Timing vs MPG (Closed Loop)
The 185 is just the rom version I'm at (yea, I reflash my car a lot!) and fuel is what I changed in that rom version. It's just a coincidence. 
I was expecting better with the lean closed loop too, I could do 28mpg when I was at 14.7 closed loop too. What I did notice though is that AFR fluctuates more when I'm using the ZT-2 output (normal since it's farther away than the stock o2), so I'm wondering if that fluctuation might have something to do with mileage not getting much better.
EDIT: yes I do have EGR and I'm running stock sized tires.

I was expecting better with the lean closed loop too, I could do 28mpg when I was at 14.7 closed loop too. What I did notice though is that AFR fluctuates more when I'm using the ZT-2 output (normal since it's farther away than the stock o2), so I'm wondering if that fluctuation might have something to do with mileage not getting much better.
EDIT: yes I do have EGR and I'm running stock sized tires.
Wow great thread. I tried talking about stuff like this almost a year ago and had no interest.
I have been out of my Evo for almost 10 weeks now since breaking my left foot in 3 places. I just got the cast off and I'm almost ready to drive the car again.
I had found that higher timing with new plugs was the way to go. Tire pressure and shift points also had an effect.
My BOV is adjustable between 100% recirc and 100% VTA. I found that even though I was set to 100% recirc, a tiny bit of air was venting to the atmosphere. I cleaned the BOV and took it apart. Wow what a difference.
As for acceleration I found that completely ignoring the Turbo didn't provide as much mileage as I thought it would. My best mileage was with medium acceleration with just a small bit of spool from the turbo.
Holding gears out to around 3200rpm worked really well for me. I always found that at cruise speed I could back off the gas just a hair more and it would make a big difference. By running higher timing at the exact load you reach when gently backing off the gas I found that speed didn't fall.
So basically I was able to slightly raise efficiency at the exact point where I'd start to lose speed and be required to increase throttle. I too found that leaner AFRs only helps cruise if you don't modulate the throttle. Otherwise at slower cruise speeds like 40mph it's better to stay rich believe it or not and back off the throttle instead.
I was monitoring the TPS value for consistent cruise at 40mph and 75mph (the two speeds I cruise at for city/highway) and doing everything I could to keep the same speed with less throttle.
The other idea I had was to play with the Alternator charge tables. You really don't need the field to stay engaged all the time. You can hollow out a small area of the alternator field map and basically regain some losses from the alternator. I was pondering a patch to shut off the alternator at WOT when voltage is above 12.7. Never got around to it though since I have been busy writing map tracing software.
Do you guys think I could help out by adding any features to the map tracer that would help when tracking mileage? Let me know if that's something I could assist with.
I have been out of my Evo for almost 10 weeks now since breaking my left foot in 3 places. I just got the cast off and I'm almost ready to drive the car again.
I had found that higher timing with new plugs was the way to go. Tire pressure and shift points also had an effect.
My BOV is adjustable between 100% recirc and 100% VTA. I found that even though I was set to 100% recirc, a tiny bit of air was venting to the atmosphere. I cleaned the BOV and took it apart. Wow what a difference.
As for acceleration I found that completely ignoring the Turbo didn't provide as much mileage as I thought it would. My best mileage was with medium acceleration with just a small bit of spool from the turbo.
Holding gears out to around 3200rpm worked really well for me. I always found that at cruise speed I could back off the gas just a hair more and it would make a big difference. By running higher timing at the exact load you reach when gently backing off the gas I found that speed didn't fall.
So basically I was able to slightly raise efficiency at the exact point where I'd start to lose speed and be required to increase throttle. I too found that leaner AFRs only helps cruise if you don't modulate the throttle. Otherwise at slower cruise speeds like 40mph it's better to stay rich believe it or not and back off the throttle instead.
I was monitoring the TPS value for consistent cruise at 40mph and 75mph (the two speeds I cruise at for city/highway) and doing everything I could to keep the same speed with less throttle.
The other idea I had was to play with the Alternator charge tables. You really don't need the field to stay engaged all the time. You can hollow out a small area of the alternator field map and basically regain some losses from the alternator. I was pondering a patch to shut off the alternator at WOT when voltage is above 12.7. Never got around to it though since I have been busy writing map tracing software.
Do you guys think I could help out by adding any features to the map tracer that would help when tracking mileage? Let me know if that's something I could assist with.
^^ Thanks for the sharing. Many people will say its a "performance car" get a civic, but what is a C6 ZO6 with a 7.2 L V8 and the owners reporting 27+ mpg? And we have a 2.0 i4 ?
Well anyways, updated the first post with another ignition map and it resulted at 23.9 mpg all city driving. I'm going to do another round on the same map to confirm the possible improvement.
I understand its not the best testing because of the many different variables such as changing traffic conditions, weather, road rage lol etc... but its what I can do for now. And doing more rounds of testing on a single map will take too long to get results so I am limiting it to 2 tests per rom.
Well anyways, updated the first post with another ignition map and it resulted at 23.9 mpg all city driving. I'm going to do another round on the same map to confirm the possible improvement.
I understand its not the best testing because of the many different variables such as changing traffic conditions, weather, road rage lol etc... but its what I can do for now. And doing more rounds of testing on a single map will take too long to get results so I am limiting it to 2 tests per rom.
Here's my timing map. As mentionned earlier, 21-24 mpg city and ~28 mpg highway. I'm also running 15.5 AFR in closed loop with my ZT-2's narrowband switchpoint.
Raptord for the win!

Nice thread.
Edit:
Also, to answer the obvious question about why maps are cut off since some of you ask, its since the part of the map that deals with gas economy, and dail cruise, is what is exposed, the rest is boost and race maps...Though, if you read the thread her I put out, you will realize that My maps, with 1000 plus hours of OCD tuning, over 500 revisions, is some where around here all over the place. I know that may sound offensive to some of you, and conceeted to the rest, or what not, but I meen know offense, soon I will post my entire map for download. Here is why, these maps are tuned for our specific vehicles and our specific mods, so at best, a fullly visible boost map, timing map, or afr map, is a horshue, hand grenade, or nuclear bomb at best... meening, its close but not a heet seeking missle. So, either way, you alos have to have similiar mods, etc, so without a shopping list of parts like most of you in your sigs, your not exactlu sure what I am running on, and my map just gives a you over view in my opinion. Again controversial, open, and no offense intendeded to anyone, tuners or privateers, just an observation.
Again, nice thread.


Last edited by Raceghost; Oct 7, 2011 at 12:55 AM.
Easiest way to check if your changes had an effect is to use the mpg parameter on evoscan. It calculates mileage directly off IDC and scaling vs your speed. So find a stretch of road that you can keep making passes on while tweaking whatever you want.
(Not to be confused with slow responding O2s or people running simulated NBO2 through their wideband. Both cause oscillation as well.)
True, and you can control it to a point, that us better than factory. Think of the functionality of a cruise control, it is to hold the throttle steady to keep speed and m,omentum balance, to reduce drag on the car, for better efficiancy. When Im in my race maps, or even prior to being tuned, my AF's ocillated approx +-1.0, that a full point or ten scales up and down. At that rate, there are several calculations in the ecu that adjust, and trigger different responses. WHat im getting at, is at 80 mph, in 5th gear, spool is a breath away in spool time. With that, comes richer, or leaner AFR's if you use lean spool. Well that burns gas, and boost really burns gas. So if you can get your AFR's and wastegate dialed in, you in change keep from burning gas in cruise by running more efficiant.
Last edited by Raceghost; Oct 8, 2011 at 02:36 AM.
Where is that parameter in evoscan?




