The timing is not aggressive at all... What about in rows 1130-1150, that is another spot that consistently has knock (usually more, not so much in this log).

 

It looks like your knock is mostly happening when boost comes on (100ish load). Go in the "Knock Load" table and adjust it to read knock under higher loads.

For example....I have my Knock Load table set for 2500 RPM and up to be 100.

Then to decrease the knock decay (time that the ECU holds a knock reading) decrease the "Knock Sum Decay Timer" to 80 (half of what is stock).

The issues you are seeng with big cams will get worse as you put in more mods. Especially when you put in hard motor mounts.

One other thing to consider is that your timing jumps from cell to cell are too great. These big jumps can induce phantom knock. Try making the timing and fuel tables as smooth as possible. The ECU won't have to interpolate between large gaps then. The end result will be a smoother, more powerful car.

 

I appreciate the help. Yea I try to keep the timing map smooth, but around boost is generally where there are big jumps anyway... I'll have to try this tonight.

 

Here's another log... This is with the knock load at 100 above 2500.

Also, I smoothed the map some by adding timing where I took a bunch out trying to remove the knock and it didn't get worse.

I wish I had some 100 octance around me....

 

From what I can see the knock looks much better. You are getting 1s and 2s here or there and they mostly occur when you have throttle position change and around 4K rpm.

Check for something ratteling, like you exhaust on the cross braces. I say this because the throttle transitions may be inducing the knock because of engine movement causing something to rattle which is being read as knock.

Good news is that everything is much better and timing isn't being pulled.

Can you log AFR? I ask because you may be getting a lean spot around 4K. Your timing isn't really agressive enough to be causing knock.

 

I'll take a look for something rattling...

I have a AEM UEGO and wired up the serial port connector and it'll read it for about 5-10 seconds then stop. I have checked the wiring, rewired, moved the ground... But i did read that some people have had this problem with version 2.6, so I'm trying to get ahold of 2.5 and see if that fixes it. If its not the evoscan version I'm thinking that it might be the 12V that I have for the guage.

AFR is usually ~12.5 around 4k and 100 load and below 12 at 140 load if I remember correctly...lol I need that wideband to log.

 

PM'd

 

Ok so I said **** the small counts of knock and I started to lean it out because its been running rich all over. Previously it was 10.7~10.9 at WOT and full boost, so I leaned it out to about 11.4 for now and went up a couple of points elsewhere. I saw no increase in knock...

False knock?

 

Rich knock... running to rich can cause knock sometimes!

 

^^ Very true but I don't think it was that rich.... I wish I could get my wideband to log!!

 

It's the cams. I went through denial after installing them too. "Must be a bad tank of gas... Must be a bit too much ignition timing... Must be vibrations... Must be too rich... Must be too lean."

Dial back the cam timing and it will go away, at least that's what I did.

 

What springs and retainers are you using?

 

Closest 100 octane is a ways away so I have access to 110 leaded gas... will throwing a few gallons of it in my car hurt anything?

Just thinking about it, wouldn't a few gallons of E85 do the same thing?

 

E85 requires 20-30% more fuel, so the car needs a significant retune in order to run properly... otherwise you'll run very lean, so don't do that

Adding 110 isn't bad. You'll probably run a bit richer because most pump gas is 10% ethanol and 110 is just gasoline, but that's ok

 

Alright, I just don't want to hurt my wideband... I wouldn't think a few gallons would harm it.