Cant wait till i get the part in, dealership said monday, as the motor has over 300miles on it now so im gonna turn up the boost to 18psi till it has 500miles on it then time for kill mod, 27-28psi on 93.

 

Ok well i put the new fuel pump grommet in. Did a quick pull at 12psi everything looked good so i turned up the boost to 15psi. The run went good couple counts of knock, tuned the timing to get rid of the knock and turned down the fuel some as i was hitting ~10.0afr. Went back to my "closed road" and was about to do another pull when a sti pulls up next to me, so i figured well i was gonna do a pull anyways so why not. Anyways i went 4.5-7k in 2nd and when i shifted to 3rd i got crazy knock and the car sputtered bad so i let off. But i can go do 2nd, 3rd , and 4th gear pulls and no knock? Im thinking its phantom knock cause by the hard shifts and **** rattling around in the engine bay. Any thoughts?

My thinking is tune the car by doing 3rd and 4th gear pulls then turn up the knock tables in mid and high rpm. But only do that after im sure theres no real knock in 3rd and 4th gear pulls.

 

May be shift knock as well... take out timing in the area where your shift points are

 

I wouldn't raise the knock tables, but rather raise the value where the engine knock is utilized.

In the "Knock Load" table raise the values as follows....
500-2000 rpm = 159.4
2500 = 100
3000 = 100
The rest = 95

This will eliminate "shift knock" as the engine load will drop lower than these values, but you still have the up side protection of the car pulling timing when it sees knock under boost/high load conditions.

 

Applaud, I don't mean to thread jack, but I do have a question about that. When you are changing the values in the Knock Load table, is it saying 2500 rpm=100 (load). So at 2500rpm, only look for knock at boost? In Ecu Flash, it is labeled at % so I'm getting confused.

 

It is a scaled variation of load. Just know that raising the value raises the threshold for knock to be read and used by the ECU.

 

So i believe the "shift knock" is because my tps is broken. That might even be cause some other weird problems i have. So i ordered i new one yesterday. I just checked my idc% and before at 15psi the idc was 95% with the ripped fuel pump grommet, with the new grommet at 15psi the idc is 81% with sub 10afr. I just got another walbro as i think the one i had was going bad so well see what happens when i put in the "new" walbro and tps.

 

Umm i just was messing around with a few things an decide to see how much voltage the injectors are getting. Well all 4 injectors are only getting 5.8 volts with a key in the on position, the battery is at 12.2 volts. What would cause this?

 

That would be the resistor box... I would assume...

 

i thought the resister box was just to make more resistant not cut the voltage?

 

shouldnt the injectors be getting 12-14 volts?

 

I cant find anywhere how many volts the injectors should be getting. Anyone?

 

VDR says i have 301/313 at 15.5psi with idc peaking at 76%. Sound good? Thats with no tuning, was just my first pull. Got 2 counts of knock and afr dipped below 11 at 5k and went to below 10 by 6.9k. Ill post a screen shot of the log and vdr, soon. Now its time to tune, Im thinking 330/340 should be within reason at 15psi, dynojet settings.

 

Heres the vdr + log. I adjusted the fuel an going to do another log shortly.

And yes i changed all the info in vdr to reflect a my car, gear ratios, tire height, drag eff...

 

Heres the knock i was talking about, i did a 3rd gear pull and when i shift to 4th this happens, i get constant 27counts of knock when i try to shift at WOT.