help me understand my logs ...
help me understand my logs ...
The data below is from a 2nd gear pull. There was no error correction on the boost curve (still tuning the WGDC base map), but I'm targeting 24lb.
I know I need to get rid of the knock, but here is what I'm confused about: I thought the way to avoid knock is by either pulling timing, or adding more fuel ... but ... from 5000 rpm to redline I'm running more timing, leaner AFR, and more load with zero knock, whereas from 2500-5000rpm I have much less timing, richer AFR and less load, but it's knocking like a crackwhore at a cheap motel door ... what gives?

I know I need to get rid of the knock, but here is what I'm confused about: I thought the way to avoid knock is by either pulling timing, or adding more fuel ... but ... from 5000 rpm to redline I'm running more timing, leaner AFR, and more load with zero knock, whereas from 2500-5000rpm I have much less timing, richer AFR and less load, but it's knocking like a crackwhore at a cheap motel door ... what gives?


depending on what gear you are in..
your pull is starting at really low rpm. no matter what the load is saying you are near lugging the motor. this puts too much pressure on the cylinder, let the optimum timing suffer at this stage to let the engine relax a little.
I don't even try max throttle below 3 grand, typical driving doesn't get you there and track driving won't either.
is (AFR map) your afr? if that is what it means, to much fuel.
try richening your spool up, and lower timing in the low load area a bit more. <150.
once knock has started it takes a lot more (lack of) energy to kill than if it never started.
I might be seeing it all wrong too.
your pull is starting at really low rpm. no matter what the load is saying you are near lugging the motor. this puts too much pressure on the cylinder, let the optimum timing suffer at this stage to let the engine relax a little.
I don't even try max throttle below 3 grand, typical driving doesn't get you there and track driving won't either.
is (AFR map) your afr? if that is what it means, to much fuel.
try richening your spool up, and lower timing in the low load area a bit more. <150.
once knock has started it takes a lot more (lack of) energy to kill than if it never started.
I might be seeing it all wrong too.
hey - thanks for the feedback! Yeah it's a 2nd gear pull - I start them low since that way I get a longer curve which I thought would help with the tuning (the onramp I'm using is too short for a full 3rd gear pull). I'll try something closer to the real thing tonight when I can hit the back roads.
The AFR map is the value in the cell that the ECU is looking at (as I understand it), not the actual AFR (I don't have a wideband). I do track AFR using the O2 voltage though, which I've been told is pretty accurate.
The AFR map is the value in the cell that the ECU is looking at (as I understand it), not the actual AFR (I don't have a wideband). I do track AFR using the O2 voltage though, which I've been told is pretty accurate.
(timing low across the board)get rid of that negative timing and ya your a/f are to rich down low. ontop you need to add more timing still but you a/f are good uptop!
negative timing makes the combustion still happening during the exhuast stoke causing knock sensors to go crazy.
negative timing makes the combustion still happening during the exhuast stoke causing knock sensors to go crazy.
(timing low across the board)get rid of that negative timing and ya your a/f are to rich down low. ontop you need to add more timing still but you a/f are good uptop!
negative timing makes the combustion still happening during the exhuast stoke causing knock sensors to go crazy.
negative timing makes the combustion still happening during the exhuast stoke causing knock sensors to go crazy.
. I kept reducing timing thinking that would improve the knock when it actually was the cause of it ... starting to feel much better now. What timing should I aim for at redline? thx!
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