Rear Dimister
Rear Dimister
Hey Guys,
Ive got my car idling well with my S2's in, the AC idle is near perfect im stocked.
Any way now its colder here in AUS ive been using my rear dimister, this causes the idle to drop, i cant find anywhere that i can change to resolve this.
Any help is appreciated.
Ive got my car idling well with my S2's in, the AC idle is near perfect im stocked.
Any way now its colder here in AUS ive been using my rear dimister, this causes the idle to drop, i cant find anywhere that i can change to resolve this.
Any help is appreciated.
id venture to guess your first problem sounds like voltage. have you inspected your charging system and battery? if something with a relatively minor amperage draw does that than what happens when all of your fans are on full blast or your head lights are on? your eld is probably sensing a load already because of your low battery voltage and tells your alternator to put out even more so if your alternators bearings are on the verge of seizing and/or your idle is too low then the engine struggles. check with the techs here and make sure your idle settings in your ecu's rom are correct. thats probably it.
btw...what is a "dimister"?
btw...what is a "dimister"?
Demister sorry (defogger)
My idle is around 850-950rpm, my headlights are always on and the car has only 60000kms on it, so im not to sure about the alternator being on the way out.
The car runs fine with the A/C load.
The car also dies a little when i use the electric windows too
My idle is around 850-950rpm, my headlights are always on and the car has only 60000kms on it, so im not to sure about the alternator being on the way out.
The car runs fine with the A/C load.
The car also dies a little when i use the electric windows too
def. a battery/alternator problem. The electrical load puts extra load on your accesory pulley which kills the already low torque/rpm idle. Try the easy thing first - replace the battery. If that doesn't work replace the alternator. I guarantee this will fix it.
The window motors and defogger are very high current electrical loads. This will have nothing to do with the A/C because when your AC kicks on your car adds fuel for the added load. Your car has no way of knowing when your defrost or windows are activated (in the fueling routines) so it won't add fuel for the increased electrical load. Additionally if your voltage drops and your injectors aren't dailed in correctly then your pulsewidth drops and the car dies. No matter what the situation the solution is A. Battery B. alternator.
The window motors and defogger are very high current electrical loads. This will have nothing to do with the A/C because when your AC kicks on your car adds fuel for the added load. Your car has no way of knowing when your defrost or windows are activated (in the fueling routines) so it won't add fuel for the increased electrical load. Additionally if your voltage drops and your injectors aren't dailed in correctly then your pulsewidth drops and the car dies. No matter what the situation the solution is A. Battery B. alternator.
Last edited by honki24; May 26, 2010 at 07:35 AM.
i highly recommend changing alternator and battery together, to avoid any complications rare as they may be. Check for loose cables and poor grounds- those, however, are not uncommon at all. You'd be surprised.
So this is def seeming to be an issue with battery/Alternator.
Its funny because before i got my tactrix cable i used a repco scan tool and the first time i used it, it indicated my battery was low.
Is it best to get the alternator looked at, instead of replacing?
Its funny because before i got my tactrix cable i used a repco scan tool and the first time i used it, it indicated my battery was low.
Is it best to get the alternator looked at, instead of replacing?
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In the USA we have places like Autozone or Napa that can test alternators and batteries if you bring them into the store. Before you replace either, have them tested to make sure they are bad or you could be wasting money.
Something else you can do is to use a multimeter and check voltages at the battery (while the car is running) before and after you turn on the demister/defogger. If it drops from say 14 volts down to 11-12, then there is definitely an issue, perhaps with the alternator and/or battery. Also you can check voltage while starting the car at the battery. If it starts at around 12.5-13 volts and drops down to 10-11 volts that could be an issue with the battery. Of course be careful with doing this as not to blow off a thumb or something.
Lastly, the suggestions of checking for bad cables and grounds is great advice, check those as well even if you find out the alternator and/or battery has gone bad.
Dan
Something else you can do is to use a multimeter and check voltages at the battery (while the car is running) before and after you turn on the demister/defogger. If it drops from say 14 volts down to 11-12, then there is definitely an issue, perhaps with the alternator and/or battery. Also you can check voltage while starting the car at the battery. If it starts at around 12.5-13 volts and drops down to 10-11 volts that could be an issue with the battery. Of course be careful with doing this as not to blow off a thumb or something.
Lastly, the suggestions of checking for bad cables and grounds is great advice, check those as well even if you find out the alternator and/or battery has gone bad.
Dan




