Hopefully that cylinder isn't damaged from the broken plug. I'd do a leak down test. Also, do a boost leak check while you're at it.

 

well got new plugs in, sounded a little better but still has the same issue... if it was a bad fpr wouldn't their be no different effect from just cranking normally compared to with full throttle? i can get her to turn over and run very rough if i give it a lot of gas but just misfires the entire time. my poor car :`(

 

Start checking your motor, leak down, compression test. The works. If the piece of that plug went through your motor it could be done.

 

im starting to think that that piece of the plug is stuck in a valve or something..

 

Looks very rich along with some really bad detonation

 

Any new updates on the leak down or compression tests?

 

i need to order a leakdown test kit once i get payed tomorrow. but got a great look inside the cylinder and didnt see any damage on the walls or around the valves besides a few pits on the piston where it bounced around a few times. but still plan on doing compression test once i get the gear.

I pulled a FPR circuit malfunction code so im praying its just the regulator. im trying to get a decent priced used fpr but the only ones i can find are off evo 8s. when i called the dealer they told me their is different regulators for early 9s and late 9s. does anyone know if their is any difference? i really dont want to have to screw with a aftermarket FPR with the tuning issues i already have but starting to think it mite just be easier then ordering a evo8 fpr and have it not work.

 

well i swapped out my fpr and that didnt change anything and still getting a code for the FPR. i did notice tho that my starter is going out, i had to give it a few good smacks for it to turn... never had a single problem with my fpr, starter, ext. up until this point and all of a sudden everything goes out at once, when it rains it pours lol... does anyone know if their is any sort of control unit for the FPR that could have gone bad? if my FPR is good what else could be throwing a code for it?

I know this whole issue has something to do with that FPR code and fuel in general. if the car sits for over a day and i try starting it it will turn over after the second crank and run for about 3-4 seconds (running very rough the entire time) then sounds like its starves out of fuel and just dies. if you try to start it after the first stall it just cranks and cranks unless you floor the gas pedal.

also the leak-down tester still has not arrived so haven't been able to get that test done..

ugg i just want my car back...

 

On the end of the intake manifold is the fuel pressure regulator solenoid. If you threw a code then that's probably what needed replaced.

 

thats the first thing i did and didnt fix the problem. ive gotten the car to run without stalling now. found a vacuum line that popped off. so the car runs without stalling now but runs so damn rough and misfiring contiguously... im getting so damn tired of this, i cant find anything wrong. to make maters even worse due to my car having to sit yet another yellow top battery is destroyed and now cant even get my pos ecu to read cuz it demands 14v... i swear the evo ecu voltage crap has to be the most obnoxious drawback.

 

See I'm on a tight budget (my job doesn't pay enough ) and I just got my stock 8MR. I know one of the first mods to get is the 3port solenoid and I'm getting a Wally fuel pump to go with it. To save money on tuning, EvoScan is the way to go and test and learn on my own. But it's issues like this that frighten me!! I'm subscribing to this to keep updated and I hope it works out for you champ. If I see anything similar on the Australian Evo forum with a solution, I'll post it up right away!

Good luck mate!

 

Well made some headway on finding a few major problems. first off i finally got a compression gauge and while pulling my plugs to test each cylinder guess what i found!

this was wedged in cylinder 4s plug! not even stuck in their good, just resting between the plugs gap. its the tip to cylinder 1s plug, i was amazed to see that it was still in my motor after all this time. when i pulled the plug i noticed that it had no deposits on it what so ever compared to the 3 other black tipped plugs. after noticing that checked for spark and it was good. then for the worst news of all... have zero compression on number 4...

decided to pull the valve cover off to see if i could see any difference in valves and found this floating in my head!!


its like a tiny spring to a valve guide or some sort of seal possibly? does anyone recognize it and know where it mite have came from??

im assuming i have a valve not seating correctly from that damn plug tip... anyone have any ideas? ive been saving for my shep trans to replace my **** 4 speed trans haha but looks like i mite have to use that money for a head rebuild..

 

dont be worried about doing it yourself, just take your time and spend plenty of time on this forum and you will be set **** happens, im surprised my car made it to 70k with no major problems with how much is done to it. but i think this entire issue im having is all related to the tephra v7 flash i was trying to dial in... i have had nothing but bad luck with that rom, after this entire ordeal im ready just to pay someone for a quality v7 tune.

 

So it's safe to say that the title of this thread should be, Self tuning problems and not to blame the grimmspeed or omni map sensor. Sucks that you had to learn the hard way. This is why tuners get paid the big bucks.

 

Oh trust me, I've been digging through this forum, the UK forum and the local Aussie forum for all sorts of things! I guess starting off with the basic EvoScan or EcuFlash to get me going and see how we go. But from your discoveries, it looks like everything will get back on track