....

 

Yeah, the only deal with it is if your using vista and your data logs are in the default EVOscan folder in c:\program files. You'll need 'run as administrator' so the program can open the log file. Else it will just give you an error that it cant open the file.

 

gentle men...thank you for all the tips in this thread..i just installed the LC-1 in my car and cant get around to get it read correctly..
it is not showing me any error codes (ie blinking led) and i have, with an electrician gone over the wiring installation more than 6 times and still...it is only readin between 7.6 and 10.3

i went into the LM-1 to make sure that the correction factor is set to Gasoline 14.7---and it already was..but i did not mingle around with the heater recal nor the sensor recal..i will try that this evening..hoping this will fix the problem
i need to start tuning the car..its been sitting for like a week with me trying to sort out this issue.

anyways...will give it a try and hopefully update this link hoping that one day it will be as beneficial to someone else as it was to me.

thanks again

Moosa

 

Hi Moosa
I know that it is whit risck to be lynched but many tuners here in DK has left Innovates AFR LC1 due to many strange readings. One told me that onse he got 3 defect units out of a bundel of 10 pices.

The old fasion TE J2E and a TE LD02 have manny good reference here, they provide correct readings year after year. I got one of them and it was plug and play, buy old fasion to have in the counter cluch.

 

ok ok...managed to get the lc-1 to read correctly..
my new problem is: now it only reads in correctly in the logworks2 software (ie on my laptop) however my DB gauges is not anywhere near the correct reading?


anyone got any input??


yeah gigas..i know what you are talking about...this is the last time i buy innovate products..next time i am gonna try something else...perhaps zeitronix

 

try to set curves on analogue outputs via LM prommer, if does not help then DA converters are dead.