timing looks good! idle fluctuations can sometimes be a beast on a 03, esp with revolvers!

 

I have been looking at all kinds of ISVC tables and every map is different for the 008, the 014, the 015, the EDM Ralliart, and the JDM Ralliart.

I am so lost as to where to even start with these values. I am using the 015 map so I plugged in those values. Hopefully they will work.

 

I played with injector scaling a lot today. For the life of me I cannot get the low LTFT to come off of .1008. At one point I had mid LTFT down to -3% and STFT bouncing +/- 3. I shut the car down, took a break and came back. Started logging and mid went to -7 and STFT bounces +/- 8.

This is so frustrating. Oh and just to help with the massive loping I reased base idle to 1000.

The surging is still present but not as bad.

Everything I can find in concerns to idle, cams and timing all say to raise base timing to 7 from the 5. How will this effect the revolvers with their massive lift?

Please help.

 

Despite what has been said, crank the timing at idle to 8-9* to start. What are your idle AFRs at? Going rich at idle independent of the O2 sensor (open loop vs closed loop) does help some as well.

 

Those cams will cause a p0300 at idle with that much timing at idle! at least it did on a friends car!

 

After much tweeking of the fuel latencies I got the Mid LTFT to settle at -0.4875 and the STFT to bounce around at +/- 3. I know my injectors are correct now. The car will idle great now. I still am having issues with it hunting hard core when coasting to a stop. And still the Low STFT won't change at all.

When does the Low come into affect?

I still have timing set to 5* and 6*.

I have thrown a P0300 a couple times while trying to set the latencies. They are pretty good now so I think I will try turning up the timing a tad to maybe 7.

Scaling = 696
Latencies =
3.312
2.04
1.296
0.912
0.792
0.6
0.336

 

should be almost as soon as you roll it into neutral. But 03 are really bad about catching a stable idle real fast! might try smoothing your idle control a little to help with that, in the higher loads to 0! That would be my first thought. Great job on the trims though A side note is fic's are way harder than ptes to get real close, at least any of the ones i ever had to mess with! But it looks like your getting the hang of it.

 

Thanks for all of your encouragement. This has been a huge learning curve for me. Luckily I understand engine mechanics very well. I am actually liking learing the ECU side of things.

I logged the stall that occurs and it appears that the load starts to jump up as the RPM drops and AFR decrease (gets richer). I see this every time it happens when rolling to a stop.

I think, like you said, the next step is to get the 60-100 loads set with even timing and a lot less fuel. In other words make 60-100 loads below 1250 rpm look the same from 0 through 100. Then the ecu has no choice but to take the settings. I am going to do this in both the low and high maps.

Oh and John....the car is ideling with a near perfect 14.7 AFR. It hovers around that value consistantly.

To think I am getting the revolver cams to idle with a stock ECU and MAF with an HKS suction pipe. This is an accomplishment within itself.

I made a 3rd gear pull and the fuel curve is looking pretty good. AFR drops from about 14 at 2500 rpm to 11 at 7500 with 0 knock. Boost is set to approx 23.75 psi (1.67 kg/mm^2 on my AVCR). This is conservative because of the cold temps. I plan on tuning it at 25 psi on 93 pump once things get a bit warmer and I solve the stall issue.

What kind of timing values should I see in the upper RPMs? 4500 to redline 8000. I have it very conservative compared to a stock 941700015 ROM.

Thank you all so much for your help. The nearest Evo tuner is 4 hours away. I want to learn this stuff to help out the 40 or so Evos in my area.

 

Turn the P0300 off. Tuning isnt about worrying about what codes can get thrown if you can turn them off.

The reason I keep saying to set it richer than 14.7 is it will idle better, not stall, and in general be more responsive at low throttle. The cams throw the P0300 not the timing generally. Some cars seem more apt to throw the code with timing but its the chop of the cams more than the additional timing.

There are obviously many paths to the final destination but sometimes the more travelled paths are the best ones

 

In stock form the EVU was programmed at 500 RPM to idle at 13.3. That seems a little too rich. I am catless so with the fuel set that rich I would surely see all kinds of white smoke. I do see your point though that maybe a little bit richer is good to increase throttle response.

I agree totally with the P0300. As a matter of fact I was researching that very topic last night. Yeah it is going to be disabled if I can figure out the periphery (sp) stuff.

 

I got the periphery bit stuff figured out. Pretty simple once I added the code to my base 7 xml. I changed the periphery 2 bit 4 to a 0. Is that all I need to do? It seems to easy to disable the P0300.

Thanks.

 

^
^

White smoke is just moisture.
It doesn't matter what the map says in 500rpm cells, once warm you will still switch to closed loop and idle at 14.7. With big cams though, one way to help them idle is to set AFR's richer than 14.7 at idle like Aaron said. But in order to do that you have to keep the car in open loop at idle and tune it for maybe 13-13.5 AFR to start with.

 

With your upper timing numbers i think on 93 mine were around 5-6 340 load at 4000
Held them until close to 6k,,,,,,
ending up near 9 at redline those numbers were set for a lapping day and are somewhat conservative
Oh yeah the load dropped to 300~ at redline as well

 

I cannot find any information on how to get the car to idle in open loop at idle. Please explain.

To be honest though, the idle is pretty darn good. I want to fix the hunting that happens when I coast to a stop.

Thanks for the timing numbers. Mine are simular.