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Old Jul 9, 2009 | 12:17 AM
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Electrical Q: quick ground question

Hi Guys,

Firstly - sorry I keep having to post off topic, but the innovate forums are pretty low traffic

This is in relation to the LC1 install:

Can I run a SINGLE dedicated ground wire (say 12AWG) FROM my ECU ground point (or a spot near to the ECU ground on the chassis) to my heater AND signal wire?

OR must both signal and heater wires be SEPARATE until they get to the lug bolted to the chassis?

The more I think about this the more I assume that they need to be seperate - I mean the heater clicking on/off would cause a current change on the combined ground wire - which the signal part of the LC1 wouldn't like!

Thoughts?

Cheers
David
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Old Jul 9, 2009 | 12:28 AM
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Hrmm from the "Ground offsets 101" thread on innovate forums

This is also the reason the LC-1 has different grounds for heater (large current) and system/analog out ground. The potential ground offsets created by the heater current when they are connected together can create its own problems. By connecting the heater ground to the same grounding metal as the rest you will minimize that effect. Therefore the best way is to ground the LC-1’s heater to the same area as the other grounds, but on a seperate bolt/lug. The contact points of bolts and lugs can account for 75-80% of the resistance of the connection and can change dramatically when corrosion sets in.
So yes, I should use separate ground wires for both the heater/system wires. Otherwise the heater behaviour will affect the system.

Unless of course I could have a single ground wire so THICK and SHORT that the resistance was effectively 0 Ohms

Last edited by tephra; Jul 9, 2009 at 12:41 AM.
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Old Jul 9, 2009 | 05:55 AM
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sell it and buy a uego

Sorry, i can't help with this.
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Old Jul 9, 2009 | 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by tephra
Hrmm from the "Ground offsets 101" thread on innovate forums



So yes, I should use separate ground wires for both the heater/system wires. Otherwise the heater behaviour will affect the system.

Unless of course I could have a single ground wire so THICK and SHORT that the resistance was effectively 0 Ohms
A single fat wire (my though is 10 awg) will work fine if you solder everything up.
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Old Jul 9, 2009 | 09:15 AM
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you should never solder wiring in a automotive application
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Old Jul 9, 2009 | 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by leecavturbo
you should never solder wiring in a automotive application
I completely disagree.
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Old Jul 9, 2009 | 10:36 AM
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From: Lattitude 48.38°, Longitude 17.58°, Altitude 146m = Slovakia, for common dude
+1
How do mitsu creates ECU without soldering?
But I believe you wanted to say be carefull what temperature soldering can withstand, I would agree on that.

Back to the topic: grounding of heater(power) has to have less or equal resistance than the sensor signal grounding. Then you should be OK.

Last edited by acamus; Jul 9, 2009 at 10:38 AM.
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Old Jul 9, 2009 | 11:50 AM
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Hey tephra, the seperate ground isn't super important, only for ground offset voltage. Mine has been wired all grounds to 1 without any problems. I used the radio ground, which is the same as grounding to the dash frame. No difference in afr readings with it grounded this way
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Old Jul 9, 2009 | 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by MR Turco
I completely disagree.
you may. but it is an industry wide implimented practice.
I don't think there is 1 main stream manufacturer that solders any joints in wiring looms.
its well discussed and documented
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Old Jul 9, 2009 | 12:53 PM
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that doesn't mean it doesn't work. I have never had any issues with any solder joints. The only time i have found soldering an issue is when dealing with O2 sensors.

Any splice can cause cause resistance issues but i assume solder, when done properly, would cause the least resistance.

And, i absolutely have seen factory solder jobs in my sentra. They are terrible.
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Old Jul 9, 2009 | 07:47 PM
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Klaus says to use seperate grounds. I at first used one then changed to two both connected to the engine block.
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Old Jul 9, 2009 | 08:29 PM
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I used the ecu ground wires as a ground point for the small gauge system wires and the chassis as a ground for the heater ground. All the wires tie in behind the glove box. And yes they are soldered into the main loom. Its a permanent install Did it right the first time. No problems almost 2 years later. Just let the sensor warm up before starting the engine!!!
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Old Jul 15, 2009 | 05:08 AM
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From: Lattitude 48.38°, Longitude 17.58°, Altitude 146m = Slovakia, for common dude
tephra to overcome LC-1 grounding problems, maybe one can use Bosch CJ110 instead, OEM 0272230640, 0272230345 .
I believe they know their sensors better than any WB controller manufacturer. Then one could wire it in to ADC pin and implement ADC/AFR table conversion within the ECU - no need of serial communication for any purpose anymore.

Last edited by acamus; Aug 16, 2009 at 12:26 PM.
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