Just getting my settings dialed in works FLAWLESS.... No grinding gears just
smooth shifting,,,, THANK YOU MR TEPHRA..DONATION ON IT'S WAY,,
Just have to get used to it....
MY SETTINGS..REV LIMT>7996
RPM DROP>3000 Witch put me @4996 In between shifts,,,
TPS>98%
SPEED>30_MPH
LOAD>150

 

Interesting... your rpm drop is significantly more than most people's that I've seen posted.

 

doesn't matter unless you shift real slow..

 

He may be on to something. By droping to around peak torque shouldn't the car accellerate at a faster rate?

 

yes and no. Yes, you get more torque, but no because you get torque for less amount of time. The faster you shift the sooner you're puting ANY power to the asphalt. A quick shift will put you higher in the RPM and have less torque but you will have that less torque for longer which makes much more difference when accelerating.

edit: As a side note, when I use NLTS (road racing) I shift slowly because that extra .001% isn't worth the pain of tranny damage. My gate doesn't like me to shift quickly and I'm okay with that. Much more time to be gained elsewhere (on a road course).

 

I use a higher RPM drop also, but not quite that high. If your car doesn't "stutter" at the higher RPM when you are shifting then it is a non-issue, but it is also not necessary to have it set so low if you are "risking" that. I would still say you want it slightly lower than your actual delta RPM between gears.

I also use a lower load and TPS (85% and 100 load) since its just easier to make sure you are within paramters and doesn't cause any problems in other situations.

 

so if I'm reading this right, you use a lower set point because the engine speed wont decelerate fast enough to hit the target anyway. If you intentionally calibrating overshoot the rate of deceleration will be increased by choosing a lower set point, therefore dropping the rpms faster?

 

I think I have my drop at 850, but it never bounces unless I completely miss the shift/get locked out anyway, so the setting is really irrelevant.

 

Sorry, can you rephrase that? I'm confuzzed...

 

My first testing I had my RPM DROP @2000 witch bring my RPM @5996 but there was a problem!! I ended uo shifting into 4th in the 1/8 mile,, so my rpm's went to quick,,so then I set the rpm drop @3000... So I still need more testing,,

 

You should expect a setting that will not drop you RPMs the min (or worse max) delta of RPMs between gears. As stated, you will likely not be out of gear and clutched out the entire time that it would take the RPMS to drop. That can also create backward jerks, and if you are in the need for NLTS a forward jerk is much better than a backward one

 

can anyone give some feedback on how long they been using NLTS and any issues that were caused by it?

i am on the stock drivetrain so i just want to confirm no ill effects before i go do this....

i am also guessing my stock clutch will not be able to last too long with NLTS?

 

sorry...late night posts = teh terrible engrish!

Basically the rev limiter works as a feedback control loop. You have an actual engine speed... and a target engine speed.

You guys are setting your target RPM (SP for Set point) between shifts much lower than what can be attained. The rate of engine deceleration isn't fast enough for the engine speed to meet its SP before you shift. This works well becauese you're requesting a lower SP than is physically attainable....IF YOU SHIFT FAST ENOUGH.



I hope this helps.

 

^^ nice post and good info.

so ur best setting would be?

 

I agree, very helpful post with understanding this. As far as what your set point would be would depend on each drivers "shift speed". From what I can gather if you were shifting @ 8000 rpm and between shifts you are naturally dropping 1,500 rpm (which would put you at 6,500rpm) then an ideal shift point limit would be 6,000 rpm. That way in an ideal situation under ideal conditions you wouldn't bounce off the set limiter.

Someone correct me if I am wrong, I too am trying to gain a better understanding of this.