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Setting base idle using SAS mode....

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Old Oct 30, 2008 | 08:57 PM
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Setting base idle using SAS mode....

long post, sorry!

My setup is as follows: 272's, valvesprings and retainers, FIC 750's, aeromotive fuel rail, stock FPR, albro 255, FP green, FP upgraded WGA, full-race pro-stock manifold, FP O2 housing, DC downpipe, greddy Ti catback, ETS intake, ETS FMIC and piping, HKS BOV re-circ'd, mil.spec ported TB and IM...

I just put back the car together to get her running, seasons almost over, but I'd like to have her running decently.

I did a boost leak test at 25 psi and things seem fine. I checked for exhaust leaks as well...

I am trying to figure out things on my end to help fix idle so the tune goes well, it doesnt idle so well and I am thinking its perhaps the injectors and latency, but also the throttle body as the BISS may be off...

I know about the SAS actuator mode via Evoscan that needs to be actuated.

So, I was wondering if this is how I would do it...

1) Let car warm up fully
2) Turn on SAS mode
3) set idle to 852 rpm turning the screw

With the 272 cams, will it even idle that low or idle well enough to set it?

- Is there a minimum no. of turns it needs to be set at or some way to verify where its set at?

- I was hoping to use evoscan and log rpms and set it that way? Any better ideas?

Thanks for your time!

Last edited by EvoIXMR; Oct 30, 2008 at 09:00 PM.
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Old Oct 30, 2008 | 09:22 PM
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can't you look at the tacho when your adjusting it?
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Old Oct 30, 2008 | 10:14 PM
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Kinda hard when its a one man show. I suppose you mean turn, stick head into car and back out and adjust? I was wondering if one of the widgety electronic gauges may work - hard to set to 852 using the factory tach as well I feel.

How do you do it Tephra?
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Old Oct 30, 2008 | 10:17 PM
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warmed up car (5 min drive)
enabled SAS Mode

turned screw until idle changed
looked at tacho
repeat until tacho roughly measures 800rpm
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Old Oct 30, 2008 | 11:56 PM
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My car with Coz M2s vibrates and rattles stuff to heck if the idle's much under 1000rpm.
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Old Oct 31, 2008 | 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by biggie5252
My car with Coz M2s vibrates and rattles stuff to heck if the idle's much under 1000rpm.
LOL - I have AMS solid mount bar at the bottom and powerflex side mounts, I am guessing I am going to have the same issue if not worse More filling appts with the dentist......

So, if I bumped her up to 1000 rpm via ecflash at idle, am I ok? Do I need to change the drive ones too? I don't have AC anymore, so I am not too concerned about the AC settings, I would think, unless you smart people tell me I need to mess with them as well...

PS - biggie - you changed your avatar - I still need to talk to you about setting up my truboost. I am all about getting idle and injector latencies knocked out for now...
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Old Oct 31, 2008 | 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by tephra
warmed up car (5 min drive)
enabled SAS Mode

turned screw until idle changed
looked at tacho
repeat until tacho roughly measures 800rpm
Is there a possibility, it will not change, if I went all the way in..Just wondering. I had an issue with a honda one time which did this and I cannot remember what the root cause was....
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Old Oct 31, 2008 | 09:50 AM
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Guys you are not setting your normal idle here. You are setting the base idle so the Ecu can then take your normal idle parameters into effect. Example, set BISS to 800-ish then set ECU to 1000. Should idle at 1000 when you exit the SAS mode.
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Old Oct 31, 2008 | 10:50 AM
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ok, cool. Thats good to know. Thats what I was asking, I guess. BISS needs to be set at the stock idle and use ECUFlash to move to the desired idle.

I didnt know if the two needed matched up or not.
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Old Oct 31, 2008 | 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by EvoIXMR
ok, cool. Thats good to know. Thats what I was asking, I guess. BISS needs to be set at the stock idle and use ECUFlash to move to the desired idle.

I didnt know if the two needed matched up or not.
Only time to move it is if your having issues keeping idle with cams.

Oh an you can damage the screw with backfires since the screw is plastic it will get burned up. You can also break it quite readily so be gentle
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Old Oct 31, 2008 | 10:55 AM
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will do, Roadspike. PS - Sending you a PM now...
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Old Oct 31, 2008 | 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by EvoIXMR
will do, Roadspike. PS - Sending you a PM now...
Just so others can follow this too try putting on the stock intake tube. The metal pipe was causing me to have maf reading issues and consequently caused my AFR's to swing around all over the place at idle.
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Old Oct 31, 2008 | 11:11 AM
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Road spike, with an MAF pipe you may need to re-scale your MAF in ecuflash.
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Old Oct 31, 2008 | 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by fixem2
Road spike, with an MAF pipe you may need to re-scale your MAF in ecuflash.
It wasn't that it just was swinging around like crazy with the pipe on. Stock intake tube on the car and all the problems went back to normal.

I'll note this never happened until i put cams on the car. I'm guessing the rougher idle of the cams sometimes confuses the maf.
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Old Oct 31, 2008 | 11:20 AM
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Happening to my car as well. PT61mm BB (AKA 35R). AFR's are all over at idle clutching to a stop car chokes out rich and stumbles. Gonna try messing with the BISS after work.

Dont know how much more patients I have with this damn MAF
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