that's very wierd, it's almost impossible flashing cel of knock at idle. because it must meet certain load threshold to trigger cel on knock. 80 or 100 load as I remember. check that table and see what's in there.

 

And you never answered the question about what knock sensoryour running.

Some logs would definitely help as well...

To reply about your previous post. You kept saying you just loaded the tephra maps and went
So that is the reason I said what I said. So it take it for what its worth.

Anyways, have fun figuring out.

 

The OEM knock sensing is based on frequency or pitch, not volume, similar to a tuning fork. To minimize false reading, each cyl has a small window of active monitoring during the respective stroke (probably a few degrees BTDC to when to when the exhaust valves open) and then there's a bunch of filtering on top of that. The accuracy is depends a huge amount on being 100% OEM. Add an exhaust system, cams - it changes the harmonics and offsets the built in knock tune significantly. Now if you change an entire car you can expect it to not work right. Not saying parts are not loose and about to give way, just pointing out the system will be unreliable.

See if racing gas changes the readings your getting, if not, then ...?

 

The knock control is actually based on the corrected and filltered noise in the det frequency ( likely an FFT DSP) exceeding the base engine noise, so amplitued ( volume as it were) does indded play a part. You can change the baseline noise threashold with the knock multipliers and adders. I have a fully built engine and the knock control works fine with a very small tweak. Try tuning the knock perameters first before dissmissing the stock knock system.

 

Mine works fine too. Usually 1 to 3 episodes of several counts every other pull. It has not behaved much differently throughout the 7 years I have been logging this car. However, I trust it at about 60%.

 

It gets worse as--

The power goes up
Built motor
Rattles on the car
Knock sensor degrades
Revs go up past 7k
Exhaust dumps/O2 dumps/etc.

 

My knock sensor settings are all tweaked, but I have the tephra EVO rom with a completely different engine. Det cans is one way to rule out knock, race gas is another. Once it's ruled out, then you tweak it, but not before that, otherwise you just have to buy a new engine (if you turn knock sensor off).

There is also the multipliers, low middle and high rpm ranges, but I forget when they swap over. Either way, see if it's RPM dependant, and make sure one of them isn't rediculously low for some reason.

 

I see the sensitivity multipliers and someone said to change it like 10%, but when I go to change percentage, nothing happens. The rom doesn't register any change and I Can continuously change it and nothing happens. However I can actually change the count.

I'm running a Stock 2g dsm knock sensor. Which I've been running since I started using the Evo8 ECU. And we had it tuned into the 560's and 20g at 22psi on 91 pump and it never knocked before. It only recently started to just randomly register. And it mainly.... Cannot stress this enough "MAINLY" under little to no positive load. Saying as in when I pull out of my driveway and accelerate in my residential neighborhood. It hardly ever knocks when I lay the pedal down and boost climbs. And if it does, its only 3 or so counts under heavy load.

I figured it was my lifters, BUT under anything higher than idle oil pressure they don't tick. You can have your ear on the valve cover at idle listening to the one bad lifter tick, and touch the throttle just a tad and it instantly stops.

I've been trying to find something loose, like transfercase or transmission bolts. The only thing I can really say, is my IC Pipes are touching the radiator support, but they are wedged and the sound will have to travel through the rubber couplers to each pipe to reach the intake manifold.

I think I might just have a bad knock sensor. Since it started randomly and just got worse.

 

Well since you suspect the knock sensor being bad and numerous people have said you need to run the Stock Evo8 knock sensor with the evo8 ecu I would just but a new evo8 knock sensor. It rules out a few possible issues.

To answer your question on modifying your knock tables...not that I think you should go this route.... I would take the value you want and to reduce it by 10% multiply it by 90. If you want to increase it by 10% multiply it by 1.1 then you want to input your new value. Take the value 100 for example (makes the math easy to understand) I want to decrease it by 10% so I multiply by 0.90 i get surprise...90. So go back to the cell with the value you want to change and hit the = button. a box will come up with the current value highlighted, you change the value to your new desired and hit enter. Now be aware that it may automatically adjust the number to the nearest value weather its slightly higher or lower. There are a finite amount of values that can be entered because of the bit word length in the ecu.

Again tread lightly with modifying you knock control. Ive been battling similar knock issues as yours for years...literally. Im also super busy with other things and take forever to do things on the evo these days.

Good luck

 

Yeah I don't wanna mess with the knock control. See Nobody in the DSM world has said anything about needing to run the Evo8 Knock Sensor. I do figure that it would be best to run the Evo8 MAF and Knock Sensor for a cleaner transition. But Nobody says to do so. There is one how to on the Evo8 conversion that says eventually knock settings will have to be messed with. But just don't get how I didn't have issues till later on.

But I am ordering a Evo8 Knock sensor now.