I've been chasing my tail on this one. I'm having warm start issues and the car will randomly stall. There was an instance where the car was idling at max rich on the wideband so I shut it off and restarted and it started to idle normally around 14.7.

attached are my scaling and latencies. Also cranking vs coolant temp, alternate cranking ipw, post cranking enrich...

Won't start unless I hold throttle down. Tried decreasing cranking ipw in the warmer temps, nothing.

Trims are low: -0.7 and mid: -4.6.
o2 feedback hangs around the trims but randomly will jump to around +25...


Mods:
TBE
Intake
Greddy bov VTA
MBC
FIC 1650
Wally 255
E85


EDIT: Upon looking at logs I noticed battery level never goes above 13.95v but the turbo timer voltage reads 14.2 and I was going off that. Would it be advised to go back and adjust latencies under the 14v area?

Quite frustrating as I was able to scale fic 1450's in 30 minutes but these are being a PITA or am I missing something...

 

are these the old or new fic 1650s? the old ones which are a completely different design from the new ones, were very problematic and quickly discontinued.

 

I question your O2 sensor if your LTFT are what they are and then it spikes to +25%, general indicator of it being bad. I have had 1650 cars that start perfect and then others that require a little foot action to get them to work. I would add some cranking enrichment back in (1-2usec) and then drop 9v latency by 0.250 to start.

 

I was hoping to get a reply from both of you.

MrFred - How would I know if these are the old vs new? They were purchased the beginning of this year from extremepsi.

JohnBradley - Thank you for the tip, I'll try that out asap and check back. Its actually the o2 feedback trim that jumps to +25.

I've also got only 10-14 vacuum at idle so I'll check for leaks. Thank you ! ����

 

Yeah I know what you meant, thats why I said that the O2 sensor is most likely bad. If you watch the voltage at the same time it will be stuck low or at least cycling low. I'd expect to see in the 0.0394v to .27v range.

 

Oh alright, just making sure I give you the right symptoms. I'll log o2 volt as well today. Thank you sir.

EDIT: I emailed FIC and confirmed the set is the old 1650's. Mine are blue metal and the new ones are black plastic.

So is it worth even trying or will they never have good drivability?

 

I have had good luck with them in pretty much everything I use them in. They actually tune easier than 1450s to me.

 

Okay I'll keep trying then. Decreasing 9v latency from 1.800 to 1.560 as ecuflash would't take 1.55. Also bumped alt cranking primer initial pulse from 0 to 1ms at 68* and up. Hopefully this gets it closer!

Did you have to hardwire the pump or run one of those injector boxes in the evos running these injectors?

Also I really appreciate you taking the time to help resolve this issue.

 

I attempted to tune one set on an Evo 10, and I was never able to obtain consistent flow response. In the middle of my efforts to get them working, it was determined by FIC and ID (both were selling them) that the injector flow rate is temperature sensitive.

Sounds like Aaron has tuned quite a few more sets, so it seems like its worth a shot to get them dialed in.

 

If front o2 is bad would volt randomly go from like 0.7 to 0.1 and back up? I'll attach a log.

 

I thought these were the Low Z, did I get confused?

 

These are low z. New is high z boss man.

So with the 9v bumped down a tad idles real lean. O2 feedback pegged at 25. I feel like they are very sensitive?

 

I thought these were the old high-Z. Did they ever make a low-Z 1650, e.g., a Bluemax 1650? OP, please snap a photo of the injectors or the injector card.

 

Tony, unplug the O2 sensor and see where the car idles at. M, yeah there are and were low z 1650s as well.

 

Here are the 1650 low z.