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injector and ignition logging

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Old May 31, 2009 | 09:43 PM
  #1  
japanevo's Avatar
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injector and ignition logging

i remember reading that there has been a way figured out woe to log individual cylinder knock. but is it possible to log individual injector firing order/timing/duty cycle/MS time/ anything. same with ignition . basically i have an EVO8 ecu in my 2g eclipse, and i had to do some wiring changes to make it run. it runs pretty good except for every now and then it does something a little funky with hesitation and running a little lean. i also get excessive knock under light acceleration that i cant seem to get rid of. i have pulled as much as 6 deg of timing and still get around 9 - 11 counts of knock about 2500 - 3000 rpm. so i am starting to wounder if it is an injector firing order vs ignition firing problem. so if i can log injector firing, ignition firing, and rpm may be i can figure out if i have everything hooked up correctly.
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Old Jun 1, 2009 | 02:27 PM
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A multimeter with a continuity buzzer will do that much quicker.
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Old Jun 1, 2009 | 03:32 PM
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Silly question, have you replaced your DSM knock sensor with an Evo one? I believe they respond differently.

Using det cans can also see if your knock is real or not, then you can adjust your knock tables accordingly.
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Old Jun 1, 2009 | 05:44 PM
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Can't we just use evoscan to activate injectors and listen for clicking to find the right ones? If it is too hard to tell where the clicking comes from we could unplug every injector but one and then just hit each button until it clicks.

Then we just have to double check ignition events which is a 50/50 shot that should be pretty obvious if we have it right/wrong.


No, AFAIK no one doing this swap has changed the knock sensor. I'm not sure how different they are but it is something to look into.

My knock has responded some to timing and with a fairly aggressive approach I've managed to get it not to knock once the car is hot. I have no idea at this point how much is phantom knock but I have less than half a tank so I might try turning down the boost and running some e85 or I can run some 110oct if I find out that it isn't leaded.
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Old Jun 1, 2009 | 07:48 PM
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[
Originally Posted by Mattjin
A multimeter with a continuity buzzer will do that much quicker.
that works to verify that i have injector 1 hooked up to cylinder 1 but makes it kind of hard to tell if the injectors are firing in the correct order while the car is running.

Originally Posted by fostytou
Silly question, have you replaced your DSM knock sensor with an Evo one? I believe they respond differently.

Using det cans can also see if your knock is real or not, then you can adjust your knock tables accordingly.
det cans? refresh my memory if you don't mind.

Originally Posted by the_mork
Can't we just use evoscan to activate injectors and listen for clicking to find the right ones? If it is too hard to tell where the clicking comes from we could unplug every injector but one and then just hit each button until it clicks.

Then we just have to double check ignition events which is a 50/50 shot that should be pretty obvious if we have it right/wrong.


No, AFAIK no one doing this swap has changed the knock sensor. I'm not sure how different they are but it is something to look into.

My knock has responded some to timing and with a fairly aggressive approach I've managed to get it not to knock once the car is hot. I have no idea at this point how much is phantom knock but I have less than half a tank so I might try turning down the boost and running some e85 or I can run some 110oct if I find out that it isn't leaded.
that would also work to ensure that injector 1 is on cylinder 1 or what ever cylinder we want it on. but like i said it makes it kind of hard to tell if they are firing in the correct order. remember a lot of us are running an inverted CAS with the EVO8 ecu. i have been thinking about this a bit lately, with the injectors and coils hooked up as they were from the factory my car wouldn't start. i switched the firing order of the coils and the car started and ran, O.K. it would cruse alright but still 100% minor studder then under boost it would hesitate above 4000 rpm. i would say it ran about a 7 out of 10. then i swapped the injectors, basically 1 + 2, 3 + 4 it ran a lot better. now my question is while that might be the correct order for the ignition (we only have a 50/50 shot at getting that right), how do i know i don't still have two injectors firing well before they are suppose to, i.e. 1 revolution before the camshaft is meant to open. i can change the injectors and ignition from 1342 to 3421, but the camshaft will still stay 1342. just trying to figure out if what we are doing is truly the right thing.
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