I just put on a catback now im back to getting knock in the same cells as i was before, than i set the knock mutiplier tables higher and was knock free. I set the tables higher because i was almost positive that the "knock" wasnt real that i have bad lifter tick which caused the ecu to read as knock. So does this confirm that the knock isnt real? Sense the catback is louder and vibrates? I was going to set the tables higher in the low and mid rpm but dont wanna hurt the motor.

 

i dont know about ur old problem. where was your knock previously?

i have a TBE and my car vibrates like hell but i have no spontaneous/phantom knock. is ur knock sensor loose?

 

Make sure its not rattling against the body

 

The only way to tell is with Det cans or some other confirmation that it is real knock. Check for rubbing/hitting on the body/engine.

You should do that before changing any of the multiplier settings in the first place because it is not at all unlikely that it is real knock.

 

add race gas if its real knock it will go away

 

multiplier is the last thing that should be changed. Unless you are absolutely sure it is false knock i would change the knock values. You are essentially removing your safety net.

Let me know if you need a hand tuning/logging. I am also in MA.

 

the first time i tryed lowering the timing and adding gas but it did do anything. I did the same thing this time with no luck. The cat back vibrates alot added to that i have prothane motor mounts and my car vibrates like i have a big block in it, then to top it off i have very bad lifter tick.

 

No matter what the timing or arf are im getting 36knock in 60-80loads 2500-3000rpm which is where the lifter tick is the worst. The car will studer, but if i set the mutiplier high the car drives fine no studer in those areas because the cars not pulling timing.

 

For the second time add a gallon race gas to the tank and see if it goes away. Your motor is higher compression than an evo. I'm betting it's real knock.

 

i had the afr down below 10 and it still was saying 36 knock with timing from 10-24adv it doesnt go away, or change its always 36 count

 

I know us guys running the Evo Ecu in our 2g DSMs had to adjust the low multiplier. There was no way around it.

Stock 2g DSM fuel and ignition maps - didn't help
93 or better gas - didn't help
fixing exhaust leaks and lifter tick - didn't help
swaping to an evo 8 knock sensor - didn't help

After that, we (about 4 or 5 of us) felt pretty confident that it was just phantom knock. I think my low multiplier is now at about 24. And yes, real knock still sets it off. I had quite the light show while messing with the MAF tables one day.

I don't know how cooperative you 3g guys are. There's just a handful of us on DSMTuners messing with the 2g. We share pretty much every test and result. Different maps, different roms, different mods to roms, etc.